1.4TDI AMF - what to look for when buying

mtl

A2OC Donor
It looks like I got an A2 virus :), because I am looking to get another A2 for commuting in near future.
Near me there is for sale a 2001 1.4TDI AMF with 230.000 kilometers. According to the seller (I will go check it this week) it works fine, but he said that when the engine gets to the operating temperature it is not so powerfull as when it is still cold.
I am aware of all A2 problems regarding electricity, etc. but I am not familiar with this engine. Any suggestions what to check and is this symptom (less power on operating temperature) some known problem with known fix?
At which kilometers the clutch usually needs to be replaced? I expect that shocks will need replacement.
Anyway the car has also some other problems (central locking not working, OSS not working, etc.) but this is not problematic. I might tackle myself these problems later on. This A2 would be really used just for commuting so it is intended to be a cheap commuter, nothing more. For pouring money into it, I have a petrol 1.4 :).
 
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Hi there, I would say 240km to 300km for clutch and shocks turbo etc based on average. Depends on service history oil changes and driving style. I would expect one major job though.
Hot loss of power I don't know, chuck be as simple as a temperature sensor causing ecu to give limp\safe mode?
 
You said you know about electrical, by that you know it needs a later (revision)convenience control unit by sound of it?
 
Yes, I was refering to ccu unit problems. But even if central locking is not solved is not a problem. As said, the goal is a cheap commuter, not a car in perfect condition. And I also have a replacement ccu unit already bought for my first A2.
Huh, so turbo also. I would need this car to “survive” another 50.000km after that is only +.
I will see how it actualy looks, when I check it. I didn’t get the feeling that car goes into limp mode when it reaches operating temperature, only that it does not pull as strong as when cold.
 
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Certainly carefully check the intercooler. Especially the lower end cap as that is the one that tends to fracture crack then split open and blow out the seal. This dump boost pressure and causes limp mode. It is reset temporarily be cycling the ignition. Also check the small "vacuum" hoses to and from the turbo and N75 valve. They are actually pressure hoses and a loose fitting, split or porous pipe with alter the turbo boost. These little pipes alternate between cloth covered rubber to thin rigid plastic tubing so many joins to CAREFULLY check.

Also check the turbo outlet pipe is secure on the turbo and the bracket that locates the turbo outlet pipe to the sump is intact. If missing or broken the pipe flexes the lower intercooler end cap and this is where the cracking is accelerated.
 
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Certainly carefully check the intercooler. Especially the lower end cap as that is the one that tends to fracture crack then split open and blow out the seal.
You mean where the pressure hose 18 goes?
Where is the intercooler located (sorry, but have not yet seen AMF A2). In front right part of the engine bay?

Also check the small "vacuum" hoses to and from the turbo and N75 valve. They are actually pressure hoses and a loose fitting, split or porous pipe with alter the turbo boost. These little pipes alternate between cloth covered rubber to thin rigid plastic tubing so many joins to CAREFULLY check.
Ok, will check them.

Also check the turbo outlet pipe is secure on the turbo and the bracket that locates the turbo outlet pipe to the sump is intact. If missing or broken the pipe flexes the lower intercooler end cap and this is where the cracking is accelerated.
Can you pin this bracked in 7zap?
 
Edit: Sorry, did not see that @audifan had posted so there is an overlap here...

Good to hear that you have got this positive virus and not the bad one... I know the feeling and have 3x AMF, 1x BHC, 1x AUA and 1x ANY
AMF vs AUA - then you have the turbo, so you have overpressure all the way. Then some new parts for you are:
Intercooler - cools down the boosted air, can suffer from tank lift-off and release of the internal pressure so the engine feels weak
Tandempump - create vacuum for the brake system and suck diesel from the tank and feed the injectorpumps - limited life for some of the brands delivered..
Inlet air pressure sensor - I have had 3x failing sensors. Recommend to buy OEM
Coolant temperature sensors - be aware there is a double setup for the engine temperature.

