54 plate TDI fuel pump

Assuming this is for a BHC or ATL? Anecdotally the Bosch diesel pump option is generally considered better than the LUK. However I'm almost certain this only really works with the AMF rather than the two newer engines due to some plumbing differences around the EGR area in the latter that have to be worked around if the Bosch pump is used. If you can do a seal replacement / refurb on the existing one then this would be an academic problem.

Actually replacing the pump itself isn't too bad - remove engine cover & boost pipe, undo 4 bolts (2 spline & 2 allen) and 2-3 pipes, remove, clean up spilled diesel, put on new gasket, connect pipes to new pump and bolt it on - with the correct torques and hope that this seals it in place. If it has been leaking then you need to look at the condition of the coolant pipes underneath there as these go sticky/soft when given a good soaking.

You can probably tell from the lack of accurate detail above that I'm not a mechanical expert - but it is do-able with the right tools and some care. Bosch pump was over £100 if I remember but at least I knew it was a good one going on.
 
I have just replaced a Luk pump with a Bosch one on my wife's Lupo 3L ANY engine. The latter's head is essentially identical to an AMF head and the pumps are more or less the same size, so I would think that they are interchangeable. You'll need special pliers for the fuel line clips. The larger bolts are usually Allen (20 Nm), with the smaller being either Allen or 10mm hex (10 Nm). Note that the Bosch pump won't be supplied with a gasket. Head/pump gaskets are different.

Note that the Luk pumps can have smaller hex bolts; you can't use these with a Bosch so you will need new Allen bolts.

RAB
 
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Thanks For all the info, I did not make myself clear, it is not the HP (engine mounted pump) It is the LP booster pump in the tank itself that is making the whistling kettle sound.
 
Thanks For all the info, I did not make myself clear, it is not the HP (engine mounted pump) It is the LP booster pump in the tank itself that is making the whistling kettle sound.
No, it's not because there isn't one, despite what the SSP might say. The tandem pump is the LP pump. The HP pumps are part of the injector.

Wheel bearing?

RAB
 
No, it's not because there isn't one, despite what the SSP might say. The tandem pump is the LP pump. The HP pumps are part of the injector.

Wheel bearing?

RAB
Sadly not a bearing as still there when stationary.
 
Check any vents in the filler cap area. If they are blocked, you might be hearing air wheezing into the tank. In that case, removing the cap should stop the noise.

RAB
 
Thanks for staying with me here!
The noise is more like white noise, old style radios in cars with poor suppression. Before you ask the radio is off!
 
Is this only when the engine is running, when the ignition is completely off, or in the on position (but without engine running)? Trying to think about what might be running back there in those three states. My BHC car has a weird high pitched buzz - almost a resonance in two different notes that oscillate randomly between each other depending on engine revs - when the engine is running that sounds (from drivers' seat) as if it is in the opposite side rear passenger door - but when you're sitting in that seat it sounds like it is in the boot. Reminiscent of an old dial-up modem tone starting up although a bit quieter. Not the same in my AMF car which doesn't do this at all.
 
Assuming this is for a BHC or ATL? Anecdotally the Bosch diesel pump option is generally considered better than the LUK. However I'm almost certain this only really works with the AMF rather than the two newer engines due to some plumbing differences around the EGR area in the latter that have to be worked around if the Bosch pump is used. If you can do a seal replacement / refurb on the existing one then this would be an academic problem.

Actually replacing the pump itself isn't too bad - remove engine cover & boost pipe, undo 4 bolts (2 spline & 2 allen) and 2-3 pipes, remove, clean up spilled diesel, put on new gasket, connect pipes to new pump and bolt it on - with the correct torques and hope that this seals it in place. If it has been leaking then you need to look at the condition of the coolant pipes underneath there as these go sticky/soft when given a good soaking.

You can probably tell from the lack of accurate detail above that I'm not a mechanical expert - but it is do-able with the right tools and some care. Bosch pump was over £100 if I remember but at least I knew it was a good one going on.
Just in case somebody comes by who wants more info on this:
 
Nice weather today so a bit more trouble shooting.
Definately coming from the tank area.
Engine running, stationary, whistling kettle noise very evident from rear nearside.
 
Does not seem to vary with revs
No its just &@#£!%* annoying!
 
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