A well trodden path and yes the blacker black of the A4 buttons is a small price to pay for the improvement on worn soft touch buttons and not that much difference anyway, but I must admit I sprayed my front panel to match the buttons.
Andy
A Polo that won't rust :)
- Thread starter B4Andra
- Start date
A well trodden path and yes the blacker black of the A4 buttons is a small price to pay for the improvement on worn soft touch buttons and not that much difference anyway, but I must admit I sprayed my front panel to match the buttons.
Andy
But did it sort the rough idling? - Andy
B4Andra
Member
I don't know because by the time I finished messing around with it I had too many beers and it's too late to get it out the garage!
I'll take it a spin tomorrow, but I'm not optimistic!
B4Andra
Member
Took It For A Run... Here's the results.
To start with when cold it continued to mis-fire. I took it out. First thing's first, the brake pedal has a fair bit of travel. At first I considered parking back up, but the brakes did work... Eventually. The test drive continued, lots of engine braking. Lots of distance between me and the car in front. Maybe if everyone drove around with utterly s..t brakes there would be less crashes on account of the amount of space you leave!
As the drive went on the engine seemed happier. The tappet noise seemed to be, at least out on the road a bit more settled. It did however seem a touch lumpy.... Took it out on the dual carriage way, got up to speed. Car seemed fine, apart from the odd lumpiness...
Got within about 500 yards of the house, the oil warning displays followed by a buzzer flashing away! Oh no! But.... if I had lost all that oil, where did it go? I'd expect the back of the car to be caked in it, but it simply wasn't. The absolutely useless oil dipstick showed that oil existed, from what I gather that's as good as you can hope. I stuck 4l in from dry, which I understand is probably plenty for this engine from dry.
My theory is that the oil sensor thing on the bottom of the engine was dry for around 3 weeks, the engine sat oil-less. I reckon that maybe the oil sensor is a bit sticky... If it happens again I'll strip it off and eyeball it.
Worse, when the car was stopped for a minute while I contemplated the future, the thing refused to start back up. It just sat there turning over. Gave it some beans and it spluttered back to life. After that it seemed as it was before, rough idle. So I parked it up and walked away.
The codes read that there was once again a misfire on cyl 1 and something or other to do with the cam adjustment. When it eventually got started again the camshaft code had vanished and that cyl 1 misfire was left, starting at me! These all appear as "pending codes", not sure what that implies, maybe they need to be an error for a length of time or between runs before they become "stored codes"?
Oh, and the EML didn't come on at all. Despite the slight roughness.
So my thoughts now are.........
There was about 10 minutes of driving where it was actually a pleasant wee car, when stopped at lights the idle seemed far steadier, it accelerated without grief, the suspension work seems to have been good, no clunks rattles or bangs and it went over bumps nicely, I was very happy with it.... For a while!
The only reason I'm happy to stick with it is - there's no smoke, there's no milky oil, there's none of the worst red flags. I still believe it's a good motor fundamentally...
To start with when cold it continued to mis-fire. I took it out. First thing's first, the brake pedal has a fair bit of travel. At first I considered parking back up, but the brakes did work... Eventually. The test drive continued, lots of engine braking. Lots of distance between me and the car in front. Maybe if everyone drove around with utterly s..t brakes there would be less crashes on account of the amount of space you leave!
As the drive went on the engine seemed happier. The tappet noise seemed to be, at least out on the road a bit more settled. It did however seem a touch lumpy.... Took it out on the dual carriage way, got up to speed. Car seemed fine, apart from the odd lumpiness...
Got within about 500 yards of the house, the oil warning displays followed by a buzzer flashing away! Oh no! But.... if I had lost all that oil, where did it go? I'd expect the back of the car to be caked in it, but it simply wasn't. The absolutely useless oil dipstick showed that oil existed, from what I gather that's as good as you can hope. I stuck 4l in from dry, which I understand is probably plenty for this engine from dry.
My theory is that the oil sensor thing on the bottom of the engine was dry for around 3 weeks, the engine sat oil-less. I reckon that maybe the oil sensor is a bit sticky... If it happens again I'll strip it off and eyeball it.
Worse, when the car was stopped for a minute while I contemplated the future, the thing refused to start back up. It just sat there turning over. Gave it some beans and it spluttered back to life. After that it seemed as it was before, rough idle. So I parked it up and walked away.
