AMF Injector & Tandem pump replacement,

Hi,
Long story short but had diesel leaking into my engine. Previous owner replaced injectors however when i removed them, all 3 had at least 1 or 2 of the rubber seals missing which would have still made the injectors leak. I sent injectors off to be tested @ Bosch & all fine so replaced the rubber seals. Also replaced the Tandem pump as wasn't working properly.
Question 1. Does the pump need configuring to the car with a VAG reader?
Question 2. Re seated the Injectors however having problems understanding the exact position they need to be in. I have downloaded the A2 workshop manuals & it references that they need to be positioned a certain measurement from the edge of the engine wall (link attached below). I've asked garages about this & all think it will be OK to replace them by judging with their eyes & not as Audi recommends.

Thanks in advance.
 

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RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Question 1: No.
Question 2: Essentially the electrical connections should be at right angles to the wall of the cylinder head, as shown in the manual. Check with a measure but the tolerances are fairly generous, +/- 0.8mm.

RAB
 
Question 1: No.
Question 2: Essentially the electrical connections should be at right angles to the wall of the cylinder head, as shown in the manual. Check with a measure but the tolerances are fairly generous, +/- 0.8mm.

RAB
Thanks Rab. I'll measure from the electrical connectors.
 

7A5B3

Member
Hello,

I took some photographs of how I measured each distance.
There is most likely a difference in the castings of each cylinder head that may add error but I'm not sure.
The tandem pump needs no set up.
If you have a vac pump (mityvac) pull diesel through the pump before you start the car.
This is only to reduce the cranking time filling the pump with diesel.

Cheers

Andy
 

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Robin_Cox

Member
I'm about to do the same with the project car (tandem pump replacement). I'm sure it's obvious, but are the various pipes held on just by friction or are there clips that need to be undone / put on to retain the pipes when in situ? After weeks of weekend rain at the moment the front end of the car is in a corner that I can't get to to remove the bonnet to check myself, so this is purely for getting my head around the job in advance.

Final question- I have the metal gasket for the tandem pump bought new. There is a wee tab at one end that was bent at an angle ; I assumed it had been bent in the post (shipped in an envelope) so straightened it, but now I'm wondering if it was meant to be like that.
 

O07JESTER

Member
I'm about to do the same with the project car (tandem pump replacement). I'm sure it's obvious, but are the various pipes held on just by friction or are there clips that need to be undone / put on to retain the pipes when in situ? After weeks of weekend rain at the moment the front end of the car is in a corner that I can't get to to remove the bonnet to check myself, so this is purely for getting my head around the job in advance.

Final question- I have the metal gasket for the tandem pump bought new. There is a wee tab at one end that was bent at an angle ; I assumed it had been bent in the post (shipped in an envelope) so straightened it, but now I'm wondering if it was meant to be like that.
Hi the little tab is bent for a reason,it helps keep the gasket in place when you fit the new tandem pump back on to the cylinder head
 
Watch the dimensions as one of them is wrong in that it leaves the injector out of square, no 2: I think.
I’ve just done mine & will be test firing tomorrow hopefully.
Keith.
Thanks Keith. Hope it all goes well & let me know the progress. What size spanner/socket did you use to crank the engine over?
Matt
 
Hello,

I took some photographs of how I measured each distance.
There is most likely a difference in the castings of each cylinder head that may add error but I'm not sure.
The tandem pump needs no set up.
If you have a vac pump (mityvac) pull diesel through the pump before you start the car.
This is only to reduce the cranking time filling the pump with diesel.

Cheers

Andy
Thanks Andy & appreciate posting the pics. I've just purchased a Vernier gauge so I can measure the distances. I had to drain off all the diesel as it was off & I've pumped it through to the Tandem pump so just awaiting me refitting the injectors. As I mentioned in my original post the mechanic I spoke with was going to do it by just looking at the position of the injectors & I thought when he said that I knew there was something more technical to it. Could I ask, once you rotated the crank to Top Dead Center (TDC), tightened the injector up & then rotated it back 180 degrees, how did you torque tighten the injector locking nut whilst still keeping the injector in the same position?

Matt
 
I'm about to do the same with the project car (tandem pump replacement). I'm sure it's obvious, but are the various pipes held on just by friction or are there clips that need to be undone / put on to retain the pipes when in situ? After weeks of weekend rain at the moment the front end of the car is in a corner that I can't get to to remove the bonnet to check myself, so this is purely for getting my head around the job in advance.

Final question- I have the metal gasket for the tandem pump bought new. There is a wee tab at one end that was bent at an angle ; I assumed it had been bent in the post (shipped in an envelope) so straightened it, but now I'm wondering if it was meant to be like that.
Hi Robin,
3 reinforced rubber pipes attached to the pump with clips. Once the clips were removed, the pipes needed some force to be pulled off. Did you have Diesel leaking into the engine too?
Matt
 

Robin_Cox

Member
Not got diesel leaking *into* the engine, but it looks like there is diesel seeping gently down the outside of the engine on that side and top of the gearbox giving everything a 'wet look' - I need to get the camera down there to confirm but I'm pretty certain. It then pools on the subframe and drops off onto the driveway when I reverse and then stop on the sloped bit so there were puddles of neat diesel lying there afterwards. That along with the symptoms of poor starting / air in the fuel line that started at the same time were diagnosed as probable tandem pump failure here (the engine is on 289k) so I decided to replace as part of the resurrection process.
 

kp 115

Member
Thanks Andy & appreciate posting the pics. I've just purchased a Vernier gauge so I can measure the distances. I had to drain off all the diesel as it was off & I've pumped it through to the Tandem pump so just awaiting me refitting the injectors. As I mentioned in my original post the mechanic I spoke with was going to do it by just looking at the position of the injectors & I thought when he said that I knew there was something more technical to it. Could I ask, once you rotated the crank to Top Dead Center (TDC), tightened the injector up & then rotated it back 180 degrees, how did you torque tighten the injector locking nut whilst still keeping the injector in the same position?

Matt
Crows foot spanner worked for me fitted to the torque wrench, will check size & update
When I get back out side.
Keith.
 
I'm about to do the same with the project car (tandem pump replacement). I'm sure it's obvious, but are the various pipes held on just by friction or are there clips that need to be undone / put on to retain the pipes when in situ? After weeks of weekend rain at the moment the front end of the car is in a corner that I can't get to to remove the bonnet to check myself, so this is purely for getting my head around the job in advance.

Final question- I have the metal gasket for the tandem pump bought new. There is a wee tab at one end that was bent at an angle ; I assumed it had been bent in the post (shipped in an envelope) so straightened it, but now I'm wondering if it was meant to be like that.
The tab bit on the end clips on to the side of the tamdem pump, replaced one years ago on 1.9tdi 130bhp audi a4
52441
 
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