1.4 TDi oil pump / balance shaft chain and chain tensioner replacement.

Thinking about @Olerype ’s observation - and that of others - it is strange that some cars that are seemingly well maintained throughout their lives need this job doing urgently after just topping 100k miles, yet others continue to run fine at twice that mileage and more - although granted they may not run quite as smoothly thanks to the balance shaft timing slipping due to wear of the components in question.

We can never be sure as to the exact cause without a lab, but the only things that would seem to vary that could affect the wear rate of these components (other than varying quality of their construction, but let’s put that aside for now seeing as factory-fit parts are QC’d fairly rigorously), are as follows:

  1. How often the oil is changed (long-life intervals or fixed; and at what mileage etc.)
  2. The oil quality and grade (although the minimum specification SHOULD be sufficient to protect these components, perhaps some oils that meet the VAG spec are better than others at this?)
  3. Car usage (I.e. Number of cold starts, is the car mainly used for shorter journeys where one would assume the oil being cold is harder on / accelerates wear to these components).
  4. Driving style (does the driver allow the engine oil to warm up before exploiting full performance and do they habitually “hold” gears or change up as soon as possible etc.).
The link that at @bretti_kivi provides makes fascinating reading as it’s effectively a registry of TDI’s that have had this work done, the mileage covered and a note of the condition of the components that are replaced: There is no tight correlation with mileage as such, which suggests something else affects the wear rate, such that the job could need doing at any point between 90 - 200k miles or so.

I wonder if any professional technicians would have more insight into possible causes.
 
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I always thought, being a fellow cyclist, that chains do stretch that is why you test your chains with a device that measures the length of chain over a certain number of links. Normally a bike chain is 12" over 12 links and 1% stretch is too much.
No they get longer because the pins wear. They probably do stretch fractionally on a tough climb but when you stop they will recover to their unloaded length.
Perhaps a bit nit picky,I’m a Mechanical Engineer.
 
Hi Phil / anyone else - I can see the Febi part number for the most complete kit of parts is 32266, however this only includes 3 out of the 4 sprockets that need to be changed for complete peace of mind - I wonder why?! - Anyway, what is the part number of the missing sprocket from this kit?

EDIT: I see that Febi did used to do a kit numbered 43667 that included all four sprockets, but due to I assume the fourth one rarely needing replacement they dropped it. FAI auto parts still makes the complete kit however I’ve not heard of them before (although reviews online are that they’re a good British supplier and no problems on their other chain kits for other vehicles).

https://www.faiauto.com/

thanks
The last time I checked for the complete kit It was not available. My own feeling though having done the job is that a chain and tensioners would have been sufficient You won’t know though until you get in there. The crank sprocket was available from Audi when I did the job. I burred my Febi sprocket, looked into a replacement, but managed to clean up the damage.
 
I always thought, being a fellow cyclist, that chains do stretch that is why you test your chains with a device that measures the length of chain over a certain number of links. Normally a bike chain is 12" over 12 links and 1% stretch is too much.

Typically you will find too much stretch on brand new chains. Try Ultegra chains.. So this check is pretty pointless for bikes at least.
 
Typically you will find too much stretch on brand new chains. Try Ultegra chains.. So this check is pretty pointless for bikes at least.
I do run Ultegra and I do have a chain gauge to identify when the chain is worn and needs replacing. The gauge checks for wear not stretch. I did say the whole thing was a bit nit picky.
I’m the same with fishing line, it is specified by a breaking strain with the units of force ?‍♂️
 
Would anyone know of any A2-friendly garages in the South which would be able to do this work? Looking at all the tools required, I'm not feeling too confident about tackling this myself. Bonus points if they can also retrofit cruise control!
 
Just necroing this thread to add some pics to give an idea of wear indication compared to Philward's as I am messing around with a donor engine on a stand and have plenty of room to photograph stuff.

The glide is 3mm ish thick:

CM200918-225427002.jpg


And this chap is worn 1.5mm deep:

CM200918-225418001.jpg


And is extremely sad:

CM200918-225457003.jpg


I think that the area circled indicates the tensioner needs replacement at about the time when two parts seperate, or near seperation. The arrow indicates where the wear is happening. It's impossible to see the actual wear without taking the crankshaft bolt off AFAIK, but you can inspect the tensioner spread with the sump removed, and have a good idea of whether the job needs to be done or not.

aaaaa.jpg



For reference this is the tensioner spread with a new part.

20200918_224347.jpg


I've got a failed surface in the old engine's sump, so I'll take a picture of the depth it failed at and add here, as soon as I manage to remember.

20200903_105237.jpg


?
 

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What’s the mileage and service history of this engine? Any comments on usage and driving style, if known?
 
Just necroing this thread to add some pics to give an idea of wear indication compared to Philward's as I am messing around with a donor engine on a stand and have plenty of room to photograph stuff.

The glide is 3mm ish thick:

View attachment 70134

And this chap is worn 1.5mm deep:

View attachment 70133

And is extremely sad:

View attachment 70135

I think that the area circled indicates the tensioner needs replacement at about the time when two parts seperate, or near seperation. The arrow indicates where the wear is happening. It's impossible to see the actual wear without taking the crankshaft bolt off AFAIK, but you can inspect the tensioner spread with the sump removed, and have a good idea of whether the job needs to be done or not.

View attachment 70138


For reference this is the tensioner spread with a new part.

View attachment 70139

I've got a failed surface in the old engine's sump, so I'll take a picture of the depth it failed at and add here, as soon as I manage to remember.