The codes read that there was once again a misfire on cyl 1 and something or other to do with the cam adjustment. When it eventually got started again the camshaft code had vanished and that cyl 1 misfire was left, starting at me! These all appear as "pending codes", not sure what that implies, maybe they need to be an error for a length of time or between runs before they become "stored codes"?
Oh, and the EML didn't come on at all. Despite the slight roughness.
So my thoughts now are.........
- Bleed the brakes. Get that sorted as a priority before I get back in for a drive. I used an easy bleed, but it looks like the tyre pressure has been a tad lower than it really needed to be to bleed properly. Also I hate bleeding VAG cars after they have gone dry, every mechanic I speak to also says it's a pig to get them right. My old 80 Cabrio was the same. My S8 was the same, now this A2 is the same, they just seem a total pig to bleed.
- Fuel filter. I haven't replaced this yet. I need to do that. I also reckon the car sat for a good while, when I got it there was a touch of mould growing inside. So it's a safe bet the fuel is old and probably not up to scratch. Maybe the cause of the misfire? I doubt it. Possibly the cause of the poor hot start? Either way, it wants doing.
- I have bought a Forte fluid that is essentially "shut up tappets". Well that's what I'm calling it. Know some mechanics that swear by it.
There was about 10 minutes of driving where it was actually a pleasant wee car, when stopped at lights the idle seemed far steadier, it accelerated without grief, the suspension work seems to have been good, no clunks rattles or bangs and it went over bumps nicely, I was very happy with it.... For a while!
The only reason I'm happy to stick with it is - there's no smoke, there's no milky oil, there's none of the worst red flags. I still believe it's a good motor fundamentally...
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Life' not fair.
Some trivial thoughts as I read your post, nothing really.
1. With some of the unusual items you have come across with this car it has obviously been meddled with and I was wondering if you have ever seen the the engine icon on the dash? Interfering with EML lights by masking seems rife to facilitate a sale. I assume you have checked the usual dash lights on startup.
2. No help I know but VCDS will efficiently bleed the brakes.
3. Injector number 1 is looming as the the misfire culprit. BoxyA2 has some used ones for sale.
I trust the next intended owner will be grateful for all your effort.
Chin up, have another beer.
Andy
Some trivial thoughts as I read your post, nothing really.
1. With some of the unusual items you have come across with this car it has obviously been meddled with and I was wondering if you have ever seen the the engine icon on the dash? Interfering with EML lights by masking seems rife to facilitate a sale. I assume you have checked the usual dash lights on startup.
2. No help I know but VCDS will efficiently bleed the brakes.
3. Injector number 1 is looming as the the misfire culprit. BoxyA2 has some used ones for sale.
I trust the next intended owner will be grateful for all your effort.
Chin up, have another beer.
Andy
B4Andra
Member
The EML light was lit when I bought the car... And of course I had to remove the electrical tape covering it....
I didn't realise I'd need the to meddle with the ABS to get the thing bled... I was under the impression it was more straightforward on these motors.
I had the injectors all cleaned up by the injectortune guy, he noted no issues with the injectors
He had better be grateful!
I didn't realise I'd need the to meddle with the ABS to get the thing bled... I was under the impression it was more straightforward on these motors.
I had the injectors all cleaned up by the injectortune guy, he noted no issues with the injectors
He had better be grateful!
Vonnie
A2OC donor
Hi
The link Spike posted is within the Market Place Forum, which is only accessible once you upgrade your account to Paid Member (nominal £2 fee).
If you would like access to the Market Place Forum and are not sure how
1. Select your icon from the top menu bar
2. Select ‘Account Upgrade’ from the table of options displayed
3. This will display a Button that links to PayPal to purchase the upgrade
Regards Yvonne
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B4Andra
Member
Brakes and ABS re-bled... Properly.
So that’s the ABS pump re-bled, I use the gadget to run through the bleeding process, a bit weird of a thing getting the pump to run, but after I was finished I re-bled the rest. A load of bubbles came out when bleading the front-offside, so that’s where the problems were. Got a lovely stiff pedal when I checked after, even with the engine running and the server kicked in, the pedal feels good.
