A 2nd A2 for me - project FSI

What are you greasing the oss with ?
It is just as important to remove ALL of the old grease this is difficult with the oss in situ
Break cleaner works well and a piece so aluminium sheet bent to get into the part of the oss rails where the truck run
Then re grease with white spray grease and don’t use loads of it just a little in the rails were the truck feet run
If it still judders then it will be the nylon caps on the truck feet Worn through that needs a complete oss strip down and rebuild



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I've got the OSS to work tonight after driving it about gently over potholes to try and flex the body a bit and lots of on-off with the OSS switch. Initially it only ticked, then the front started moving but it stalled when opening the rear glass, raising maybe 2mm on the left but sticking on the right. more cycling of the switch and the rear glass eventually freed off too. It seems to be the actual rubberised seals to the body that are sticking. What is best to use to prevent the sticking?

The owners of hardtop convertibles are advised to use some form of perfluoridated oil to lubricate the many roof seals to prevent sticking. One version of it is called Shih-etsu grease. The one I use on my Volvo C70 is Krytox, it's made by Dupont, from memory its product code is GPL105. It has also worked a treat to free up the OSS on my Cobalt blue car which was starting to stick. There's a place in Reading that sells it mail-order, it's not cheap, but I'm only halfway down the little bottle after 7 years. I still have the invoice if you want their contact details.
 
That's great news you got it working and it's behaving. I think most of these misfire situations from the research i've made seams to stem from injectors mostly, followed by coils etc. Again great news you've got it back together, a real accomplishment, and all the best in getting an mot. :)
 
The rad fan controller had suffered water ingress and the damage was too bad to bother trying to repair. I have some photos and will post them here next time. Ian @Proghound has kindly sold me a replacement. What an excellent chap, and what a lovely upgraded TDI he has. I am hoping to get a few more bits off his breaker next weekend. The new controller works fine, the fan cuts in with the climate control ECON off (light on) and I also plugged in VCDS and nervously watched the measurement block for coolant temperature climb all the way up to 113degC before the fan cut in. It brings the coolant temperature down to about 105degC before cutting out which is rather high for any normal car but I think correct for the FSI.
OSS: many thanks for the advice. For the grease: I can’t honestly remember what grease I used last autumn but it would have been either lithium or silicone. I’ve ordered some Gummi Pflege both stick and aerosol so I will clean the seals and seal seats before applying one or both. I’ve used it previously on my A4 B6 cabrio roof and door seals and it did improve things a good deal.
Last night I installed the fog lights and ran the wiring to the nearside bulkhead but now I’m puzzling over the best route through it to connect to the red and purple wire that comes from the light switch. Also there is no red and purple wire on the grey connector at the NS A-pillar (!) so I’m not sure whether it might be easier to run the wires to the off side bulkhead, go through there and splice into the wire closer to the switch. This is a puzzle because the wire is definitely there at the switch connector but not there on the A-pillar and it shouldn’t go anywhere else according to the diagramsThe bulkhead is much more obstructed on the OS due to the brake servo and other fuel related gubbins. I must fire up my laptop and do a search to see if this wire routing has been solved by others, (Tapatalk search is hopeless) and also take a look at my TDI fog light wiring to see if I can learn anything.
All the best,
Matt


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I’ve been slightly distracted by the accident-ette in my TDI90 but that’s all sorted now and..... drum roll.....
Project FSI HAS A NEW MOT. Passed first time. No advisories!

I’ve still not driven it on the road as no tax or insurance yet but my neighbour who owns the garage (the same chap I borrowed the honing tool from) says it drives nicely, he’s been to the other end of town and back in it - I guess 5 miles, still no EML.

I’ve bought Pete @P stamp ‘s cream leather interior as an early birthday present to myself.
What a great bloke Pete is. Also going to see Ian @Proghound for a few more bits and pieces.

I may still get some Alcantara to replace the worn through sections on the old seats - they are in great condition apart from this and they benefit from electric lumbar.

Pics soon.

Question for techies: once taxed and insured, I guess I should be running in the engine as all cylinders were honed and one piston and rings are new? What do we think? Avoid full load and high revs for 250 miles? Or not necessary and ok to drive it like I stole it?

Matt


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I’ve been slightly distracted by the accident-ette in my TDI90 but that’s all sorted now and..... drum roll.....
Project FSI HAS A NEW MOT. Passed first time. No advisories!

I’ve still not driven it on the road as no tax or insurance yet but my neighbour who owns the garage (the same chap I borrowed the honing tool from) says it drives nicely, he’s been to the other end of town and back in it - I guess 5 miles, still no EML.

I’ve bought Pete @P stamp ‘s cream leather interior as an early birthday present to myself.
What a great bloke Pete is. Also going to see Ian @Proghound for a few more bits and pieces.

I may still get some Alcantara to replace the worn through sections on the old seats - they are in great condition apart from this and they benefit from electric lumbar.

Pics soon.

