17439/P1031/004145 Audi A2 1.6 FSI 2002

K

keith_kspray

Member
Ive recently bought a A2 1.6FSI BAD engine code

Have a rather annoying problem, seems to be a common problem, and there also seems to be fairly simple solutions that in this case are not working

the car is gutless and has a noticeable flat spot at 3k rpm

scanned the car with VCDS and the following code keeps appearing

17439/P1031/004145 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316): Setpoint Not Reached


so as per the advice on ross tech website i checked the following

17439/P1031/004145 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316): Setpoint Not Reached

Possible Causes
Intake Manifold Flap blocked/tight
Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316) faulty
Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336) faulty

Possible Solutions
Check Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
Check Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)
Check Intake Manifold Flap

I removed the lower intake manifold, flaps move freely, they are clean and not clogged at all

the section the rod attaches to on the manifold is intact and in good condition, undamaged

the vacuum unit holds a vacuum, the rod is undamaged

checked the tuning valve (N316) with the car running getting someone to abruptly increase the engine speed - the vaccum moved/flap moved to open position

Ive found no way of testing the Potentiometer (tuning valve position sensor (G336))

so fitted a brand new potentiometer (G336) from TPS genuine, new part

also today fitted a brand new Pierburg tuning valve (N316)

i know "brand new" doesnt always mean the parts not faulty but is there any way of checking any of the above??

whats next, I clear the DTCs logged in VCDS and within a mile of driving the cars gutless again, and when you turn it off, then back on the MIL comes on


and the cycle continues......
 
Hi im not sure I'm going to be much help but i will share my experiences. Via VCDS its possible to view the output of the G336 this should show you if either the sensor is outputting correctly--at least one member has had a duff "new"sensor. This could also show that the flaps are in fact operating their full movement--the guy that fitted my new injectors experienced the flaps moving slightly causing the problems your experiencing. Sorry i can't help with more hands on as i didn't do the work.
I'm sure a more technical advisor will be along soon cheers mike
 
got a new symptom...

the flap in the manifold seems to have passed the mid point in the port where the flaps should stop at lower rpms and has jammed above the metal plate cast into the cylinder head, because of the shape of the flap there is no way without removing the lower manifold again to allow the flap to open!

i have a spare BAD engine sat in the workshop and have tried to replicate this problem by turning the flaps to get them to pass the plate in the head and its surprisingly easy!

I removed the manifold and have carefully flattened out the flaps (there is a 30 or so degree bend at the tip of each) essentially making the flap a little longer thus making it much harder for the flaps to pass that plate

whilst i was there I have replaced all the vacuum lines with silicon vacuum hose

im not sure yet if altering the geometry of the flaps is going to upset the potentiometer further as i would assume that the set points are quite specific and by altering the angle on the flat I have made it lay flatter in the port at higher RPMs and slightly less angled when the manifold is in the closed position at lower RPMs

ill try and get some pictures of what i did today and post them up incase anyone else is having similar issues that are not solved by the usual replacement of the tuning valve and position sensor
 
I have exactly the same problem now!
I wish there are some photos explaining what and where to look, you guys made it sound easy to fix :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: chb
Hi guys, I'm on my way to Germany today, can anyone help me with the partnumbers for

-Vacuum actuator
-Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
-Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)

I'll try to buy them while I'm down there.
Appreciate it!
 
Stumbled upon this thread and have similar symptoms. Done a VCDS scan and got:

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 036 906 013 F
Component: MED7.5.11 4628
Coding: 00051
Shop #: WSC 00836
VCID: 1257394B4D77
WAUZZZ8Z73N009626 AUZ7Z0B2157064
1 Fault Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N136): Setpoint Not Reached
P1031 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

What's the usual things to check? Like 6stings are the any photos explaining what and where to look. Only thing I can find is the diagram http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-...vacuum-system-activated-carbon-filter-system/
 
Last edited:
Check the #15 on the diagram, sinless. The vaccum actuator, maybe it's arm is broken. You can see it and reach it from the top left.
Mine was.
image.jpg
 
I have saved this diagram, it explains how the actuator is connected to the flaps, it's in Russian for some reason, but who cares

1e8f7b251459.jpg

If the arm itself is broken, it can be temporary 'fixed' like I did. You can count on some cuts in your fingers because of the tight space, but it should make the flaps move.
 
Fantastic 6stings. Should I be able to move the arm up and down freely with my fingers with engine off or will revving the engine make it go up and down? I did have a very quick look but it looked intacted, but I guess it snaps further down.

I'll have a closer look next week as a bit busy at moment, but did a VCDS scan after driving to work, (20 miles journey) and the entire ECU is faultless :confused:

Probably way off the mark but would a dodgy coil pack, (far right one) contribute.
 
I just followed the instructions from the experts here, I have never have an FSI engine before :)

How long have I been driving with the actuator arm snapped, I have no idea, but the engine light was on and off, sometimes just flashing, sometimes just stayed on. Deletinig the fault codes was my weekly entartaintment.

If the arm is snapped, you can take the actuator off, because it's arm is not attached to anything.

Let me know if you want emailed some photos I took when they replaced the actuator on my car.
 
No engine light, I don't seem to get them for this fault. It has become my daily thing as of late.

My car moans alot about little things which are nothing.
 
Last edited:
The guys said if the flaps are not working as they should, the engine light would flash rapidly, something with the emissions, don't ask me what.

In my case, the light were flashing and sometimes just stayed on.
After deleting the fault codes, I could drive 200-1500 km, before it was flashing or on again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top