A Polo that won't rust :)

Apparently I don’t have permission to view that page or perform that action!
The link worked for me, probably something to with you being a new member.

Anyway what you need to know. Simply send Tom a PM to CreweAudi asking him for the price on the bracket including the part number of the bracket, maybe a brief description as a cross check and to forestall multiple variants include your reg.

Now is a good time to send it becuase he has mentioned he tends to check messages Monday 9:00 to see what the weekend brought in.

Andy
 
No idea why you got the 'permission' message but it was just a link to Tom's PM details

This is his e.mail address if you want to send a direct message - [email protected]

Cheers Spike

OOPS, Andrew beat me to it but his email details are still useful
 
Brakes Restored

Got the brakes all put back together, had to use the insert kit to do the job.
IMG_0617.jpeg

I have to admit I was quite worried about using this kit, doesn't seem like the correct thing to do. I really should be replacing the hub, but the expense of doing that along with the time taken.... Anyway did a fair bit of googling and couldn't really find any situation where a properly fitted insert had caused a brake failure, so I ploughed on.

54592549821__CC38096B-D06F-4C67-A99B-762C0970DB34.jpeg54592596950__847C97C9-0372-4E7E-848B-9FA0BD8076EF.jpeg

I reamed out the other hole using the tap provided in the kit - so that I could fit the slider in hassle-free, which then allowed me to use the spacer and the drill to drill out the other hole, using a tonne of WD40 of course.

54592782538__EF11C5B3-2F5C-46BB-B441-DEEF86B87935.jpeg

Then I used an old nut & bolt to press the insert into place, along with some red Loctite to keep it there. The inserts are shouldered so that when you tighten up the slider it pulls against that shoulder, kind of like a nut and bolt arrangement, making sure that it stays exactly in place. I was worried that it would just pop out if it was all flush.

IMG_0627.jpegIMG_0638.jpeg

My other worry was clearance with that shoulder there, but it looks like there's a few mm between it and the pads, so all good. The pics of this aren't brilliant.

Ultimately, it's reached the final goal, rebuilt brakes!

All the bleed nipples moved fine, there's aways a worry that they are rotten and ceased. So all new fluid all round!

54593205578__8964D853-E4B7-4E1C-A922-0C0607C019FB.jpeg
 
Throttle Bodies

So you can see a side-by-side comparison of the 2 throttle bodies, the one that came with the car and the one that's correct for the car. There's about a 10mm difference in diameter (just by eye) between the two. The previous owner has tried to squeeze more power out with the bigger bore body. But that's not what we are interested in, I want the thing to run right, the way it was intended to run for the in-laws, along with the fuel economy and reliability. So the correct throttle body will be restored!

IMG_0715.jpg

But to be fair, it does look like it's nearly a direct swap, the coolant and vacuum pipes aside... I'll keep hold of the bigger one, just in case I find a use for it.....

It was rebuilt today, the coolant pipes to the throttle body, I'm not 100% about those, so here's the before and after pictures, and how I decided it probably should be... If it doesn't look right it would be appreciated if someone gave me a heads up! :)

IMG_1136.jpgIMG_1137.jpg
 
Refit Inlet - Service!

So today I got battered on with the inlet manifold, everything cleaned up and looking good, it all got bolted back together. Nothing too much of note, just a few quick snaps - that crankshaft bolt is a real killer, 150NM + 180 degrees was interesting... Anyway that pulley holder came into it's own!

IMG_1134.jpgIMG_1135.jpgIMG_1139.jpg54687667780__B4400C9F-1FB4-4FC7-9E5F-3816651C583B.jpegIMG_1140.jpg

All straight-forward, until we get to the oil filter...

I'd like to meet the designer who thought that was a good idea.... The filter that was on the car hadn't been changed for some time, and was not interested in coming off! I had to use the last resort method, after my straps and removal tools all failed... Hammer a screwdriver in and turn it until it was loose. Took a lot of time messing around, hours. Eventually it came free. Luckily Mr Bosch thought to fashion a nut on the end of his filters to avoid this in future....

IMG_1141.jpg54689029917__FA3825F4-8C60-44CA-90BA-906FFDCC2FE5.jpeg
 
It started!

So finally got it started, and after a terrible few seconds of tappet rattle it settles down... And idles like a pig. Gutted. But... The EML light is staying off for now. The "pending" codes the engine is reporting is a mis-fire on cylinder 1 - and that's all.... So I'll take that as a positive and assume that an ignition coil is dying. I'll swap it with another cylinder, clear the codes and try again, see if the problem also moves, that would make for a nice easy fix. It is still a bit gutting after all the work that's gone into it, to still have a problem... But at least none of the other codes that were there are being thrown again. Progress!
 