Question for techies: once taxed and insured, I guess I should be running in the engine as all cylinders were honed and one piston and rings are new? What do we think? Avoid full load and high revs for 250 miles? Or not necessary and ok to drive it like I stole it?

Matt


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I would be running it in
The old rings and the new rings need to bed into the Jones bores
Avoid sustaining high revs for a few hundred miles


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Ive read quite a bit on this subject and when it concerns peoples precious original Audi 5 Cyl Turbo rebuilds costing many large ones the consensus is,..........

Use mineral oil to bring the engine up to temperature, get it hot, and then drop it out as this will get rid of any contaminants/ impurities accumulated from the build/honing process out of the engine that might be in there. Then for the first 100 miles using new oil filter and new mineral oil to allow the bedding in process, keep revs down but drive normaly around town and try to keep the engine dancing around the rev range as much as possible but well below the max revs at no more than 3000 revs.

The reason for using mineral oil over synthetic during the break in period is that is contains the least amount detergents and other additives which would otherwise stop the rings shaping themselves to the bore as they would just glide straight over causing glazing and won't seal properly allowing fuel to mix with the oil which is an abrasive over time.

For the next 900 miles use semi sythectic oil new filter and driving in exactly the same manor with as much varied revs as as possible to avoid glazed bores increasing revs up to 4000rpms. Then drop that out use a new filter and use fully sythectic oil and enjoy.:)
 
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Thanks all. I now have the FSI taxed and insured and done around 120 miles. I'm running it in with Comma X-Flow type MOT 20W/50 mineral motor oil. There are still no engine faults codes (no EML, no fault codes logged by engine controller) and I've been driving on a variety of roads so I think everything is working for the time being. The car doesn't seem to be losing any fluids and the idle is smooth.
However, there are some niggles:
The climate control has packed up, with no cool air and loads of fault codes logged - after clearing codes the following ones keep on coming back:

00601 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Central Flap (G112)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00600 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (G92)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

The pipes running to the condenser are definately warm / cold so I think it's just a flap problem not air con.

Also there is a horrendous squeak / rattle coming from the centre console area and one of the exhaust heat shields has "had-it" and keeps fouling the exhaust, buzzing away. Driving over rough ground produces the odd squeak from the OSS but I can live with that.

The driving experience is a little marred by the above but ignoring those, I think it is nice to drive, especially with new clutch. Even the Mrs says she likes it. I'm trying not use full performance and high revs due to running in but it is spritely above 3000rpm. I was expecting performance similar to my old Mk2 Golf GTI but from what I recall there was a lot more low-end torque available when driving that.

Photos next time - need to wash it!
 
I agree about the lack of low end torque on a1.6 FSI. Once you get it spinning, it's performance is very spirited, even GTI ish, but, being used to turbo engines, I struggle to get it off the line in the manner I'd like sometimes! Mac.
 
Thanks all. I now have the FSI taxed and insured and done around 120 miles. I'm running it in with Comma X-Flow type MOT 20W/50 mineral motor oil. There are still no engine faults codes (no EML, no fault codes logged by engine controller) and I've been driving on a variety of roads so I think everything is working for the time being. The car doesn't seem to be losing any fluids and the idle is smooth.

Excellent news, great to see you're back on the road with the car, i hope as the bedding in process is completed you get even more out of it.


I think it is nice to drive, especially with new clutch. Even the Mrs says she likes it. I'm trying not use full performance and high revs due to running in but it is spritely above 3000rpm. I was expecting performance similar to my old Mk2 Golf GTI but from what I recall there was a lot more low-end torque available when driving that.

Photos next time - need to wash it!

Was the clutch going or was it you thought - as you're in there..........? I'm intrigued, might change mine if you say it's worth it, what mileage was yours?

I've never owned a Golf GTI so can't comment about low down torque on that engine.Are we talking low revs but foot planted to the floor where this low level tourque comes in?
 
@Vorsprung durch Technik - answering your questions:
The clutch stank badly of burning (though this may have been from when the previous owner drove it onto the car transporter revving its nuts off to keep from stalling!) and had a juddery sudden action so although the friction plate was only about half way down to the rivets I decided to change it. I only rarely get to change a clutch so and I have a bit of an OCD about tightening the bolts evenly on the pressure plate since a Metro and a Renault 12 I did in the late 1980s both ended up with juddery clutches after I changed them. Tightening the bolts exactly 45deg in steps and strict rotation takes ages but has so far resulted in really smooth take up on the ones I've done since.
Also the GTI: not really foot to the floor - no it just wanted to get up and go, like my 2003 3L A4 convertible - just tickle the accelerator and suddenly you're headed for a speed awareness course or SP30 if plod or a Gatso is watching.

The cooler weather has meant I can live without cool air for now so the faults in the last post will wait for a bit.

