A Guide to the A2's Boot and Rear Seats

Although it is possible to remove the rear bench on your own, my back would advise against it. As Dave says, it's cumbersome and you can easy give your interior a good thump with it.
I know from experience with my own bench seat it’s very heavy and I have previously on one occasion damaged my precious Bose grills getting it out.
 
Well the happy update is that with the seat I was working on... the OS one that could be removed because the locking bullet-pins were not locking to the floor... I realised I'd forgotten overnight that there is a spring loaded latch that prevents release of the locking pins unless the seat is folded hard down. I leaned on the folded seat where it sat on my bench while pulling the plastic release handle, and the ball-bearings retracted allowing the spring loaded collar to slide down over the ball bearings.
Just be on the safe side I double checked if they would release once locked in-situ by mocking up the floor with a piece of ply drilled with the same size of hole as the floor of the car... and it worked fine. The seat is now installed and removes every time with no probs. This means the seat belt buckle attached to the seat is now securely anchored to the car via the floor and is SAFE to use. Phew!

I tried and tried everything I could think of to free the stuck NS seat from the floor, and despite reckoning on having covered every recommend posted on the forum... I just ran out of ideas and patience... for now. I think the next time I take a look it will be a case of peeling back the seat base cover and somehow levering up or pulling up on the L-shaped bracket attached to top of the centre pins (which somehow control the ball-bearings) that rise and fall inside the bullet-pins. Trouble is, the seat back has to be folded flat foreward to allow the spring-loaded latch to rise, and that means I've got to somehow pull/lever those L-shaped brackets that actuate the bullet-pins, remotely from the back edge of the folded seat.
If I can sort out the remote actuation, and manage to release the seat, then I'm half way there. With it being stuck in the car it'll be a lot harder than dealing with it on a workbench in a shed full of hand-tools close to hand.

I almost bought a really nice pretty new Suzuki Swift before I got ambushed by A2's, but then I'd have had nothing to do during Lock-Down.
 
It's been a while, but last week I decided that locked-in NS seat was going to submit to superior brainpower, problem-solving experience, and sheer determination. After 2 days of painful aggravation to my arthritic fingers and almost dislocating my hip... the seat won.

All directions are as viewed from behind/looking forward.
There is a simple cam (cam A) within the RH hinge of this NS seat that blocks rotation of the release mechanism that lifts the centre rod of the locking floor pins. This cam rotates clear of the hinge when the seat back is fully forward and pressed (with only modest force) down. The cam is part of, and in-line with, the steel frame of the backrest which, when the backrest is upright, points downward. The cam rotates rearward and clear of the mechanism below it when the backrest is laid forward and pushed down.
There is a sliding plate (plate B) sandwiched within the hinge, straddling the hinge centre pin, which has a spring that slides the plate upwards when the previously mentioned cam rotates clear. This plate is, obviously, part of the mechanism that prevents the locking floor pins being unlocked until the seat back is laid forward and pushed down.
On my seat, even when pulling this sliding plate up to the max using a hook, the mechanism stays locked when I pull the base squab release handle (handle H). Not even a millimetre of movement within the mechanism.

The base squab release handle H is designed to turn (rolling forward) a rod which rotates toothed plates (plates C) attached to and pivoting on either side of the squab frame. These toothed plates rotate (rolling backwards) another pair of toothed plates (plates D), and each plate D has an approx 3 cm long arm attached at 90 degrees to it.... each arm pointing inward towards the other. This small arm, via a small nylon roller, lifts the "L" shaped bracket that pulls the centre pin up out of the bullet-shaped floor pins. This in turn allows the 3 small ball-bearings to retract... and the seat base to release from the floor. Everything looks as it should, and perfectly normal.

So... what's happening with my seat? Sliding plate B lifts but rotating toothed plates C & D refuse to rotate when handle H is pulled.

I've given everything a little squirt with WD40, and levered behind every part designed for movement with a thin flat driver to check that nothing has rusted together, and to encourage the oil to suck in. Even the centre rod of the bullet shaped floor pins show a slight degree of movement when levered, suggesting they will lift. The positions of Plates C & D, relative to each other, match on both sides of the seat. All OK there. It's a mystery.

