1st A2 project Black 2005 SE 1.4L petrol CAT D 34k miles.

Rowdy

Member
I just got my 1st A2 and found out it was a CAT D. The car had been left standing for about 10 years and needs some love. I am a total novice in terms of being a mechanic so I am learning as I go. After some advice from @Rusty911 (thanks.!) I spent the morning with the car up on some wheel ramps wire brushing the wishbones and coating them in Hammerite. Here are some photos. If anyone spots anything which needs attention any advice would be totally appreciated. Thanks.!

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I just got my 1st A2 and found out it was a CAT D. The car had been left standing for about 10 years and needs some love. I am a total novice in terms of being a mechanic so I am learning as I go. After some advice from @Rusty911 (thanks.!) I spent the morning with the car up on some wheel ramps wire brushing the wishbones and coating them in Hammerite. Here are some photos. If anyone spots anything which needs attention any advice would be totally appreciated. Thanks.!

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Don't forget to give the arms a good dose of cavity wax: you can buy Dinitrol as an aerosol, one can should do both sides. You're aiming to get a good coating on all internal surfaces, particularly the lower ones where salty water will by sitting in a few months time.

Other readers of the thread: when I gave the car a quick post-purchase look, I did give the arms a good tapping with a pointy thing, and despite their rustic appearance there were surprisingly sound with a good ring to them so well worth preserving for now.
 
I think I need to wire brush all of the brakes which I assume is easiest with the wheel off. Are there any coatings for the brakes to help remove the rust and protect them? Is it easy to switch the rear brakes from drum to disc? ?
 
Don't forget to give the arms a good dose of cavity wax: you can buy Dinitrol as an aerosol, one can should do both sides. You're aiming to get a good coating on all internal surfaces, particularly the lower ones where salty water will by sitting in a few months time.

Other readers of the thread: when I gave the car a quick post-purchase look, I did give the arms a good tapping with a pointy thing, and despite their rustic appearance there were surprisingly sound with a good ring to them so well worth preserving for now.
Thanks @Rusty911 I will order a can and spray inside each of the wishbones.
 
No real point changing from rear drums to discs. A lot of work and the braking efficiency does not improve all that much and not just a case of bolting on discs instead of drums. Clean and protect as you go. There are probably some worn bushings but the aim now is to control the corrosion.
 
No real point changing from rear drums to discs. A lot of work and the braking efficiency does not improve all that much and not just a cast of bolting on discs instead of drums. Clean and protect as you go. There are probably some worn bushings but the aim now is to control the corrosion.
Thanks @audifan I will stick with the drum brakes then. The drums have a lot of rust on the outside. What is a good protection to add once I have wire brushed them? am also wondering if something is missing from the drive shaft on the right side?
 
Any suitable high temp paint. Drive shaft, not sure as I do not have a petrol, may just be missing paint and a bit of corrosion. Just plod away at it.

Carry out a full service before you start the engine. Most items will be past their life by now. I would also drain out the old fuel as very probably at the very least contaminated by now.
 
Looks pretty good under there though I see someone has tried jacking the car using the floorpan on the offside. This is very common, it's always worth asking(telling) anyone that works on your car to use the correct jacking points.
 
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Any suitable high temp paint. Drive shaft, not sure as I do not have a petrol, may just be missing paint and a bit of corrosion. Just plod away at it.

Carry out a full service before you start the engine. Most items will be past their life by now. I would also drain out the old fuel as very probably at the very least contaminated by now.
Actually, it's just had new belts (all three) and the engine oil looked new. Engine looked literally like new inside (it really did) and nice bright, clean G13 in the expansion tank.

The underside was the only area that shouted out for love really, and even then all service items (brakes, links, CV boots, brake hoses etc) looked fine.
 
Actually, it's just had new belts (all three) and the engine oil looked new. Engine looked literally like new inside (it really did) and nice bright, clean G13 in the expansion tank.

The underside was the only area that shouted out for love really, and even then all service items (brakes, links, CV boots, brake hoses etc) looked fine.
Here are some pics of the engine bay.
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Also needs a new scuttle and rear engine bay seal. The bushing is also missing from the right wing rear bonnet location. Bet there is a horrible rattle from it.
 
Also needs a new scuttle and rear engine bay seal. The bushing is also missing from the right wing rear bonnet location. Bet there is a horrible rattle from it.
I will be getting a rear seal from @Clackers the bushing was held on with body filler yes definitely needs a new one of those. Is the scuttle the plastic trim below the windscreen? Thanks
 
Will be good to clean up and protect the aluminium parts too. Any product suggestions for that? Thanks
 
Also needs a new scuttle and rear engine bay seal. The bushing is also missing from the right wing rear bonnet location. Bet there is a horrible rattle from it.

I can sort you out with the bonnet seal and the cup for the bonnet latch as cheap as chips.

Edit - I can see you’ve posted to say Andy is sorting you out ?
 
Good that you had @Rusty911 to have a look over it for you before buying. He’s right with his advice to just clean and paint what you can. Unless you are doing a nut and bolt resto on it, there’s no point in throwing money at things that don’t need changing.
 
Good that you had @Rusty911 to have a look over it for you before buying. He’s right with his advice to just clean and paint what you can. Unless you are doing a nut and bolt resto on it, there’s no point in throwing money at things that don’t need changing.
Thanks @A2Steve.!

@Rusty911 very kindly looked over it after I purchased it as it was untaxed when I viewed it and so I could not drive it very far beforehand. There are some parts which definitely need replacing, particularly the radiator plastic housing and fan. I don't know how complicated that will be though.
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Looks pretty good under there though I see someone has tried nacking the car using the floorpan on the offside. This is very common, it's always worth asking(telling) anyone that works on your car to use the correct jacking points.
I will be sure to do that, thanks!
 
Is the scuttle the plastic trim below the windscreen? Thanks

Yes you are correct.

The bushing on wipe arms wear out, so check to ensure sure the mechanism is not, or about to make contact with the screen creating an etched arch into the glass.
They can be refurbed - see the member services section.

Hammertoe paint used for the control arms will be fine for rear drums, especially if the paint on variety.

Oh,and if the oil is 10y old I’d be wanting to change it even if it looked ok as the detergents/additives may will have degraded in that time.


Sent from the future
 
Bet the brake / clutch fluid looks like Shrek pi55. Every 2 years is still the recommended change interval.
 
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