A Polo that won't rust :)

B4Andra

Member
So I have decided to stick in a wee bit of a thread to discuss the work I'm doing on a recent A2 purchase.

Throwing this together as it's very cathartic to put your thoughts down and get some ideas!

Got a load of work to do on this car, a not exhaustive list....

1 - Petrol flap button - disintigrated
2 - Rear brakes - rotten looking and crap handbrake
3 - Weeping front shock
4 - Smashed rear bump stops
5 - Broken taillight
6 - Rear seats won't fold down
7 - Odd front wishbones (pressed steel and cast)
8 - Broken drop link cover
9 - Oil weep from back of engine (believe it's oil separator)
10 - Oil weep from front of engine (Oil filler cap)
11 - Rough running
12 - Coolant pipes running to throttle body not plumbed in? WTF?
13 - Full service - timing belt etc.

Car was bought for my partners father who had a bit of a rough time recently so we are sorting him out a motor.

Why an A2, well when we were looking for a car we thought "you can't go wrong with a Polo", Polo's are solid and awesome. The budget was tight, and there was a massive vacuum in the cars that were available between buttons and around 3k. I put that down to the scrappage scheme, cars that would have been available just now for the kind of money we were looking to spend on a good one simply don't exist anymore! So all the cars we saw for buttons were starting to rot, so how do you get a Polo without rust? My experience with my own D2 S8 answered that question!

So the one we found was local, and very cheap, £800. A 1.6 FSI. I bought it un-driven from eBay, I saw the car but didn't get to drive it before buying (the guy wasn't in his house when we went round to view, apparently a hospital thing, his story was a bit wooly). When I saw the car I noticed the oil weep, but no dripping so I wasn't too worried. Didn't notice the mis-matched wishbones at the time which I'm disappointed in myself for but what can you do?! Did notice that most of the underside of the car was very clean, even the steelwork so that, and it's immaculate MOT history (only a couple of minor advisories years and years ago) convinced me to just take the punt, so I did.

Picking the car up I noticed the steering was a little bit twitchy but not bad, the engine was a bit rough, but settled down at higher revs - not an ignition coil then. Got her home, into the garage and stuck my head amongst the car, was very happy after that, car doesn't look like it's had any hits ever, the thing is straight everywhere I look.

So straight up onto axle-stands and start ripping bits off!

Picture of the car from eBay ad -
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First job - petrol flap button.

So thanks to some googling and probably from this forum I discover there's 3 fixes to the petrol flap problem but I have a fair idea which one it is, there's some old packing tape around the button... Turns out the button has no innards. £20 later and it's one of the easiest car fixes I ever did!
 
Rear Brakes and Suspension

Stripped off the rear brakes, the disks were very rotten looking. My experience with Audi brakes immediatly had me on the back foot here, the pistons / sliders / auto adjusters on my S8 / Cabrio / old 80's have all frozen up. So I didn't mess around, I just got online and bought some new callipers and disks etc. One of the callipers was missing a clip that holds the handbrake cable in place, along with the return spring. When stripped down I discovered there's also about 2mm of crap hard compacted onto the carrier - under the brake tinware.... So the reason for the rust was found! The pads had to be hammered out, they simply wouldn't budge. Didn't want anything to do with those brakes so they were ripped off, the carriers are cleaned up ready to receive the new callipers.

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Onto the shock absorbers, now I didn't bother reading up in advance so I just battered in to remove the top mount so that I can get the broken bump stops fixed. I pulled all the trim out the side of the boot looking for the bolts to remove... :D Yes, that's what I did, here's the picture.

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So felt rather stupid when I realised how easy it actually was to remove the struts! Not all wasted time, the back seats were well and truly jammed in place, the base wasn't clicked in properly for both seats and a fair bit of advice from this forum sorted that out!

My first big disappointment... Turns out the rear struts are also leaking, but from the outside they look dry. :(

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New rear struts ordered to go with the fronts... Got the Monroe ones because bizarrely the rust had formed around the original markings and they were legible! I love an OEM part cheap also, got the pair of rears for £60.
 