Without buying an illuminated inspection endoscope, I can't see the area where sliding plate B meets toothed plate C... so don't know if there is a fault, something broken/mangled, or if there is an unknown intermediate component (between B & C) that's miss-behaving. There is not even the slightest degree of movement (either seen or felt) within this system of rod, cogs, arms, 'L' brackets, & centre pins... so I can only assume whatever the problem is, it lies somewhere out of sight where B & C meet.
NB. The backrest release handle, set into the top of the backrest, appears to have no intended connection with any of the base release mechanisms that I have managed to figure out.

Any ideas? PLEASE!
 
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I feel your pain and frustration.

Is the backrest still upright in its normal position?

Andy
Yes Andy, the seat works perfectly in upright position... the back locks onto either of the two upright catches... it even fold flat. It just won't release from the floor. There is no movement of the release handle (handle H) which opens/releases the floor bolts/pins.
 
Yes Andy, the seat works perfectly in upright position... the back locks onto either of the two upright catches... it even fold flat. It just won't release from the floor. There is no movement of the release handle (handle H) which opens/releases the floor bolts/pins.
My n/s back seat stuck once in similiar vein, a common occurrence with many members , but thankfully it yielded to violently applying full body weight on the folded flat backrest while pulling the release handle, no doubt something you will have tried many times. Sorry no further help but it does sound you are at stage of being destructive to release the seat. A replacement seat from one one of the recyclers on here for peanuts should not be difficult to source if need be first, just the difficulty of matching pattern and transport.

Good luck.

Andy
 
Just a small chance that the bar that holds the seat base upright when folded is not stowed and has twisted the base on its mounts preventing the release working. You could try to see if it is out and then try to push it with a thin bar or lever to pop it back in its slot. As I said small chance but anything is worth a try before resorting to controlled vandalism.
 
Just a small chance that the bar that holds the seat base upright when folded is not stowed and has twisted the base on its mounts preventing the release working. You could try to see if it is out and then try to push it with a thin bar or lever to pop it back in its slot. As I said small chance but anything is worth a try before resorting to controlled vandalism.
I had already tried levering up the base of the seat with a flay pry-bar, but not a smidge of movement. The gap between seat and floor is tight... about 2 mm... and even. That suggests there is nothing squashed between base and floor that shouldn't be there.

The fact.... it seems to be fact... that there is no discernible movement within the mechanism... between handle and locking pins... would seem to indicate that the problem is higher up, nearer the release handle H. I know this is Audi engineering, but it is still a fairly basic series of mechanical linkages that WILL have detectable movement in it, and this will be felt even if hidden from view. In fact I have created a couple of mm of movement between "L" bracket and locking pin body by using a flat screwdriver as a lever.
I'll leave it for another week for my fingers to recover, and see if anyone else on the forum has any ideas, then I'll gently go for the obvious point of weakness.... the "L" brackets. They are only mild steel and they swivel so, giving them some encouragement and a minimum amount of bending, I should be able to detach them from the arm above that lifts them. I'll then be able to apply far greater force than would be possible with handle H and I can lift or lever the bracket up from the locking pin body and. So long as the locking pins themselves are still operational... the seat will release from the floor.
Once out, I then have the option of repair or replacement.
If the seat still will not release... at least I haven't compromised either utility or safety.
 
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Just a thought, you could remove the front mountings for the stuck seat, if you're prepared to tear the rear carpet on that side where it hooks behind them, or make some small holes or crosses in it. Then you could access the bolts holding the mountings down (M6 spline bit required, not Torx). The holes would be near-invisible afterwards - I've done the same in fitting a rear cupholder bracket to the inner one which I subsequently removed. Once the mountings were removed, that might allow you to get under the seat at the front to give you some more access.
 
Just a thought, you could remove the front mountings for the stuck seat, if you're prepared to tear the rear carpet on that side where it hooks behind them, or make some small holes or crosses in it. Then you could access the bolts holding the mountings down (M6 spline bit required, not Torx). The holes would be near-invisible afterwards - I've done the same in fitting a rear cupholder bracket to the inner one which I subsequently removed. Once the mountings were removed, that might allow you to get under the seat at the front to give you some more access.
It's an idea I suppose, but I think your last sentence says it all.... that it MIGHT work. It might work if, by being able to lift the front edge of the seat by a few inches, it exposes something underneath that is fouling the seat base from sitting down flush or in line. But the seat IS sitting down completely flush... and in line.
I'm not rejecting the suggestion Proghound... just saving it for later.
Meanwhile... any more?

