1.4 TDi oil pump / balance shaft chain and chain tensioner replacement.

Hi @Menno, correct, my gearbox is an MYP on my ATL engined TDI90. So far as I recall it has the same access slots for the 2 sump screws as the old 5-speed GRJ gearbox before the swap. I still have the ATL-only “shim” in there though, from when I mistakenly left it in rather than remove it, and it is not great, the clutch pedal doesn’t return all the way to the top of its travel.It is not so much of a problem that I can be bothered to do anything about it though.
I’ve been putting some miles on it this week. Seems great, I really love this car.
Matt


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Hi,
I bought the "Borsehung B18848" set and was mounting it today. The bearing wheel seams not be running smooth/freely. I can feel each ball (like a clunk from ball to ball) when I turn it in my hand. That cant be normal or am I mistaken?
 
I wonder how long this part has been in storage as the bearing sounds dry to me or corroded. I realise that once installed there is an abundance of engine oil to lubricate but important the bearing has not degraded in storage.
 
Definitely not worth the risk. Buy a new kit. The brands mentioned in this thread are known-good
 
Try soaking it in diesel over night in a tube

It could be the grease type product applied to new bearing to keep them from rusting that as solidified. The diesel will soften it
If it is still not h bin it

Paul


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I got the same kit borsehung B18848 and all bearing items feel tight and run freely. It looks and feels a quality kit...
 
These are not sealed bearings? I'd wash it out with petrol then lubricate it with engine oil; it should then be smooth, use it. If it is still gritty it is too tight in the gear, A tolerance issue, I get this frequently with cycle bearings. Reject and replace.
 
philward said:
I'll prepare this guide as a series of steps. That way I will eventually get the guide completed.

Step 1.

Have some idea of what you want to achieve and how you will achieve it. So the first thing to do is get hold of a manual and study it. The one I have cost me just £10 and sits on the hard drive of my PC.

There are various options and kits available for this repair, from just the tensioner / tensioning rail, tensioner / tensioning rail plus a chain, all the components except the interference fit crank sprocket or finally all components. I bought all components from Febi, these are genuine Audi / VW components with the branding removed:

b86lLDF.jpg


The sprockets and chain from my car were in very good condition showing only slight signs of wear:

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The tensioner and tensioning rail were however worn to what I think was the brink of failure. The pads that the chain runs over were almost completely worn through the tough surface material and the softer core material was breaking up:

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I think failure of my engine was not far away and this would have been caused by the tensioner and tenioning pads failing causing the chain to fail. I believe I could replaced just the tensioner and tensioning rail. Your decision but read this thread first as I will point out all the issues not covered in the manual.

Now is also the time to check your service history and consider:

New timing belt
New water pump
New auxiliary belt
New auxiliary belt tensioner
Click to expand...
Phil are you still on the A2 owners club, I posted a query on Thursday 13th Oct, regarding my timing belt tracking towards the oil pump housing, and leaving belt residue on the Hydraulic belt tensioner on the amf engine, this is causing the belt to burn, do you have any answer's, we were thinking Thrust washers.
Regards
Stephen Rollings.
 
Stephen Rollings said:
Phil are you still on the A2 owners club, I posted a query on Thursday 13th Oct, regarding my timing belt tracking towards the oil pump housing, and leaving belt residue on the Hydraulic belt tensioner on the amf engine, this is causing the belt to burn, do you have any answer's, we were thinking Thrust washers.
Regards
Stephen Rollings.
Click to expand...
Can you point us to your original post with details of the problem as I can't find it?
 
Stephen Rollings said:
Phil are you still on the A2 owners club, I posted a query on Thursday 13th Oct, regarding my timing belt tracking towards the oil pump housing, and leaving belt residue on the Hydraulic belt tensioner on the amf engine, this is causing the belt to burn, do you have any answer's, we were thinking Thrust washers.
Regards
Stephen Rollings.
Click to expand...
Can't have been on this forum as your post above is your only post here. If it was on the A2OC FB page, that's really just a way of pointing people toward this site.
 
Stephen Rollings said:
Phil are you still on the A2 owners club, I posted a query on Thursday 13th Oct, regarding my timing belt tracking towards the oil pump housing, and leaving belt residue on the Hydraulic belt tensioner on the amf engine, this is causing the belt to burn, do you have any answer's, we were thinking Thrust washers.
Regards
Stephen Rollings.
Click to expand...

I also can’t find your original post but I will offer up some advise
It is likely to be one of the roller in the timing belt kit that is starting to fail. It will not last much longer so be very careful. Personally I would not run the engine until the timing belt and tensioner and associated pulleys have been changed

Regards. Paul


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Stephen Rollings said:
Phil are you still on the A2 owners club, I posted a query on Thursday 13th Oct, regarding my timing belt tracking towards the oil pump housing, and leaving belt residue on the Hydraulic belt tensioner on the amf engine, this is causing the belt to burn, do you have any answer's, we were thinking Thrust washers.
Regards
Stephen Rollings.
Click to expand...
Yes, I’m still here. Tend to visit daily.
I’m reasonably certain AMF has a friction tensioner. Sounds like it is badly set up, bent or the bearing is failing.
Stop driving the car and investigate.
 
Could be that the tensioner roller is running in expansion not compression. I've seen tensioners rotated the wrong way to achieve tension. The eccentric cam in the middle of the tensioner can move either way. It needs to be setup so that if the belt tightens, it moves away from the belt, giving it more slack. It is possible to go the wrong way, so that as the belt tightens, the tensioner can actually increase the tension even more (when rotated the wrong way). Game over.

Easy mistake to make, i did it once on a 4 pot petrol mk4 golf, then only realised moments after starting the engine with the new belt. The tensioner pointer goes all the way to end stop.
 
Hi guys new to the forum nice detailed write up here which I have used to strip my chain out but my question is does any one have the torque settings for the job please?
Many thanks in advance
Joe
 
I have a complete manual for the A2 1.4 tdi AMF in my workshop, will try to take a picture of the relevant page & post it on here after work.
Cheers
Ami
 
Ek9joey said:
Hi guys new to the forum nice detailed write up here which I have used to strip my chain out but my question is does any one have the torque settings for the job please?
Many thanks in advance
Joe
Click to expand...
@Ami has this in hand. However if you advise that Ami has it covered, or alternatively, list any that more you need. I’ll edit a table of torques into the guide.
 
Information found on AMF Manual Ref Torque settings below: sorry I cant seem to be able to rotate the pictures on here, If you cant find what you are looking for, pm your whatsapp no & I will send them to your phone.
Hope this helps,
Cheers
Ami
These are from a 22 year old manual from Audi
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