I just followed my nose regarding instructions, I've changed many clutches in my life
basics are remove inner wheel arch liners, then front bumper, all pipes connecting engine to front panel, remove front panel including rads etc
Now you have good access to the gearbox
split both bottom ball joints, undo the six bolts on the inner drive shaft flanges (early ones are Hex, latter are 12 point 8mm from memory)
plastic bag over the inner cv joints and tie out of way.
Remove starter, slave cylinder, disconnect speedo drive cable and reverse light cables
support engine with jack and block of wood under the sump, remove gearbox mount. let jack down a little so gearbox is lower. remove bell housing bolts
there is a tin cover at the bottom of the engine to gearbox, remove this
slide gearbox off input shaft, the drivers side driveshaft flange catches, so rotate gearbox to clear then pull off
you can now see the clutch, remove the cover plate (12 point headed bolts), remove the spinner plate, check back of fly wheel for oil, if present remove flywheel and change rear crank shaft oil seal.
fit new spinner and cover, the alignment tool is really daft. the Dia of bar which will go through the splines in the spinner plate to smaller than the hole in the flywheel by about 0.5mm. So I first cut a strip of photocopier paper about 20mm wide and rapped it around the end of the alignment tool (having first put the tool through the spinner plate), about 4 turns was necessary to make up the 0.5mm gap.
Then fit the tool + spinner plate + paper to the fly wheel, then the cover then bolt up evenly. Tap the alignment tool from side to side in all directions as the cover is tightened up. when the cover is torqued up the alignment tool should be able to be turned by hand. Remove the tool, and also the paper strip which will remain in the flywheel, long tweezers really helped here
put the new pivot bolt in the gearbox, and new spring slip on the cross arm and new release bearing on the cross arm. I also applied a finger full of molly grease to the pivot bolt and a smear on the input splines, and a tied the cross arm back with a bit of string through the slave cylinder hole in the gearbox.
Refit the gearbox, remembering to rotate the gearbox to clear the drivers side drive shaft flange (or drop the gearbox oil and remove the centre bolt in the flange and remove the flange (much easier if you are doing the job alone)
The rest is just a reversal of the removal process
If you order the cross arm from Audi it DOES NOT come with the spring slip, this needs to be ordered separately at 18p if memory serves, the cross arm was about £12 and the pivot bolt £4. The pivot bolt as an anti friction coating on it which once worn off leaves metal to metal contact, mine had worn the mushroom head of the pivot bolt, then the stem of the bolt had worn through the cross arm which in turn cause release bearing failure, granted all at 272,000 miles, but a shame because the clutch still had around another 100,000 miles left in it
Cheers,
Paul