1.6fsi Inlet Manifolds Removal with tips (complete)

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oneflewover

Member
So my removal of above is in progress:-
  1. Wiper arms and scuttle
  2. Air intake pipe
  3. Throttle Valve and associated (very fragile) coolant pipes
So now at this position:-
gQUo8r4.jpg


What comes next?
 
oneflewover said:
looking on A2 Fruen, there are warnings of high pressure, founded?
Click to expand...

Asbolutely. When I read up on this before XMas the high pressure fuel rail had to be discharged before you could remove the hoses (or anything else related). The way to do this (please check as I may be wrong!) was to remove the fuel pump fuse and to run the car for about 10 minutes. You can use VAGCom to monitor the fuel rail pressure and 'apparently' it will then reduce to a low value and the pipes can then be disconnected.

I took another approach (which was simpler for me at my stage in looking) and that was to release the fuel rail from the upper manifold (2 bolts as I recall) and to unhook the circular high pressure rail union (flying saucer shaped think at the left of your pic with 3 hoses running into it) by unscewing the clamp which holds it to a chassis mount, then I moved the pipes forward and out of the way with a bungie holding them (they had not moved much - maybe 1 inch) but made access far easier, along with removing the drivers side headlght.

I may have some footage of this if you would find it useful?

See post Number:3 - Seems to be a better explanation than my musings above!

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ns-needed-for-egr-pipe-replacement-diy.18799/
 
mrbroons said:
Asbolutely.

I took another approach (which was simpler for me at my stage in looking) and that was to release the fuel rail from the upper manifold (2 bolts as I recall) and to unhook the circular high pressure rail union (flying saucer shaped think at the left of your pic with 3 hoses running into it) by unscewing the clamp which holds it to a chassis mount, then I moved the pipes forward and out of the way with a bungie holding them (they had not moved much - maybe 1 inch) but made access far easier, along with removing the drivers side headlght.

I may have some footage of this if you would find it useful?
Click to expand...

Yes please, i'm passed the point of running the engine. There doesn't seem to be a lot of volume that will be at high pressure. (he said hopefully)
 
I've VPN'd in and I'm uploading the file now. I'll send you a PM with the link. It's not fancy or edited, just the raw file. About 4Gb to set your expectations! ;)
 
Undo the upper and lower engine mounts, you can then lower the engine off the mounting point and bring it forward about 4 inches. There’s enough flex in the downpipe and the driveshafts you’re be able to do this. You will then have enough room to get your hands down behind to undo the bolts on the upper inlet manifold. 6 on top 2 below from memory.

Once the upper inlet manifold is off, access to the lower one is all self explanatory.
 
oneflewover said:
So my removal of above is in progress:-
  1. Wiper arms and scuttle
  2. Air intake pipe
  3. Throttle Valve and associated (very fragile) coolant pipe
Click to expand...

Part 2
  1. Get car in the air. Front wheels about 100mm up gave me enough room
  2. Disconnect low pressure pipes to get out of the way
  3. EGR pipe and housing off
  4. Working from underneath:- hose remove from crankcase heater. Bottom manifold mounting bolt is hidden behind pipe
  5. Under bottom engine mount and top 3 bolts. Jack under sup and lower engine forward.
  6. Can now get to bolt to spin the 'thingy' out of the way to get to hidden bolt in 4
  7. Remove all top manifold bolts and spin out iof the way.
  8. High pressure fuel pipes remove, the fuel pressure sender.
  9. Manifold then comes out of the way
HYtOQWJ.jpg


Part 3
  1. Remove all the lower manifold bolts
  2. Remove harness mount screws
  3. Rive, wriggle, swear and curse to remove manifold from injectors
7xQE3UX.jpg


Thanks for advice
 
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