Another stuck passenger door problem!

from memory the window motor is much more, I think it is called a door control module, a few multi plugs connect to it, so likely if this as failed that the lock is not getting its signal
@timmus would provide the definative answer
 
Well guys, just to tell you that my A2 is now working fine and I confirm the fault was indeed on the Siemens / Brose door control module..


Thank you for the help :)

34234.JPG
 
Interesting reading from all posters to this thread. As some may know I have the same problem. Did any of you guys notice that you can hear the locking system working in the said lock that was stuck locked, I can hear it trying to unlock but it won't.
 
My passenger door is allso stuck and wont open, I guess it would be esyer if I try to change the window motor first to ser if it helps, before I start cutting, if I buy a used one, would it need some re programing or does it need to be the same MY (-04)?
 
timmus said:
I think this is a very good point. The lock is currently latched to the chassis of the car. Whilst you can remove the door trim, ally panel, etc, you cannot physically remove the lock. Access to the two XZN M8 bolts that hold the lock in place is blocked, and you cannot access the interior electrics of the lock without removing it.

Chris, I know that some garages have resorted to angle-grinding the car to fix this problem, but I've had success on a few occasions by driving the de-safe motor directly with a 12V power supply. This at least allows the door to be opened and the lock replaced/repaired in the normal manner, without doing any physical damage to the car.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...

Hi Tom, could you explain driving the de-safe motor directly with a 12V power supply? I have a stuck passenger door too. Thanks.
 
Jock said:
Hi Tom, could you explain driving the de-safe motor directly with a 12V power supply? I have a stuck passenger door too. Thanks.
Click to expand...
In haste, yes... I just don't know where today has gone and I've still got a list of jobs to get through.

The locks have (from memory) either 7 or 9 electrical contacts, depending on whether they're a 'standard' door or a driver's door. These 7/9 wires connect to a wiring loom. I have made a special loom that allows me to send electrical current down the correct wires in order to drive the motor directly. Alas, without dismanting the loom or referencing the wiring diagrams, I cannot remembers which of the 7/9 wires are the correct ones for the de-safe motor.
The issue with the lock is almost certainly that the solder joints on the circuit board inside the lock have cracked, meaning they no longer create an electrical connection. However, given that the cracked solder joints are very near the lock's electrical connector, you can encourage the solder joint to make a temporary connection by stressing the lock's plastic housing slightly. If you do this while applying a voltage to the de-safe motor, a sudden reconnection at the solder joint will cause the motor to spin, thus unlocking the car.

So, it's not a 5-minute job, but it's a lot better than employing the the angle-grinder technique.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Hello people, i have the same problem at the drivers door, some pinout to see where to apply voltage to drive de desafe motor would help, Thanks
 
hipnotiqx said:
Hello people, i have the same problem at the drivers door, some pinout to see where to apply voltage to drive de desafe motor would help, Thanks
Click to expand...
Hi, did you get the pinout information? Our A2 has just developed the same problem with a deadlocked front door.
 
On 12-pin connector connected to door control unit
pin 4 - brown/blue wire: common
pin 5 - grey/blue wire: central locking motor
pin 6 - blue/white wire: central locking motor - safe
I'm not sure about polarity, please be cautious.
 
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Hello
I have this same problem on my passenger door
I have the door card off
Is beat option to just try a replacement door module ?
That before messing with the lock itself ???
I have a 1.4 petrol 2001
I assume I cannot try to swap the door control unit from another door ?
Rear left ? That rear door has manual windows etc so perhaps the door module's different completely??

Thanks for your help
Wife is looking at all the issues we've been having and asking about a different car!
 
hello
I'm about to fail my MOT with this and so this has suddenly become a 'do i keep the car ' question!
Following this super helpful thread..... Ive got the door car off and the ali trim
I can see the lock
The inner handle cable is moving things - as it does so it pushes the red plastic mechanism shown above in an earlier post.
I have also tried moving the red plastic cam with a screwdriver and pulling inside / outside handles
Nothing. Nada!
Does anyone have any bright ideas as it will fail its MOT soon and I'll have to right it off... shame as its 97k and full service history and mechanically sweet as a nut!
Hoping someone has a bright idea.
I guess I could try a new door module ???
is there a way of firing the door open command via direct 12V to the door control cable ? I dont know the pins on the connector so not sure about this at all as i'd likely break something else !
thanks so much for any help and advice

M
 
On further inspection .....the door module is sending the signal to open.
When I push the key door open button the lock is trying to open - I can see the red plastic cam jogging as if to open the door

So I assume this must be the deadlock /desafe issue......
Can anyone confirm if that's the sounds like the correct assumption please ?

