AMF Injector & Tandem pump replacement,

Sheffield_Matt said:
Thanks Andy & appreciate posting the pics. I've just purchased a Vernier gauge so I can measure the distances. I had to drain off all the diesel as it was off & I've pumped it through to the Tandem pump so just awaiting me refitting the injectors. As I mentioned in my original post the mechanic I spoke with was going to do it by just looking at the position of the injectors & I thought when he said that I knew there was something more technical to it. Could I ask, once you rotated the crank to Top Dead Center (TDC), tightened the injector up & then rotated it back 180 degrees, how did you torque tighten the injector locking nut whilst still keeping the injector in the same position?

Matt
Click to expand...

The Injector should not move. The clamp pushes it downwards. ?
 

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Sheffield_Matt said:
Hi,
Long story short but had diesel leaking into my engine. Previous owner replaced injectors however when i removed them, all 3 had at least 1 or 2 of the rubber seals missing which would have still made the injectors leak. I sent injectors off to be tested @ Bosch & all fine so replaced the rubber seals. Also replaced the Tandem pump as wasn't working properly.
Question 1. Does the pump need configuring to the car with a VAG reader?
Question 2. Re seated the Injectors however having problems understanding the exact position they need to be in. I have downloaded the A2 workshop manuals & it references that they need to be positioned a certain measurement from the edge of the engine wall (link attached below). I've asked garages about this & all think it will be OK to replace them by judging with their eyes & not as Audi recommends.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Error was in world manuals version
No2: shows 152.8 but way off square, set square to side as per Audi instruction gives
156mm measured from the end wall with
300mm vernier Caliper.

My car is late 2000/2001 & has early injectors.

Keith.
 
beady73 said:
Hello,

I took some photographs of how I measured each distance.
There is most likely a difference in the castings of each cylinder head that may add error but I'm not sure.
The tandem pump needs no set up.
If you have a vac pump (mityvac) pull diesel through the pump before you start the car.
This is only to reduce the cranking time filling the pump with diesel.

Cheers

Andy
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Hi Andy,
Your measurements are different to the ones listed on the A2 workshop manual?
Matt
 
Hello, that is correct they are very different and the reason is...
I made my own measurements before I removed the injectors. My verniers are not long enough to reach the whole distance.
I like the idea of a set square.
Good luck.
 
I have only ever set the solenoid on the injectors to 90 degrees using 2 set squares. One along the head, then a small one right angles to that for the solenoid. As long as you have 90 degrees I have since measured and they are within the limits for the 2 different types on injector solenoids. Did try making a measuring stick from and old injector loom but the right angle method was better. Another way is to get some stiff car or thin plastic and cut it into strips for the three dimensions, ensure they are at right angles to the end of the head then use a set square to drop down to the edge of the injector. If set square is on the measurement then good to go.
 
If you want to use the calipers to measure all 3 injectors there is a work around to use standard calipers. First measure the positions for injector 1 and 2 using the caliper as normal. Now measure the solenoid for cylinder 3 across the round part of the solenoid and write this value down. Now depending on the type of injector SUBTRACT this measurement from the cylinder 3 value given in the manual. Bolt a rectangular piece of metal into the location in front of the injector loom and ensure the end pointing along the block is parallel to the end measure it with the calipers. Now subtract this value from the measurement obtained after subtracting the solenoid. This value is now the measurement from the end of the piece of metal to the closer end of cylinder 3 solenoid and to measure it use the calipers in external mode i.e. the 2 smaller "jaws"
 
beady73 said:
Hello, that is correct they are very different and the reason is...
I made my own measurements before I removed the injectors. My verniers are not long enough to reach the whole distance.
I like the idea of a set square.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Cheers, I should have done this in hindsight!
 
audifan said:
I have only ever set the solenoid on the injectors to 90 degrees using 2 set squares. One along the head, then a small one right angles to that for the solenoid. As long as you have 90 degrees I have since measured and they are within the limits for the 2 different types on injector solenoids. Did try making a measuring stick from and old injector loom but the right angle method was better. Another way is to get some stiff car or thin plastic and cut it into strips for the three dimensions, ensure they are at right angles to the end of the head then use a set square to drop down to the edge of the injector. If set square is on the measurement then good to go.
Click to expand...
Thanks & appreciate you taking time to comment. I take it that I need the injectors 90 degrees.
 
beady73 said:
Hello,

I took some photographs of how I measured each distance.
There is most likely a difference in the castings of each cylinder head that may add error but I'm not sure.
The tandem pump needs no set up.
If you have a vac pump (mityvac) pull diesel through the pump before you start the car.
This is only to reduce the cranking time filling the pump with diesel.

Cheers

Andy
Click to expand...
I think I may use your measurements & position the injectors in at your tolerances. I did't realize this was to ensure the injector was at a right angle to the clamping block so it's fitted securely.
 
That is correct just make sure the block face is parallel with the end of the head. Any suitable sized block can be used. Use the internal measuring jaws of the caliper and double check injector at right angles.
 
Members, the saga continues. ? I accidentally dropped a socket into the engine so did the right thing & retrieved it by removing the sump! Found the socket but also discovered these pieces of metal which aren't clearly meant to be in there & not sure what they've sheared off. Doesn't look great. Any idea as to what they are & is this engine scrap? 20p for scale.
 

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Sheffield_Matt said:
Members, the saga continues. ? I accidentally dropped a socket into the engine so did the right thing & retrieved it by removing the sump! Found the socket but also discovered these pieces of metal which aren't clearly meant to be in there & not sure what they've sheared off. Doesn't look great. Any idea as to what they are & is this engine scrap? 20p for scale.
Click to expand...
It’s hard to say from the photos but if injectors were out of the head then the oil ways would have been open so providing access to the sump for foreign bodies to enter, with sump off is there any sign of damage?
Was any reason given for there being no seals fitted to the injectors?
Do the pieces you have retrieved fit together to give a better chance of identifying object.
Regards
Keith.
 
kp 115 said:
It’s hard to say from the photos but if injectors were out of the head then the oil ways would have been open so providing access to the sump for foreign bodies to enter, with sump off is there any sign of damage?
Was any reason given for there being no seals fitted to the injectors?
Do the pieces you have retrieved fit together to give a better chance of identifying object.
Regards
Keith.
Click to expand...
Hi Keith. No visable sigm of damage with the sump off however their is another cover within the sump so can't see the bottom of all the piston arms. I can also see small bits of metal debris so I'm presuming whatever it is, it's been pulverised quite badly!
 
As Keith has said can you piece together the bits? Looks like a flange around the edge. What condition is the oil cap in? Do you still have the rocker and sump off? You could use a portable endoscope to check the engine over especially the area within the sump. Try to retrieve as much as possible. Is it magnetic? Have a good look at the pistons both upper and lower ends. How much history do you have on the car?
 
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