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The front are not so easily changed, especially the drivers side, those 3 top mount bolts are challenging to get to
Also replace the top mounts whilst you are in there, they will be knackerd
Also replace the drop links with Miele HD ones and the anti role bar bushes very cheap, you need the polo 16mm Dia ARB unless the plastic sleeves are still present on your ARB (very unlikely). I also fit a jubilee clip on either side of the car on the ARB to prevent it moving

Cheers
 
Removing Front Brakes and Suspension.

I absolutely hate the design of these shocks at the front, that pinch and hoop affair is just crap if you ask me, but it seems the way VAG have gone with all of these size motors. Last shock I did was on a new shape A3, exactly the same setup and caused me lots of grief!

Some good news on the front brakes, they are recent, plenty of meat on pads and disks seem fairly fresh, no concerns, clean up the sliders and these will go back on!

The front passenger side shock was weeping, so I knew that was coming off anyway. The mis-matched arms were getting matched, so the passenger side was the pressed steel, cast ordered!

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So popped the arm off, well go to the point where I tried to get it out of what I learned later was the "console", so the whole thing is off to get the damn arm out of it.

I was seriously worried about destroying that bush (he he) when I was getting the arm out. But rigged something up that did the job nicely, the new arm slipped in nice and easy with some washing up liquid.

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I ended up ordering a stack of bolts from Audi because I'm paranoid about re-using stretch bolts. Listed here if they aren't already somewhere else on here!

x6 - N 0195308 - Top Mount Bolts
x2 - N 10207804 - Pinch Bolt
x2 - N 10106402 - Pinch Nut
x1 - N 10640301 - Wishbone to console bolt
x2 - N 10628601 - Subframe (Console) to body bolt
x2 - N 10492102 - Steering rack bolt

This list also covers the load of bolts I'm waiting for to do both the front shocks, the pinch bolts are also a worry! These nuts and bolts aren't cheap... :(

So the drivers side shock removal, what a PITA. My fingers are all cut to bits un-doing the brackets holding on the brake fluid reservoir and then the top mount bolts. And to top it all off, when I get to the top mount it falls apart and the ball bearings are everywhere.

New top-mounts ordered from EuroCarParts, £45 for a pair so not the worst, but still frustrating.
 
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The front are not so easily changed, especially the drivers side, those 3 top mount bolts are challenging to get to
Also replace the top mounts whilst you are in there, they will be knackerd
Also replace the drop links with Miele HD ones and the anti role bar bushes very cheap, you need the polo 16mm Dia ARB unless the plastic sleeves are still present on your ARB (very unlikely). I also fit a jubilee clip on either side of the car on the ARB to prevent it moving

Cheers

Are the ARB's really that sensitve, if so then that ship has sailed, the bar is currently free and flapping, both struts are off the front of the car and 1 drop link is removed entirely. Also to get the "console" out I had to remove the caps for one of the bushes. I understand the theory of don't tighten until it's on the ground, I wonder if it's worth slacking the other cap off and re-tightening when it's back on it's own wheels again.

As above, you were right about the knackered top mounts, well one of them was anyway!
 
you are wasting you time with the Euro car parts top mounts, you will be doing them again in 12 to 18 months time, same thing with the drop links
The Miele ones are the ones you need, not expensive on Ebay either, I fitted loads of these for members on here and they are a fit and forget job
The ARB bushes should be a tightish bit, if the ARB is free to move then they are worn and will knock, replace the bushes whilst at it they are under a fiver for the pair
note the Polo ones are what you need unless the plastic sleeves are still intact on your role bar, the jubilee clip is there to prevent end float
also do not remove the rust from the ARB where the rubber bush fits, rust is good to prevent rotation
The Miele HD drop links are the dogs dankly bits and they just last and last

Cheers,
 
Had a look, I will need the 16mm ones by the look of things. That's what the part number throws up anyways - 6Q0411314L
Can't see a plastic insert, it doesn't look like there has ever been one.

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Had a look, I will need the 16mm ones by the look of things. That's what the part number throws up anyways - 6Q0411314L
Can't see a plastic insert, it doesn't look like there has ever been one.