So that’s the ABS pump re-bled, I use the gadget to run through the bleeding process, a bit weird of a thing getting the pump to run, but after I was finished I re-bled the rest. A load of bubbles came out when bleading the front-offside, so that’s where the problems were. Got a lovely stiff pedal when I checked after, even with the engine running and the server kicked in, the pedal feels good.
B4Andra
Member
Engine progress...
So back to basics. Is there compression?
So there is, and it’s even enough all over the 4 cylinders.
I don’t know what the exact figures should be, but I’m happy that there’s none wildy out.
So is there spark, lots of folks complaining about ignition coils, lets check if there’s actually a spark there... So I took the plugs out (when doing the compression test) and put them into the coils and sat them on the cylinder head upside down so I could see them. I then recorded them using slowmotion video. What did we do before mobile phones?!
https://youtu.be/jcApTH-Og0
So there is good spark, I felt that spark on cylinder 1 (where it was complaning about mis-fire) was a very bright spark, perhaps the plug is an issue, moved it to cylinder 2 and it’s just as bright, so replaced it. Left the replacement in cylinder 2. A part of me thought “oh please let it be as simple as a duff spark plug!”
Started her up. Still missing. Codes still showing cylinder 1 misfire. Cleared codes, tried again, still cylinder 1 misfire.
Every cloud has a silver lining, not something which has concerned me or even been on the radar but noticed it when I was close to taking a sledghammer to the head... Looks like the AC works, noticed the condensation on the pipes and felt them, they were cold!
Decided to move on to the fuel filter as my last job tonight, saw the state of this screw and then made a very solid decision that the job was for another day......
So the plan for now is that I have stuck in the oil additive that I’m calling “shut up tappets”. I will get the fuel filter replaced, get it back on wheels once again and take it for a drive. After that I’m going to have to contemplate taking the inlet off again to replace the inector on number 1. Fuel delivery is all that’s left to cause problems on Cylinder 1..... I might try giving injector 1 a “technical tap” first.... Thre’s nothing to lose.
So back to basics. Is there compression?
So there is, and it’s even enough all over the 4 cylinders.
I don’t know what the exact figures should be, but I’m happy that there’s none wildy out.
So is there spark, lots of folks complaining about ignition coils, lets check if there’s actually a spark there... So I took the plugs out (when doing the compression test) and put them into the coils and sat them on the cylinder head upside down so I could see them. I then recorded them using slowmotion video. What did we do before mobile phones?!
https://youtu.be/jcApTH-Og0
So there is good spark, I felt that spark on cylinder 1 (where it was complaning about mis-fire) was a very bright spark, perhaps the plug is an issue, moved it to cylinder 2 and it’s just as bright, so replaced it. Left the replacement in cylinder 2. A part of me thought “oh please let it be as simple as a duff spark plug!”
Started her up. Still missing. Codes still showing cylinder 1 misfire. Cleared codes, tried again, still cylinder 1 misfire.
Every cloud has a silver lining, not something which has concerned me or even been on the radar but noticed it when I was close to taking a sledghammer to the head... Looks like the AC works, noticed the condensation on the pipes and felt them, they were cold!
Decided to move on to the fuel filter as my last job tonight, saw the state of this screw and then made a very solid decision that the job was for another day......
So the plan for now is that I have stuck in the oil additive that I’m calling “shut up tappets”. I will get the fuel filter replaced, get it back on wheels once again and take it for a drive. After that I’m going to have to contemplate taking the inlet off again to replace the inector on number 1. Fuel delivery is all that’s left to cause problems on Cylinder 1..... I might try giving injector 1 a “technical tap” first.... Thre’s nothing to lose.
B4Andra
Member
I knew I saw it somewhere! Looks like the engine is within the limits as for the compression tests.
https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a...alve_gear/cylinder_head/checking_compression/
Not overly worried about being at the bottom end of the values, the compression tester I’m using is about a million years old, and the engine had’t been warmed and lubricated properly. I guess if you did the test a few minutes after she was running you’d get a higher figure.
https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a...alve_gear/cylinder_head/checking_compression/
Not overly worried about being at the bottom end of the values, the compression tester I’m using is about a million years old, and the engine had’t been warmed and lubricated properly. I guess if you did the test a few minutes after she was running you’d get a higher figure.
