1.4 petrol poor idle issues
- Thread starter Azim
- Start date
PlasticMac
Member
There is no significant difference between the AUA Cylinder Head and Block, and the BBY. The difference is the fuel system, and the ignition system. Power output is the same.
The only way for you to have a genuine BBY engined car, is to remove the AUA you have now, buy a BBY engine, complete, and fit it.
As it did with the previous owner, getting the AUA/BBY hybrid running in your BBY car is proving to be a challenge.
That is what we're trying to do, but not very successfully, at least in my case.
Because your car is built for a fuel system with no return to tank bypass line, the BBY fuel rail has to stay. My apologies for my recent suggestion to fit an AUA rail, which might well work, but would need a new fuel line back to the tank to work, so not as good an idea as I thought.
I'm sure it can be sorted, just not sure quite how.
Maybe there is nothing wrong with the set up you have. Need to establish if there is fuel pressure at the rail, with ignition on.
Back to the basic sparks and fuel again.
Mac.
PlasticMac
Member
In retrospect, I think I have concentrated on the differences between AUA and BBY, as reasons why your setup doesn't run.
A better approach would have been to concentrate on the similarities. It should run, so what is the little difference, which is preventing that?
Your engine is almost a BBY, and if I didn't know it isn't, I'd say it is a BBY.
Mac.
A better approach would have been to concentrate on the similarities. It should run, so what is the little difference, which is preventing that?
Your engine is almost a BBY, and if I didn't know it isn't, I'd say it is a BBY.
Mac.
Joga
A2OC Donor
If you still dont find it reasonable to supply general information (as suggested in post 104) then you are limiting the possibility that you will recieve efficient help, and risk spending time chasing the wrong hen.
Over and out for now.
birtyA2
A2OC Donor
My understanding is they are the same. The differences are in the fuel system, ignition, crank case breathing and air box. It very much looks like you have the BBY fuel rail which is correct for the rest of the car and indeed the ignition is with individual coil packs now, so broadly it should run; indeed we shouldn’t loose sight of the fact it has with this configuration.
The change from rough running to not starting occurred after a change of spark plugs so I agree with other views that we should pursue the basics, are we seeing a spark, is fuel being injected. Sod’s Law doesn’t rule out a co-incidental failure of - for example - the cam sensor but, we should be able to reach this conclusion by systematic confirmation that the things needed for combustion; fuel, air and spark are present or not
I totally agree about going back to basics .
If it ran once it should run again .
I will try to confirm that we have both spark and fuel In the next couple of days .
Once I get it running as before , im sure we will be able to sort out any further issues .
Until then I thank everyone that has helped me so far .
If it ran once it should run again .
I will try to confirm that we have both spark and fuel In the next couple of days .
Once I get it running as before , im sure we will be able to sort out any further issues .
Until then I thank everyone that has helped me so far .
kp 115
A2OC Donor
Simple question did you check the fuel pipe pictured as the blue inline connector may have a non return valve fitted allowing fuel to only flow in 1 direction!
ie: maybe preventing flow, simple blow through should prove .
Hope that helps
Keith
Hi .
The blue inline connector you see was a inline connector to connect two shorter lengths of pipe ( which were frayed and hard ).This was replaced with brand ee fuel pipe of the correct length.
Im going to put a vacuam pump to the incoming fuel line this afternoon .
to see if I can pull up some fuel from the tank
There was a comment made earlier in the thread about a set of replacement plugs that someone fitted (not necessarily in this chain of events) that had a different length nose / conductive piece at the very top of the spark plug (the insinuation being that there is a dimensions change between AUA and BBY models).
Could it be that right now we've got AUA plugs where the plug connector male end isn't compatible enough with the BBY individual coil pack female end to effect reliable spark generation?
birtyA2
A2OC Donor
Yes, if it was me I would be checking for a spark from one of the new plugs and one of the old
J
I will do .
update abit later .
I've looked at the parts diagram and confirm this to be the case. On paper, plugs are identical spec whether AUA or BBY with either ignition coil solution.
Glow plug Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi 905000
glow plug Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi 905000 spare parts
I am getting a good spark when I have tested spark plug when placing near engine for earth .I've looked at the parts diagram and confirm this to be the case. On paper, plugs are identical spec whether AUA or BBY with either ignition coil solution.
Glow plug Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi 905000
glow plug Audi A2 (A2) 2003 year Audi 905000 spare partsaudi.7zap.com
The old and new spark plugs are identical in size and the marking on the plugs them selves .
How ever I have dragged out unusaully dark fuel when I used a pump to draw the fuel from the tank at the incoming fuel line to the engine bay ..
The fuel looks suspect.
I may empty the tank tomorrrow and put fresh fuel in , just in case .
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birtyA2
A2OC Donor
Wow, what on earth is that, looks more like a sample of oil that petrol. Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? A candidate for change now for sure
J
it looks like a cross between Bunker Oil and Espresso .. !
Have you tried lighting any?
As commented above, the filter may also need looking at!
PlasticMac
Member
The fuel pump and sender can be accessed from under rear seats.
You should be able to work through there.
But, be very carefull, petrol is flammable, the vapour from a spoonful can destroy your front room explosively.
Petrol vapour also displaces oxygen, so does not support life. Lots of toxins too, no skin contact. .
So, work outdoors, car doors and hatch wide open. Battery disconnected, and left a while before starting work. Vapour is heavier than air, so, minimise air movements into the tank. Don't use anything electrical to remove fuel. If in doubt, don't.
Keep any torch well clear of the tank itself.
There may be a drain plug, let's see if anyone else knows.
I worked in the petroleum industry for getting on for 45 years, petrol is deadly stuff. Please take great care.
Mac.
If there is a drain plug, despite the need to raise the car, use it, by far the safest way.
You should be able to work through there.
But, be very carefull, petrol is flammable, the vapour from a spoonful can destroy your front room explosively.
Petrol vapour also displaces oxygen, so does not support life. Lots of toxins too, no skin contact. .
So, work outdoors, car doors and hatch wide open. Battery disconnected, and left a while before starting work. Vapour is heavier than air, so, minimise air movements into the tank. Don't use anything electrical to remove fuel. If in doubt, don't.
Keep any torch well clear of the tank itself.
There may be a drain plug, let's see if anyone else knows.
I worked in the petroleum industry for getting on for 45 years, petrol is deadly stuff. Please take great care.
Mac.
If there is a drain plug, despite the need to raise the car, use it, by far the safest way.
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