View attachment 38566 View attachment 38565

Your lucky you have the redesigned arb so the jubilee clip is not required as the collar is welded in place these never had plastic sleeves and yes you need the 16mm rubber bushing


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Fitting New Rear Brakes and Rear Shocks.

Finally got hold of all the hardware I needed to do the rear brakes at the weekend, this included new handbrake return springs, the handbrake retaining clips, new banjo bolts and washers, new disks & pads. Brand new callipers are awesome. I love bolting all this stuff up, it's quite satisfying. New shocks also bolted up ready to go, another of the real easy jobs on this car (if you don't go looking for the top bolt in the wrong place!).

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Removing Intake

So have started on the intake strip down, the first thing I discovered was that the throttle body is wrong for the car, looks like it's off a 1.8 or 2.0 of the same era, completely different part number, has had parts ground off to make it fit, the vaccum and breather connections rigged up with some random pipe and the coolant connections lying open.

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So that's something else I need to replace. Still trying to decide if I can jury rig this one to make it work better, longer coolant pipes and some JB weld to remove the two unnecessary vacuum/breather ports.

Trying to figure out why this one has been used, is it a cheap fix using whatever parts were lying around, or is this a know "upgrade" to increase the size of the throttle body?

So dug further down, was planning on removing the inlet manifold, but it's looking like a mammoth piece of work... Have the EGR valve off and the low pressure fuel side of things disconnected, but is it really worth digging further?

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Maybe the state of the walls of the intake manifold answer that question for me.

Maybe I'm starting to regret getting a 1.6 instead of the 1.4...?
 
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Removing Intake

So have started on the intake strip down, the first thing I discovered was that the throttle body is wrong for the car, looks like it's off a 1.8 or 2.0 of the same era, completely different part number, has had parts ground off to make it fit, the vaccum and breather connections rigged up with some random pipe and the coolant connections lying open.

View attachment 38706View attachment 38707

So that's something else I need to replace. Still trying to decide if I can jury rig this one to make it work better, longer coolant pipes and some JB weld to remove the two unnecessary vacuum/breather ports.

Trying to figure out why this one has been used, is it a cheap fix using whatever parts were lying around, or is this a know "upgrade" to increase the size of the throttle body?

So dug further down, was planning on removing the inlet manifold, but it's looking like a mammoth piece of work... Have the EGR valve off and the low pressure fuel side of things disconnected, but is it really worth digging further?

View attachment 38708

Maybe the state of the walls of the intake manifold answer that question for me.

Maybe I'm starting to regret getting a 1.6 instead of the 1.4...?

As per your Facebook post I’ve got an FSI throttle body available feel free to PM me to discuss.
 
Great posts so far! I'd love the 1.6FSI if i had the ability to do what you're doing. However I don't so went for a 1.4 which I am told is more reliable for the most part. Not as fun to drive though!
 
In-take Off!

See what I did there!? Bahahahahahaha. Anyway, this has to be one of the most awkward intakes to remove I have dealt with. Lots of things discovered tonight. Someone was there before me.... How do I know? I unbolted all the bolts from the top of the intake, and it just fell away, I knew there was 2 at the bottom, but I didn't have to touch them. Worrying.

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So after cajoling the engine on it's hoist, I got the manifold out. What a mare it was, when I got it out I could see how coked up it all was.

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Looks dreadful, but anyway, carried on. Got the flaps out, they look actually easy to clean up, and seem to work as expected! The wee video shows them operating, covering the vacuum hole seems to hold the flaps nicely.... I reckon the actuator looks pretty good.

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- video of flaps working.

I knew there was a random unplugged connector under the manifold, with it out the way I could finally lay eyes on it. But couldn't see anywhere for it to go....
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Until I had a look at the back of the engine around the oil separator...

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So my theory is that random cable number 1 goes into random connector number 1.... (I have no idea what it's purpose is....) It's the only unplugged thing I have found, but the cable just isn't long enough. I reckon the reason for that is the cable isn't routed properly... Looks like someone has pissed around with the coolant pipes at some point and ran this loom over the top where I think it should probably go below these coolant pipes, maybe someone can look at their engine and confirm for me please? Coolant pipes have red arrows, wire on left over the top. I think that once that loom is put below the pipes we might be able to plug that connector in.