View attachment 70140

?
Hi Rogan,
I would just like to say thank you for taking the time to document the wear in your engine as it’s quite hard to visualise Without seeing firsthand.
Thanks
Keith
 
BGA TC0198FK equivalent to Febi 32266 is also availible, have fitted a few BGA kits to peugeot boxers (transit engine) and they seemed fine but its early days!!
 
What’s the mileage and service history of this engine? Any comments on usage and driving style, if known?

Pictured engine was supplied as "104k miles, good runner" ? which is what the dot gov mot history says too. Timing belt still had very clear printing on it, and I've heard that wears off completely after about 30k miles, but that's an eric the car guy wisdom so I don't know if it's true. There was a heap of iron filings on the hotside of the turbo so I'm going to take a guess on horrendous and brutal. I haven't found the source yet, so I'm treating it as an old problem and crossing my fingers return.

.
20200904_201507.jpg


My chain (not the engine pictured) went at 140k (it's a warranty replacement engine) and the previous owner had 65mpg showing on the clock so neither of us had been driving it hard. I understand that 100k miles is about when to start thinking about it. Service indicator was actually just flashing for time, so oil was mannotech and a year old. I'll try to get a picture of it together with a new chain fitted before I replace it all proper.

Something else I noticed is that, the glides are designed to make it almost impossible to change them alone in situ, or it would be a pretty easy job. You have to unclip them at the top, where I don't think there is enough slack, and slide them down. (My engine is upside down in the pictures.)
 
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I am just getting all the bits together so my mate with a garage business can do the chain/tensioner/sprockets for me in the New Year at the same time as the cambelt kit. I wanted to get all the single-use bolts so I clicked on the Briskoda link kindly provided by @dj_efk :

Another very good post from Briskoda on this job with a complete list of parts and sundries you’ll need:

Clicky

Also I cross-checked in 7zap with the part numbers. There are some significant differences and at least one mistake (repeated part number) so I'm not sure I trust the Briskoda list to be honest. Instead I'm going to order the parts that the OP @philward names, with the following I have pulled from 7zap when you click the i for part information (I've deleted the line for "number in scheme" as it doesn't seem relevant):
https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Audi/brand/3/0/Audi A2/Audi A2 (2000 - 2005)/Audi/YjFvS2pLc3JKdDhUNHVxeEQwRDRoQT09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:8cf7c7729552e7404889e19195af7a25/universal/10102->10615->10617->12783/231105100::105010

4 x Vibration damper retaining screws

screw with int. serrations
Code: N 91048802
Quantity: 4
additional: M8X20

1 x Toothed belt sprocket to crankshaft bolt
12-point head bolt
Code: 045105229 [update: Audi says this has been superseded by WHT004573 which now tallies with Briskoda p/n]
Quantity: 1
additional: M16X1.5X59

1 x Chain sprocket to oil pump bolt
hexagon bolt
Code: N 10315605
Quantity: 1
additional: M8X40

1 x Counter weight to shaft bolt
socket head bolt with inner multipoint head
Code: N 10448901 [NB: Briskoda list has wrong part number copied from above]
Quantity: 1
additional: M14X1,50X70

1 x Idler sprocket to retaining frame bolt
socket head bolt with hexagon socket head
Code: N 0147973
Quantity: 1
additional: M8X22

3 x Chain tensioner to engine block screws
socket head bolt with inner multipoint head
Code: N 90500601 [update: Audi says this has been superseded by N 90500605 which is internal hex (Allen) M6x22 and Briskoda list says N10700201 which seems to be a M6x22 Torx bolt, perhaps with a smaller contacting face under the head]
Quantity: 3
additional: M6X22

It would be great if someone could verify these numbers as I'd hate to leave my mate stuck with a car in bits waiting for parts to arrive from Germany.

Many thanks in advance and Merry Christmas everyone.

Matt
 
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Alison's were done back in October... I meant to post these earlier! Changed at about 243,000 miles. Oil changes at 10,000 miles.

I bought Alison in February 2014. I'd driven her about 117,000 miles in that time. Mixed Motorway and Urban... ? ? ?
 

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Alison's were done back in October... I meant to post these earlier! Changed at about 243,000 miles. Oil changes at 10,000 miles.

I bought Alison in February 2014. I'd driven her about 117,000 miles in that time. Mixed Motorway and Urban... ? ? ?
Mega! Was the chain rattling or found to be worn/loose?
 
Alison's were done back in October... I meant to post these earlier! Changed at about 243,000 miles. Oil changes at 10,000 miles.

I bought Alison in February 2014. I'd driven her about 117,000 miles in that time. Mixed Motorway and Urban... ? ? ?

The tensioner needed changing but it looks good for that kind of mileage - what were the sprockets like?
 
The tensioner needed changing but it looks good for that kind of mileage - what were the sprockets like?

Minimal wear on the sprockets. I always let Alison run on tick over for two minutes before and after a drive.

She is never thrashed; moderate rev's until she reaches operating temperature.

That clutch did 117,000 miles with me. Goodness knows what before that! ? ? ? ? ? ?
 
Alison's were done back in October... I meant to post these earlier! Changed at about 243,000 miles. Oil changes at 10,000 miles.

I bought Alison in February 2014. I'd driven her about 117,000 miles in that time. Mixed Motorway and Urban...

Those guides are really worn, when my 90 was done at 180k they didn’t even have any noticeable grooves


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