Pinkythelabrat
A2OC Donor
This is a saga and I really hope it goes well with the fuel filter. I'm in Glasgow and would love to help but I'm useless - sorry. Moral support is available though. 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
B4Andra
Member
It’s ok, I’m taking much solace from “The drink”! It’s not too bad to be fair, a litlle dishartening, but it’s not currently a priority in my life, just pottering away with it as I get the time.Have loaned out our A3 to the in-law and I’m back to driving the fair-weather convertible so there’s no rush for anything! There’s really not much more to fix, it just so happens that replacing that injector will take a shift to doThis is a saga and I really hope it goes well with the fuel filter. I'm in Glasgow and would love to help but I'm useless - sorry. Moral support is available though.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Never mind!Yes, but surely the bottom end value of 10, according to your table, was 14 years ago! and nowhere near the wear limit value of 7 even after all the the miles the engine has done. I would be very happy with all your values and as you comment consistent.
Nearly there.
Andy
B4Andra
Member
NEW INJECTOR
It's taken a bit of time for me to get through the range of emotions, disbelief, disappointment, anger (still have that, will never buy an other direct injection car), sleepiness, but I bought the new injector through the week. It arrived on Friday. Sun has gone today, so a quick strip and rebuild of half the car for a Sunday.
So got battered in, took the throttle body off and the first thing I noticed is that some clown that worked on the car before today may have managed to forget one bolt on the throttle body.... Oh dear...
Also discovered how to avoid getting pressurised fuel over everything. Pop the pump fuse, start it and let it run till it runs dry. Actually easy and kinda obvious, but well every day is a school day.
Battered on, one loose bolt wasn't causing a persistent mis-fire on 1 cylinder.
Turns out that stripping and rebuilding takes a lot less time when you have already done it and know your way around. Anyway, the offending injector was quickly extracted and replaced with this expensive one.
Renew the gaskets? No, not with 5 miles on them, took them off, inspected and they all look as fresh as when I put them on. There's still a raised lip for a seal, so back on they go!
The fuel filter was the last piece before I started it back up, it was getting late, very late, so the rotten screw was still there, haven't touched it, so I popped off the connectors from the old one and popped them on the new one. It's a "I'll fix it later" situation!
So the fuel filter was replaced.
I started it, and.... the persistent misfire is gone! Hoooray!
It still doesn't run as smooth as I'd like, I'm putting it down to the old fuel (it's now at least 6 months old). It's also not starting very well when warm. I'm putting that down to the fuel as well.
I'll get the wheels back on it, and get it to a garage through the week and get a tank of vPower in it maybe and see if that sorts out the last of it's problems. I'm guessing that the other option is camshaft position sensors etc.
It's taken a bit of time for me to get through the range of emotions, disbelief, disappointment, anger (still have that, will never buy an other direct injection car), sleepiness, but I bought the new injector through the week. It arrived on Friday. Sun has gone today, so a quick strip and rebuild of half the car for a Sunday.
So got battered in, took the throttle body off and the first thing I noticed is that some clown that worked on the car before today may have managed to forget one bolt on the throttle body.... Oh dear...
Also discovered how to avoid getting pressurised fuel over everything. Pop the pump fuse, start it and let it run till it runs dry. Actually easy and kinda obvious, but well every day is a school day.
Battered on, one loose bolt wasn't causing a persistent mis-fire on 1 cylinder.
Turns out that stripping and rebuilding takes a lot less time when you have already done it and know your way around. Anyway, the offending injector was quickly extracted and replaced with this expensive one.
Renew the gaskets? No, not with 5 miles on them, took them off, inspected and they all look as fresh as when I put them on. There's still a raised lip for a seal, so back on they go!
The fuel filter was the last piece before I started it back up, it was getting late, very late, so the rotten screw was still there, haven't touched it, so I popped off the connectors from the old one and popped them on the new one. It's a "I'll fix it later" situation!
So the fuel filter was replaced.
I started it, and.... the persistent misfire is gone! Hoooray!
It still doesn't run as smooth as I'd like, I'm putting it down to the old fuel (it's now at least 6 months old). It's also not starting very well when warm. I'm putting that down to the fuel as well.
I'll get the wheels back on it, and get it to a garage through the week and get a tank of vPower in it maybe and see if that sorts out the last of it's problems. I'm guessing that the other option is camshaft position sensors etc.
Vorsprung durch Technik
A2OC Donor
We had a misfire albeit a small count one on No4 so did the same as you and ordered a new Bosch injector. All fixed now and running super smooth with a new lower inlet manifold ( houses flaps) to boot. Sounds like your nearly there. When you are you'll love this engine and will forget the pain.