PS. I feel absolutely certain that somewhere in a drawing office in Ingolstadt there will be a filing cabinet full of detailed drawings of A2 seat construction, this release mechanism, it's component parts, and text detailing it's function.
 
It has come to my attention that a member of the A2 community is offering to install rear bench seats in 4-seater A2s by way of a small modification. In response to this, I have updated the opening post of this thread. I shall post my additional comment here, too...

In a collision, the forces upon the seat attachment points are immense. It is absolutely vital that all seats are installed as per Audi's crash-tested design. Anyone claiming to be able to fit a bench seat into a 4-seater A2 (or vice versa) with some modification has clearly failed to understand this. Doing so risks serious injury or death to the rear occupants. If you need to change the rear seating arrangement of your A2, the only solution is to buy a different A2.

Furthermore, carrying out this modification will invalidate your insurance.

Cheers,

Tom
 
It has come to my attention that a member of the A2 community is offering to install rear bench seats in 4-seater A2s by way of a small modification. In response to this, I have updated the opening post of this thread. I shall post my additional comment here, too...

In a collision, the forces upon the seat attachment points are immense. It is absolutely vital that all seats are installed as per Audi's crash-tested design. Anyone claiming to be able to fit a bench seat into a 4-seater A2 (or vice versa) with some modification has clearly failed to understand this. Doing so risks serious injury or death to the rear occupants. If you need to change the rear seating arrangement of your A2, the only solution is to buy a different A2.

Furthermore, carrying out this modification will invalidate your insurance.

Cheers,

Tom
I fully echo Tom’s comments on this totally unsafe modification.
The rear seat mountings are very different and are a vital secure part of the structure.
Please do not try to carry out any such modification. It is NOT safe.
Steve B
 
Seriously dangerous to bodge.

Interesting to see how those modified would pass an MOT test, unless the wrong rear seat was removed before testing. Also the V5 states number of seats and insurance would take a very dim view and perhaps refuse to pay out not only for your car and the other vehicle.

4<-->5 seat conversion and LHD<-->RHD conversion are NOT possible without specialist knowledge, equipment and parts even if someone really wanted it done. They were factory built in those configurations for a reason and type certified accordingly.
 
The MOT testers don’t check design features like that they are not even allowed to fold down the seats to check anything. I guess that nobody would assume that someone would fit the wrong seat setup into a car.

Steve B
 
Further to Tom's message of caution, I'd like to endorse this from the perspective of the A2OC admin.

Under no circumstances does A2OC support this dangerous conversion, nor do we recommend anyone having the modification undertaken or advocate those promoting or actively undertaking the modification.

If anyone needs a 4 to 5 or 5 to 4 seat conversion, the only way to do this safely is to exchange your car for the correct model.

Stay safe everyone.

It has come to my attention that a member of the A2 community is offering to install rear bench seats in 4-seater A2s by way of a small modification. In response to this, I have updated the opening post of this thread. I shall post my additional comment here, too...

In a collision, the forces upon the seat attachment points are immense. It is absolutely vital that all seats are installed as per Audi's crash-tested design. Anyone claiming to be able to fit a bench seat into a 4-seater A2 (or vice versa) with some modification has clearly failed to understand this. Doing so risks serious injury or death to the rear occupants. If you need to change the rear seating arrangement of your A2, the only solution is to buy a different A2.

Furthermore, carrying out this modification will invalidate your insurance.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I briefly owned a 4 seat . So only 4 people in the car which wasn't always ideal. Split seat is useful. Can carry some b&q stuff and 3 people.
I now have a 5 seat . Great the option of 4 or 5 people !
Bench seat means I cannot carry bulky items and 3 people . However towbar allows several options I've got a Bakrak and a trailer covers most things.

I support the sensible comments by others.
Some things just can't be solved in the way you hope so you have to find an alternative solution.
Be safe and enjoy your A2 however it's configured .

Sent from my Nokia C01 Plus using Tapatalk
 
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