I knew it was too good to be true because too many people had warned me. The engine warning light came on after about 200 miles. Codes 16804 and 17699 popped up when I scanned the engine controller with VCDS on my work laptop which has the shareware version on it so you only get to find out the first code meaning and have to google the others (home laptop has full version):
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16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
17699 - Coolant Temp Sensor at Radiator Outlet (G83); Signal too Large: Upper Limit Exceeded
I was half expecting the cat one because the MOT emissions were a bit marginal and the cat is an aftermarket Powerflow one I guess the previous owner had fitted.

Yesterday I changed two things:
1) The G83 radiator outlet temperature sensor - easy to do after removing the undertray and £9.71 from Eurocarparts - didn't need to drain the coolant and only lost about 100ml despite the old o-ring sticking in the housing and needing to be lifted out with a finger. Will see soon if it fixes 17699...
2) The "running in" oil after 250 miles and put 4.5l Quantum Platinum in it with another new oil filter. (Thanks for the advice @Vorsprung durch Technik, I've not stuck to it quite but then this isn't a motor worth thousands!). The mineral oil that came out looked only very slightly darker than when it went in and I was watching it spill into the catch container the whole time - no metallic bits or anything except oil.

I also saw that both the exhaust flanges either side of the flexi section seems to be leaking slightly in the middle. There is a tiny amount of soot around the joint and you can just feel the hot gas when you plug the tailpipe with a rag. Also condensation drip from both flanges from a cold start. This could easily be the cause of the 16804 problem. I'll replace both gaskets, having not renewed them with the engine / clutch work as they looked perfectly alright. I might try just a smear of exhaust sealer on the mating faces but I;ve heard that this can knacker a cat if a bit breaks off inside. Opinions please!

Also spotted that the under tray has actually been touching the bottom of the exhaust at the very back edge as it has melted and there has been the noise as if something is a bit boomy. All the exhaust mountings look good but the undertray seems to be maybe too high. Maybe it is missing a spacer or bracket at the back where it bolts to the subframe with sheet metal screws? or maybe the exhaust is bigger bore than stock?

I've ordered 2 new bits of exhaust heatshield / underbody trim to replace the comically corroded bits that are way too rattly and ratty to do anything with. These are the bits 8Z0825215(A?) and 8Z0804172B. I can't even see where all the mountings to the body were, will have to trace them using the new parts when they arrive. I'll use aluminium nutserts and nylon screws and washers to try to defeat the horrendous electrolytic corrosion that Audi couldn't be ar5ed to think about for these parts and their fastenings, at least until I find out which ones get above the nylon melting temperature!

See photos below. What do people think to what I've done to the interior? The seats, door cards and various plastics are from Pete @P stamp and the other twist bits from Ian @Proghound. The old interior was black with platinum half leather and Alcantara seats but the bottom bits of both front seats had basically "had it" and I had toyed for long enough with trying to match Alcantara repair material and either find someone to do the seat panel replacement (stitching) or do it myself (and likely make a dog's dinner), when Pete's twist seats came up and it was an easy decision. I might go for a twist roller blind thing if one comes up to replace the black one. I have Ian's Twist roof liner, carpet/mat set and some of the ABCD pillar panels still in Platinum which I may change out one day. The main reason to swap over the armrests was a practical one - the new door cards were from a car with 2 electric windows and my FSI has 4 so the switches wouldn't fit. Drilling the door cards' plastic welds, pulling old armrests off and screwing on the replacements was easy. Also I can live with the blanked-off rear winder holes in the new door cards, mostly 'cos I never go in the back! Obviously I now have lots of old bits: black door cards with cream armrests, half-leather and alcantara 5-seater set of seats etc. all safely tucked out of sight and mind in my lock-up. PM me if anyone is interested, or one day I'll get around to listing them on the parts for sale forum.

Oh, and Andy @Gritty came out for a spin in it a few weeks ago before I accompanied him for a spin in his TDI - he only lives up the road it turns out, both our cars are Dolphin Grey with OSS, 16" wheels and similar vintage so outwardly they're really the same to a casual observer. We had a little tinker with his thermostat housing bolts too.

Enough for now, all the best,

Matt

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Looks lovely Matt. I really like the whole twist/black combination for an interior, as you know I did the same on mine and for very similar reasons.
A propos of which, I'd be interested in your previous black rear doorcards - specifically the plastic pockets from them that don't have the humps for the window winders, as I'm using black pockets as well as armrests on my cream doorcards.
 
Hello Matt,

I missed this thread back in 2019. That interior looks just right doesn’t it.

Really liking the Soul armrests on the Twist door cards:

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This is something I’ll be copying in the Project OEM A2 as I think it suits beautifully. Great work!

Now where did I put that Furniture Clinic Paint, haha.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hello Matt,

I missed this thread back in 2019. That interior looks just right doesn’t it.

Really liking the Soul armrests on the Twist door cards:

View attachment 116563

This is something I’ll be copying in the Project OEM A2 as I think it suits beautifully. Great work!

Now where did I put that Furniture Clinic Paint, haha.

Kind regards,

Tom
Yep, that’s my long term plan for Tonka as well. 👍
 
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