B4Andra
Member
Test Drive
Today I got the brakes bled again and took it for a test drive.
Brakes - far better but seem a bit lacking in bite... Mught be because I’m used to driving an S8 and an old V6 cabrio. Maybe just crap pads. The fronts went back on, they came with the car. They are serviceable just not as urgent as I’m used to.
Fuel Filter - now the pop on hoses are a welcome departure from the bad banjos of old, nice and simple, but the bracket that holds it is less good. I’m sure it’s great when the screw isn’t old and rusty. There was no way I was getting it out, it had to get cut off. And what a mess it’s left. I’ll be revisiting this when I get to a ramp but I don’t know what the alternatives to a self tapper through what’s left of the plastic.
My fuel filter top tip - if you can get the screw out, replace it. Every time. One day it’ll be rotten and you’ll be stuck. It looks like the bracket is part of the tank so no joy there either.
Engine - are all my woes gone with a tank of Four Star?
Well they are and they aren’t. So the misfire seems to be banished, which is good. But the engine isn’t what I’d entirely call smooth, but again I’m used to driving things with a far different layout, such as a silky smooth v6. Anyways it seems a bit harsh during acceleration but settles down while driving normal speeds.
The warm start problem is still there but to a far less extent with fresh fuel, it cut out on 1 warm start but the subsequent ones it more kinda spluttered to life, running just over 600rpm settiling up at 800 after a few seconds. Also seems hesitant when picking away after that kind of start.
When sinking the clutch and lifting off, there’s no overrun really (I’m sure that’s what it’s called...) the revs drop like a stone, way down to near stall and then are caught in the nick of time.
I’m going to re run the throttle body adaption, must not be right. The gadget I’m using has “built in” functions instead of messing around with blocks etc, but when I did the ABS bleed I noticed it wasn’t quite right, couldn’t get the bleed to run so ended up messing around with the blocks anyway. I’d imagine the same may be true for the throttle body adaption. It would explain the still slightly, very slightly rough idle and the revs dropping sharp, and the warm start.
Oil Pressure warning.
This happy little fellow made an appearance the last time I had this car out on the road, and he did so again this time... In exactly the same place. So it came on just after I had been round one of these huge new roundabouts, just off a dual carriageway, so from 70 down to a roundabout speed and a 3rd exit so 3/4 of the way round. I know it’s not a permanent issue because when you turn the ignition off and on again, the warning goes also. So am I taking the roundabout too fast? No tyre squeal or anything! Is there something about these cars and right turns like that? Maybe the wire is broken and that’s the kind of turning that upsets it...
Tonight is the first night in a while I have seen the light at the end of the tunnel. I no longer want to purify the car with fire. It seems a good wee motor, now I have a far shorter list of things to be getting in with!
Today I got the brakes bled again and took it for a test drive.
Brakes - far better but seem a bit lacking in bite... Mught be because I’m used to driving an S8 and an old V6 cabrio. Maybe just crap pads. The fronts went back on, they came with the car. They are serviceable just not as urgent as I’m used to.
Fuel Filter - now the pop on hoses are a welcome departure from the bad banjos of old, nice and simple, but the bracket that holds it is less good. I’m sure it’s great when the screw isn’t old and rusty. There was no way I was getting it out, it had to get cut off. And what a mess it’s left. I’ll be revisiting this when I get to a ramp but I don’t know what the alternatives to a self tapper through what’s left of the plastic.
My fuel filter top tip - if you can get the screw out, replace it. Every time. One day it’ll be rotten and you’ll be stuck. It looks like the bracket is part of the tank so no joy there either.
Engine - are all my woes gone with a tank of Four Star?
Well they are and they aren’t. So the misfire seems to be banished, which is good. But the engine isn’t what I’d entirely call smooth, but again I’m used to driving things with a far different layout, such as a silky smooth v6. Anyways it seems a bit harsh during acceleration but settles down while driving normal speeds.
The warm start problem is still there but to a far less extent with fresh fuel, it cut out on 1 warm start but the subsequent ones it more kinda spluttered to life, running just over 600rpm settiling up at 800 after a few seconds. Also seems hesitant when picking away after that kind of start.