The best way to get a lot of km out of these engines is to be thorough with the engine oil, oil filter and air filter
If the car you consider has been run on "wrong" /bad engine oil, it is a non reversible damage..... sorry. I only use VAG 507.00 approved engine oil.
For me the number of cold starts below 5 degC counts as much as driven km. My use of the car is probably unusual, I either drive 70km or 190km if I start the car and I use an electrical block heater on the engine during winter. I guess your Slovenia is not so unlike my south of Norway when it comes to climate. I run longlife oil but change between 15000 and 25000km (9300-15500miles) dependent of number of cold starts.

Recommend strongly to get access to a OBD II scantool and perform a complete scan before you buy the car
 
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In order you asked....


Yes

As you look at the front of the car the intercooler is to the left or the radiator vertically ( or if looking forward in the engine bay it is to the right of the radiator )

No 19 in the above parts diagram.
 
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Brilliant ?
Also be aware the Intercooler pipe/hose routing in the diagram is for RHD cars only. I assume you consider to buy LHD?
 
No, IC is located the same but hoses are both to the right of the engine block when sitting in drivers seat.
All my cars are commuters with a lot of kilometers. We have one each in my family + I have a project car.
None of them have ever changed a clutch, but we do zero city driving.... so no queue
My AMF has 448` km (278' miles)minimum on the same clutch, it started to slip now and then at 410ish but still work almost fine...
 
No, IC is located the same but hoses are both to the right of the engine block when sitting in drivers seat.
Thx.
My AMF has 448` km (278' miles)minimum on the same clutch, it started to slip now and then at 410ish but still work almost fine...
Uau, 450.000 km. That is a lot.
Well this car according to the history last 10 years did cca. 4.000km per year, so not really long distances. Really bad for diesel engine. Now it would be used for 100km per day, so...
I will check the car tomorrow and I will be able to say more :). But I like to get as much info as possible before checking the car.
 
One issue that you can try to check for is the status of the balance shaft tensioner. One indicator can be a "rattle" sound when there is wear. Maybe @audifan or others with detailed knowledge can give you a short guide on how to check...
 
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Quick update. Due to very little time I just had a quick look around the car and it is in very bad condition. CCU is a problem, two door locks do not work ok, remote not working, front windscreen scratched, engine cover hanging at the back, transmission quite hard and notchy, engine mounts trashed, OSS on the right side is not tight (you can push it up), front discs are not level, odometer was roled back 30.000km, front dash has a crack, a lot of scratches...
On the engine this trouble code was present, but during the test drive there was no problem.
17965 - Charge Pressure Control
P1557 - 35-00 - Positive Deviation
That was what I was able to determine in such short time. Interestingly from 5m away it looks very nice car :).
If the seller will lower the price I might think about it and I will check it better then. For now, it is not worth so much money.
 
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I agree, very risky. As I said, first if the price will be right, I will take a thorough look at the engine and the whole car and after that decide.
If I would get 1-2 years out of it, it would be enough. But there are also some other facts that need to be taken into account. Especially safety of the A2. I would not be looking at A2 if I did not have an A2 virus ;)...
I was quite surprised by the transmission that was not butter smooth as on my petrol A2 (although with half miles), which is the same year and the gearbox oil is still not replaced (on to do list).
Also it is interesting how much front heavy diesel A2 is... 1.4 petrol has much better weight distribution. I would not think that a few kg would make such a difference, although since A2 is very light it is understandable.
 
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No idea what the condition of the car is. But as you have seen it "in the flesh" ONLY you can decide how much you are prepared to pay for the car with the now known issues. Buyer beware, but if you feel it is worth buying then you will really have to work out the price above which to walk away. Remember to factor in your time as well as repair costs. Ball park figure I would not pay more than about 60% of the asking price and even then that may be too much.
 
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No idea what the condition of the car is. But as you have seen it "in the flesh" ONLY you can decide how much you are prepared to pay for the car with the now known issues. Buyer beware, but if you feel it is worth buying then you will really have to work out the price above which to walk away. Remember to factor in your time as well as repair costs. Ball park figure I would not pay more than about 60% of the asking price and even then that may be too much.
I agree, my price is cca. 50% requested and I am sure the costs will not be small. I forgot to mention shocks.
The problem is that I like to do these small repairs and keep the car on the road a little longer. I know, A2 virus :)...
The major issue that I still need to calculate is if I would like to drive 30.000 km per year in A2 from the safety point of view. Not that I had accidents, but you never know. And newer cars are much better in this field.
 
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