2004 1.6 FSI Sport HELP....compression

audifan

A2OC Donor
Next step is to have a leakdown test done on the engine. If it is an inlet valve leaking or damaged the air escapes back through the air induction pipework, if an exhaust valve then can be heard in the exhaust, may even be both. TBH would expect several damaged valves if it was a cam belt but if it was the exhaust belt again sever bent but only exhaust valves. Worth checking the valve timing.
 

Weetank2

Member
If a bent / unseated valve it would be common to hear some form of audible concern while cranking / running?
+
I would expect some compression albeit reduced on that cylinder

Running on three cylinders over 500 miles from London to Aberdeen would have been rough + needed higher revs to get going?

Emissions would also have been excessive at previous Mot

Is there any sign of pressurised air from oil filler cap when running
 

Teresa

Social Secretary
Have to admit that having read this, it sounds very much like mine when the head gasket split and I had to have a rebore done.
It did cost me £1,500, but I'd always intended to keep the car for a long time and realised it was less than I'd lost each hear in depreciation on my last "modern" car
 

PlasticMac

Member
Have to admit that having read this, it sounds very much like mine when the head gasket split and I had to have a rebore done.
It did cost me £1,500, but I'd always intended to keep the car for a long time and realised it was less than I'd lost each hear in depreciation on my last "modern" car
Hi @Teresa
So, you had an FSI rebored?
Mac.
 

StefanoP

Member
I think that's what they said they had to do - I'd need to fish the invoice out.
Hi Teresa, as PlasticMac points out, we'd be interested to hear if the FSI engine could be rebored...I could say that I am VERY Interested in this possibility/ option, as you can see in the thread I posted today about my FSI losing compression as well. I wish I could have my FSI rebored for £1,500.... Thank you!
Stefano
 

spike

Member
Couple of points.
Previous comments indicate the block is cast iron and to my knowledge plasma coating is only applied to alloy cyl blocks.

The shop manual has a table showing dimensions for 3 rebore sizes so engine can be over bored if pistons are available

Cheers Spike
 

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Teresa

Social Secretary
Hi Teresa, as PlasticMac points out, we'd be interested to hear if the FSI engine could be rebored...I could say that I am VERY Interested in this possibility/ option, as you can see in the thread I posted today about my FSI losing compression as well. I wish I could have my FSI rebored for £1,500.... Thank you!
Stefano
I'll get the paperwork out tomorrow and have a look. I do have a really great garage. I think it ended up being a much harder job than he thought - he had the car for about 6 weeks in the end !
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Previous comments indicate the block is cast iron and to my knowledge plasma coating is only applied to alloy cyl blocks.

Alloy cylinder blocks either have cast iron liners or plasma coating which is effectively a sprayed-on cast iron liner. The first engine to receive this treatment was the ARR, fitted to the Lupo FSI:


The Lupo FSI was an experimental/developmental model which was available for the public to buy - but only in Germany and Austria! This treatment was unusual at the time - even the Lupo 3L had conventional liners. The only other engine I can find that it was used on before 2020 was the WR16 used in the Veyron. In 2020, Skoda started using this process in production of the EA211.

RAB
 

Teresa

Social Secretary
Hi, I found out my receipt. I may have been wrong about the rebore - I had the cylinder head fully reconditioned (apologies - its out of my level of knowledge so I dont know the difference between a rebore)
It did fix it though and I did have very similar issues, with very low compression on 1 cylinder
Hope this helps
 

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N8P

Member
How easy is it to do a leakdown test done on the engine & is this the only route to understanding why the compression test results were
cylinder 1 - 145
cylinder 2 - 175
cylinder 3 - 185
cylinder 4 - 0.......

Just for info when the can was running from purchase (oct) to 2weeks ago, there was no smoke (white or blue) from the exhaust at any point & would quite happily be doing 43mpg (extra urban) & no noise accept the rattle at 2.7 - 3k rpm. Oh well :(
 

kp 115

Member
Just a quick update when out driving today still no engine management light however still the flat spot.

Can only be describe it as - a hesitation in the acceleration curve between 2.2 & 2.7rpm followed by a judder which develops (as noted before) bogging the car down but i can now hear a rattle, clicky or tinny flappy noise only within that rev range.

Once out of the 2.7rpm regains acceleration pulling up through the rest of the curve.

What is this rattle, clicky or tinny flappy noise? Any thoughts
Hi N8P,
On the “No engine management light”
You should check that the engine management light illuminates when the ignition is turned on & then goes out as in a number of tampered dash panels have been known ranging from covered with tape or bluetac etc to linked out.
Hth
Keith
Sorry just read the new posts !
 

Clackers

Member
Have got a decent fsi engine here which was running perfectly when I bought the car...its got 120,000 on it though,but may be a decent replace.ent if you/anyone else needs one. 👍
 

Phil FSI

Member
Have got a decent fsi engine here which was running perfectly when I bought the car...its got 120,000 on it though,but may be a decent replace.ent if you/anyone else needs one. 👍
Good to know an FSI engine can still be decent at 120000 miles 👍🏻
 

PlasticMac

Member
How easy is it to do a leakdown test done on the engine & is this the only route to understanding why the compression test results were
cylinder 1 - 145
cylinder 2 - 175
cylinder 3 - 185
cylinder 4 - 0.......

Just for info when the can was running from purchase (oct) to 2weeks ago, there was no smoke (white or blue) from the exhaust at any point & would quite happily be doing 43mpg (extra urban) & no noise accept the rattle at 2.7 - 3k rpm. Oh well :(
Get it scanned.
Suspect you'll get P1031.
Also suspect it'll have been there a while, and that the EML light has been "modified" by the, or a seller.
Maybe a bit of broken flap has damaged a valve seat?
Mac.
 

PlasticMac

Member
@N8P
Here's a quick visual check, no tools required, just a helper.
Open the bonnet, and locate the Flap Actuator, at the left hand side of cam cover, top of the engine
Briefly run the engine (to ensure you have stored vacum), then switch off. Observe the actuator shaft, it should be in the up position, held by residual vacum.
Ask your helper to turn the ignition to the first position, (ignition on only, not to start).
The actuator shaft should now drop approximately 15 mm, as the vacum is vented.
(This, if all is well, will drop the flaps to the down, inactive, position).
Now, ask helper to start the engine.
As soon as it starts, the actuator shaft should move upwards, again about 15 mm.
(This should lift the flaps to the up, active position, where they will remain until you get to 2800 - 3000 rpm, when they will drop down, to maximise intake cross section and air flow).
Let us know what you see, with pics of possible.
Mac.
 

N8P

Member
View attachment 73270
Hi Guys as you'll see from previous post the EML light does work & did blink circ. 10 times & then goes out for 30 seconds before its back on blinking.

I assume this is the EML light that you're referring to?

@PlasticMac thanks for your info regarding the actuator arm would this or does this have anything to do with the compression lost in cylinder 4? I will try and do this in the coming days to see if what you note is being done - thanks again.

@Clackers i'll PM you shortly.

Cheers hope this in coming new year will be better than the year that's passed for you all.
Take care
N8P
 

PlasticMac

Member
Actuator is directly related to EML light. If flaps don't move correctly, you'll get an EML. There are other conditions that trigger EML too.
Not come across the blinking EML light, you do need a scan to tell you what's up.
Might even help on the compression loss. My guess is that the compression loss is likely to be valve related, rather than piston/bores/rings.
A scan will really help.
Mac.
 
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