When sinking the clutch and lifting off, there’s no overrun really (I’m sure that’s what it’s called...) the revs drop like a stone, way down to near stall and then are caught in the nick of time.
I’m going to re run the throttle body adaption, must not be right. The gadget I’m using has “built in” functions instead of messing around with blocks etc, but when I did the ABS bleed I noticed it wasn’t quite right, couldn’t get the bleed to run so ended up messing around with the blocks anyway. I’d imagine the same may be true for the throttle body adaption. It would explain the still slightly, very slightly rough idle and the revs dropping sharp, and the warm start.
Oil Pressure warning.
This happy little fellow made an appearance the last time I had this car out on the road, and he did so again this time... In exactly the same place. So it came on just after I had been round one of these huge new roundabouts, just off a dual carriageway, so from 70 down to a roundabout speed and a 3rd exit so 3/4 of the way round. I know it’s not a permanent issue because when you turn the ignition off and on again, the warning goes also. So am I taking the roundabout too fast? No tyre squeal or anything! Is there something about these cars and right turns like that? Maybe the wire is broken and that’s the kind of turning that upsets it...
Tonight is the first night in a while I have seen the light at the end of the tunnel. I no longer want to purify the car with fire. It seems a good wee motor, now I have a far shorter list of things to be getting in with!
B4Andra
Member
Another little job done.
I imagine it’ll be barely noticeable in the dark interior.
Much better than how it started out. Also surprised at the drop in the quality of the finish for the sake of “touchy-feely ness” from the a4 version to this.
Looks not too bad I guess...
I imagine it’ll be barely noticeable in the dark interior.
Much better than how it started out. Also surprised at the drop in the quality of the finish for the sake of “touchy-feely ness” from the a4 version to this.
Looks not too bad I guess...
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B4Andra
Member
So this is the current state of affairs now that I got round to re-running the diagnostic...
Brake light switch confirmed today, didn’t realise the lights weren’t working! The were when I tested. I’m assuming the brake light switch is an easy fix, as long as it’s not a break in the wire.
Vacuum leak I recon is down to this pipe, it goes into the oil separator and it looks like a retaining clip has been broken off at some point, so not fully seated.
So not overly concerned.
The one that has me most worried is the camshaft setpoint affair.
So the workshop manual instructs you to check the camshaft position by taking off the fuel pump, which I didn’t do, assuming that the camshaft locking tool itself would deal with that. I’ll need to revisit that, anyone else had experience dealing with the camshaft and this error?
Brake light switch confirmed today, didn’t realise the lights weren’t working! The were when I tested. I’m assuming the brake light switch is an easy fix, as long as it’s not a break in the wire.
Vacuum leak I recon is down to this pipe, it goes into the oil separator and it looks like a retaining clip has been broken off at some point, so not fully seated.
So not overly concerned.
The one that has me most worried is the camshaft setpoint affair.
So the workshop manual instructs you to check the camshaft position by taking off the fuel pump, which I didn’t do, assuming that the camshaft locking tool itself would deal with that. I’ll need to revisit that, anyone else had experience dealing with the camshaft and this error?
B4Andra
Member
Cam variator
So the warnings on the scanner were pointing to timing, along with the rough running, I thought I had best give it another poke. I became obsessed with this T10110 tool that’s needed to adjust the timing on the cam variator, I just wanted to make sure it was right. So a few weeks back I took off the high pressure pump and had a look.
Nowhere does it tell you there’s actually marks on the thing to show it’s lined up!
So there we go, the rough running and starting problems are NOT down to crap cam timing, it’s all spot on and perfect. Just to be sure I looked at roughly how the tool lines up with that bolt up at the top right of the picture and that looks spot on too.
All in I’m happy that the timing is not a problem.
So the warnings on the scanner were pointing to timing, along with the rough running, I thought I had best give it another poke. I became obsessed with this T10110 tool that’s needed to adjust the timing on the cam variator, I just wanted to make sure it was right. So a few weeks back I took off the high pressure pump and had a look.
Nowhere does it tell you there’s actually marks on the thing to show it’s lined up!
So there we go, the rough running and starting problems are NOT down to crap cam timing, it’s all spot on and perfect. Just to be sure I looked at roughly how the tool lines up with that bolt up at the top right of the picture and that looks spot on too.
All in I’m happy that the timing is not a problem.