If so ... @timmus I think mentioned this could likely be the solder in the lock
Or could it also be the door control module not sending the de-safe signal?
Is there any way to know ?
I assume if I can somehow work out which pin on the lock wire connector was responsible for the de-safe I could send it 12v

Or ... if I drill the door to allow me to remove the plastic red lock cam ... does that solve a de-safe problem or does that only help with no de-safe opening issues

Thanks so much - help very much needed on this
I have no working w
Boot lock either so am at the point of being grumpy to the point of getting rid of the old girl !

Thank you
 
Hi @smilesbernard,

Where in the country are you, may I ask?

I've obviously not looked at this paticular problem with my own eyes and therefore cannot offer a definitive diagnosis. However, based on the information available, I strongly suspect that the deadlock motor itself has died and that success therefore cannot be achieved by firing 12V into the appropriate contact.

smilesbernard said:
if I drill the door
Click to expand...
I certainly wouldn't be drilling the door. Having solved this issue plenty of times before, I have never had to resort to attacking the door. Being able to visualise the inner workings of the lock is certainly an advantage; in my case, that's come from having previously repaired countless locks on my workbench.
The worst case scenario that I have ever encountered resulted in some components of the electrical half of the lock being destroyed. Thankfully, I have ample stocks of all the internal lock components and am therefore able to enact an immediate repair to the lock.

Unfortunately, as our beloved A2s get older, this is going to become an increasingly common issue (at base level, we can all blame the second law of thermodynamics). However, the degree of frustration caused in rectifying a single fault is not, in my mind, a solid reason to replace a car that is otherwise performing well. I hope that this incident doesn't ultimately end your A2 relationship.

Cheers,

Tom
 
timmus said:
Hi @smilesbernard,

Where in the country are you, may I ask?

I've obviously not looked at this paticular problem with my own eyes and therefore cannot offer a definitive diagnosis. However, based on the information available, I strongly suspect that the deadlock motor itself has died and that success therefore cannot be achieved by firing 12V into the appropriate contact.


I certainly wouldn't be drilling the door. Having solved this issue plenty of times before, I have never had to resort to attacking the door. Being able to visualise the inner workings of the lock is certainly an advantage; in my case, that's come from having previously repaired countless locks on my workbench.
The worst case scenario that I have ever encountered resulted in some components of the electrical half of the lock being destroyed. Thankfully, I have ample stocks of all the internal lock components and am therefore able to enact an immediate repair to the lock.

Unfortunately, as our beloved A2s get older, this is going to become an increasingly common issue (at base level, we can all blame the second law of thermodynamics). However, the degree of frustration caused in rectifying a single fault is not, in my mind, a solid reason to replace a car that is otherwise performing well. I hope that this incident doesn't ultimately end your A2 relationship.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks so much Tom for the thoughtful reply.
I wonder what you would advise in terms of somehow getting the door open so i can then replace locks etc?
I saw another member in this post thread resorted to either:
- drilling a small hole on the inside frame of the door in order to remove the screw holding the red latch / cam unit in place. I assume this might not help my situation with the deadlock though?
- grinding out the plate at the back of the door lock on the B pillar so I could somehow remove the latch. looks hard to do . I do have a dremmel .....!
Are there any other options ?
I'm based in South devon near plymouth .... I'm not sure if there are any specialists near here ?

Yes I think you are right about the car - i want to keep it running as its been in the family ages and is great in so many ways
I tried disconnecting the battery earlier for 10 min. It didnt help with the passenger door lock but it did fix the boot not opening ! So that one off the fix list!

Many thanks for your help with this. I did take a short video of the lock attempting to open but i'm not sure its possible to attach that on this forum

All the best
Miles
 
sorry - another thought on this ....
Is it worth taking the door control module from the drivers door and testing the door with that wired in place. i guess the unit is different but suspect the plugs / connectors will be the same ... if i could just get the thing open......!
All the best
 
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