ASR from first start

S

SharkGill

New Member
Hi All,
Can someone please help my telling me what feeds information to the ASR apart from wheel speed sensors. When my 1.6 FSI is first started and driven the the ASR kicks in and prevents the car from picking up speed. I’ve scanned it on VCDS but there are no errors showing on the ABS.
Sometimes coming off the throttle and back on makes the issue go away faster but the issue only ever lasts around the first 100m or so of driving from first ignition.
 
No more sensors except the ABS sensors. I assume it happens when you accelerate, or thy to.
I have had the same symptoms when driving with winter tires (soft compound) or with to low tire pressure.
 
Yeah it’s when I try and accelerate dash light flashes but it’s only when the car is first started and driven, after that it’s as good as gold. I did love speed readings and the rear passenger wheel was off compared to the others by around 2/3 kph could this be it or does it only count the front wheels?
 
Main thing Why I was thinking it might electrical is because it only does it on first start then it’s fine.
 
There are probably 4 inputs for the ASR. Wheel speed sensors (ABS), throttle position, steering angle sensor and acceleration sensor. If a rear wheel is rotating slower then the system will cut the power to slow the fast wheels ( if possible ). It is important that the diameter of all wheels are the same and the same size tyres are fitted and at the correct tyre pressures. You should not mix brands of tyres on the same axle. There is a possibility the rear wheel handbrake has not fully released, the dragging of the car releasing it fully. Try leaving the hand brake off ( park it in gear ). The rear wheel ABS sensor may be dirty, but VCDS did not report a faulty sensor. The car systems appear to be doing what they were designed to do - keep all the wheels spinning at the same speed . You could switch off ASR everytime you start the car but remember it is a safety device.
 
Did you do a full scan (all controllers), or just ABS related? I'd be surprised if a full (Auto Scan) is clear. Mind, I have been surprised now and then ...
Mac.
 
All I checked was engine and abs. I’ll do a full scan. I was trying to access the calibration mode for the steering angle etc but I’m not sure of the coding number. The one I pulled off another forum ended up going into a brake bleeding sequence on the A2. I’ll go from the full scan to checking the simpler things and work my way up. Thanks.
 
If the problem only occur when you accelerate from standstill, you can test it by switching of the TCS button. The TCS (Traction control) will then be deactivated until you reach 50 km/h (31.7 mph). If the problem disappear you know that it is related to difference in front wheel rotation.
 
SharkGill said:
All I checked was engine and abs. I’ll do a full scan. I was trying to access the calibration mode for the steering angle etc but I’m not sure of the coding number. The one I pulled off another forum ended up going into a brake bleeding sequence on the A2. I’ll go from the full scan to checking the simpler things and work my way up. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Take a look at @Rusty911 recent (ongoing) tale of woe, there's a how to calibrate steering angle in there, late last week, I think.
Mac.
 
You only need to calibrate the steering wheel sensor if you have a constant ESP and a Steering Wheel warning light illuminated.
 
I’ve just checked the tyres and the rear passenger is 185/55/16 where the rest are matching Toyo T1R 185/50/16. I never even thought to check. I’ve not had the car too long and should have known better that people do some real cowboy things to their cars. Lesson learnt!
 
Changed the rear tyres the other day and it’s as good as gold. Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone, mich appreciated.
 
So that proves the car safety devices ASR and ABS were picking up an issue. The odd wheel rotational speed was different to the rest so they tried to prevent a dangerous situation.
 
Exactly. I’m impressed as to how sensitive the system is. Next on the todo lists is to add a rear sub to the factory head unit and replace the door speakers which are now showing their wear after 17 years of use.
 
I wanted try and go a little better than the Bose sub but I need to look into it in more depth and find the time to actually do the work. I saw a thread on here about converting some of the existing outputs to rca which I needed clarification on. It was an old thread which is probably why no one responded.
 
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