Well done, an inspiring thread especially in the the time scale.

The FSI engine always sounds strange for the first few seconds. On the rough idling I seem to remember a VCDS throttle body calibration is needed and the inlet flaps adapted, again with VCDS.

Andy
 
I don't think that the calibration will sort the rough running, if only it was so simple! :-(

Swapped the first 2 ignition coils (assuming cylinder 1 is next to the timing belt), and cleared the errors. Started it back up and it's still reporting a misfire on Cylinder 1. When it's running there's quite a tappety noise so will take it out tonight after work for a bit of a run and see if it'll clear the tappet rattle. If not then it's rocker off time :-(

Has anyone replaced the tappets on these? I'm assuming it's fairly straight forward with the camshaft out the way? Anything that might trip me up?
 
I also think it's probably time I invested in some of that good VCDS action! Got 3 old Audi's now I can use it on and I'm unlikely to buy outside of the VAG group's back catalog any time soon, so will probably make it's investment back and then some. Is the full VCDS worthwhile or just the "lite" version?
 
Inspiring information, thank you. I'll get the FSI running now, well, as soon as I get two Focus(es?) out of the way and finish the second TDI. :)
 
Inspiring information, thank you. I'll get the FSI running now, well, as soon as I get two Focus(es?) out of the way and finish the second TDI. :)
Have done similar work to other motors in the past to get them up and running, if the info of someone tackling these motors with little experience themselves and never having had touched one before is helpful to someone else then I’m glad :)
 
I also think it's probably time I invested in some of that good VCDS action! Got 3 old Audi's now I can use it on and I'm unlikely to buy outside of the VAG group's back catalog any time soon, so will probably make it's investment back and then some. Is the full VCDS worthwhile or just the "lite" version?
Genuine VCDS is not cheap. There was a short discussion on purchasing VCDS quite recently which may be of interest.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/cheapest-way-into-vcds.35136/

As to VCDS Lite, best if somebody who uses it comments, but you mention reading and clearing codes so it sounds to me you have something similiar. I gather with the Lite version you cannot do fancy a stuff like live monitoring of engine functions, adaptations etc.

Hope this helps.

Andy
 
I have a handy wee vag code reader which itself has lots of functions but I don’t think it’ll do the calibration stuff.

Sad news, I have now swapped the coil (assuming 1 is next to timing belt?) and the earth strap has been cleaned up and refitted. Still no joy. Bag of spanners.

Will take it a run to work and back (all in 50 miles) to see if it’s a sticky valve or similar but after that it’s a compression test then potentially a head refurb. Not something I had planned on the expense and time of... You pay your money you takes your chances.
 
I have a handy wee vag code reader which itself has lots of functions but I don’t think it’ll do the calibration stuff.

Sad news, I have now swapped the coil (assuming 1 is next to timing belt?) and the earth strap has been cleaned up and refitted. Still no joy. Bag of spanners.

Will take it a run to work and back (all in 50 miles) to see if it’s a sticky valve or similar but after that it’s a compression test then potentially a head refurb. Not something I had planned on the expense and time of... You pay your money you takes your chances.
Did you thoroughly check the earth strap, mine looked great though was effectively disconnected under the heat shrink.
 
So the car is back on wheels, a few things nipped up and tightened, I'll take her for a test drive tomorrow. Turns out the gadget I have (borrowed!) does have the function to set the TB after-all...

IMG_1147.jpgIMG_1148.jpg

A bizarre thing happened while I was putting the instrument cluster back together again tonight... The blower fan kicked in... The ignition had been on for about 10 mins, and I did nothing to fix it, it just kicked in on it's own... I ran it through all the speeds and it seemed to work, but at high speed it seems to have a bit of vibration, so it might end up getting replaced anyway. But at least it's now getting replaced in the future and not now! :)
 
Also today, I bought an A4 B5 climate control unit to liberate the buttons from. When you look through the A2 climate control panels that are for sale there's so many with the buttons all rubbed away to nothing, but all the A4 ones, the buttons are clear. So while I could get an A2 one with just a very slight wear but still clear buttons - I'm more confident that the A4 ones will just remain clear forever!

I also think the worn buttons look worse than any slight variation on the shade of black!
 
Back
Top