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Back to the oil separator, I had thought initially that the separator was the source of the weepy leak from the engine, now I'm thinking that the breather has never been fitted in properly (along with the missing screws etc). I think that's most likely the cause of the following-
  1. It'll let air in, defeating the MAF
  2. the vacuum will be crap, probably causing the "set point not reached" problem I saw on the huge list of problems on the ECU.
I reckon someone's been bodging back here - the bolts for the manifold were fully tight....

The oil being all over the housing, below the outlet, for me gives away that the breather wasn't on right, also the missing bolts at the back of the inlet shows whoever was last here didn't bother with it.

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The injectors came out next, fascinated by them because of the high pressure, but read that this high pressure fuel line really should be replaced when fitting back together? Is that correct? Has anyone re-used the fuel line and had terrible things happen? It looks solid, it looks re-usable! The injector I removed has a bit of a crap seal at the end there, lucky I have a new set for each injector.

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So what's next? Pop the coolant hoses out, move the cable below the coolant hoses and plug the mystory connector into it's mystery thing. Clean up the intake, find out if someone will come to my house and walnut blast my valves (is that a thing, portable walnut blasting?), replace injector seals, bolt it all back up and make sure it's all in the right order with fresh gaskets. Make sure the breather plugs in properly.

Also a shout out to my tub of VAG bolts, which has the missing bolts I need!

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Evening,

Great write up, enjoyable to read, thanks, all the pictures bring it to life.

My guess on your mystery sensor is the Yaw sensor which I know is located somewhere near the so called death pipe (chunky rigid plastic pipe from thermostat housing to coolant pump on BAD engine), seen in a couple of your images.

To help I can do my best to identify the correct route of you "short" wire on Thursday (sorry not tomorrow). I have my project FSI over a full size pit but the engine is in situ and with the upper inlet manifold in place I wonder if I can. I will study your annotated picture and do my best and post some images if I think it will help.

Some other random thoughts ...

Always recommended to replace the death pipe when able to so.
I have read dozens of FSI flap problem threads and never seen anything about replacing high pressure fuel lines.
I know the flaps have been known to deform and stick (causing problems!) on the the horizontal fins in the ports on the block. Check.
A workaround to access those missing manifold bolts is normally something like remove some engine mountings and tilt the block forward supporting bottom of engine on a jack. Sorry never done so cannot be explicit.

Unfortunately your 'watch if you dare' video does not work.

Andy
 
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Video sorted, I don't think they are jamming because they did move freely when on the car with the actuator, just think vacuum problems may be stifling their operation.

Both the Bosch instructions and the Audi Worksop manual are insistent on the pipe being replaced, but I can't see any good reason to do that.... But I'm no high pressure line expert! I know a guy that's a hydraulic fitter, I'll maybe ask him what's going on although I think I already know his answer!

I'm 90% sure that cable is for that socket with the correct wire routing, I guess if the plugs are the same and actually fit it's an even better indication!

The car's currently sitting with an engine lifter type thing, that sits on the inside of each wing and has a chain that holds the engine up, that's let me pull the engine forward - something you really have to do to get the manifold out.
 
Whilst there out I’d get those injectors cleaned 48hr service from http://www.injectortune.co.uk/ they did mine to be re fitted next week.. and also replace “the pipe of death” as mentioned above.. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/172802007009 it will save you doing it again.. those flaps do look rather dirty.. ?.. replace all gaskets and bolts and you should have a very clean “working” FSI..
Pipe of death had me concerned, doesn't look bad but it's called the "pipe of death", for a tenner I'll just get it done.

Asking them how much for the injector clean if I supply the sealing rings etc.
 
Pipe of death had me concerned, doesn't look bad but it's called the "pipe of death", for a tenner I'll just get it done.

Asking them how much for the injector clean if I supply the sealing rings etc.

Mine cost £58 for the 4 injectors for a 48hr service with special delivery return, I supplied my own rings and such also so I’d expect the same price ??
 
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