Information Audi A2 3L - Bought as non-runner...

when *exactly* is it clonking? could easily be the top mount bearings.

- Bret

The clonks are on anything other than perfectly level ground. A small change in level will result in the 'clonk'.

I've been through the service history and both top strut mounts have been replaced although I'd need to look up again to see when.

I'm looking at replacing both front shock absorbers as the damping is terrible so I'll probably fit new top bearings at the same time.

I can't find any play in the lower balljoints.

MG
 
Maybe this is a little silly but my current stereo (Audi Concert) has issues with the volume control and I've always like the RNS-E... so I kinda bought one ;)

It should arrive in the new few days and we'll then see what happens with regard to fitting it etc.

RNS-E%2002_zps58wu33cb.jpg


It's a 2004 A6 unit.

It's not going to be simple as the car has a single din dash, it's LHD (so really easy to get a double din dash for it in the UK!) but I hope that as it's a 2003 car, it'll have the Can-bus connections that it needs for the DIS.

Hell... maybe I'll just convert it to RHD while I'm in there along with an Opensky roof :D

MG
 
Hell... maybe I'll just convert it to RHD while I'm in there along with an Opensky roof :D

MG

The open-sky is definitely do-able. I'm not sure about RHD though? I love a challenge, but I really wonder if, for any amount of money and skill, if a RHD conversion could EVER be done?

David
 
I don't think so David... probably way too difficult and not cost effective. Conversions from right to left hand drive were common place in the 1970,s on imported VW Beetles, Triumph TR6,s and other classics of the time but perhaps not now.

I wish they had made a right hand drive 1.2tdi A2 but the powers that be at Audi may have thought that we wouldn't buy them in the UK.... shame really.
 
re the clonking: sorry if this was mentioned and I missed it but, it's never the anti roll bar having slipped sideways due to corroded bushes is it?
 
re the clonking: sorry if this was mentioned and I missed it but, it's never the anti roll bar having slipped sideways due to corroded bushes is it?

Hmmm... when I had both ends of the anti-roll bar disconnected to drill out the sheared off bolt, I noticed that it was quick loose within the bushes.

I looked at removing the anti-roll bar to drill it out but the bolts that hold the bush clamps on enter from above... i.e. there isn't enough room to remove them (or even get a socket onto them) without lowering the sub-frame.

I wonder if this is the same system as on normal A2s?

Any pics of the issue on the normal A2 please?

MG
 
Conversions from right to left hand drive were common place in the 1970,s on imported VW Beetles, Triumph TR6,s and other classics of the time but perhaps not now.

I wish they had made a right hand drive 1.2tdi A2 but the powers that be at Audi may have thought that we wouldn't buy them in the UK.... shame really.

I think a lot of us here would have a RHD 1.2 if Audi had ever made one.

As for conversion. In early 80s I changed a 1978 LHD Maxi (don't laugh!) to RHD over a weekend. The crucial facilitator was the fact that the wiring harness came into the dash from the RHD side, so just needed bending back. Had it come from the LHD side it would have been too short to reach the RHD side. I don't know what side the harness is on an A2 1.2.
 
I think a lot of us here would have a RHD 1.2 if Audi had ever made one.

As for conversion. In early 80s I changed a 1978 LHD Maxi (don't laugh!) to RHD over a weekend. The crucial facilitator was the fact that the wiring harness came into the dash from the RHD side, so just needed bending back. Had it come from the LHD side it would have been too short to reach the RHD side. I don't know what side the harness is on an A2 1.2.
Thanks.

The issue will be the wiring. It comes down both sides to the front etc.

I would only concentrate on the few wires that need to swap with the instrument cluster, airbag, pedals, diagnostic plug etc etc and lengthen to go to the other side.

MG

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I think you'll find that there is no suitable steering rack.

RAB
 
I think you'll find that there is no suitable steering rack.

RAB

There's no A2 RHD Manual rack?

Edit: I've just looked up the part numbers and it seems that there is only a power steering RHD rack.

I don't mind upgrading at the same time.

MG
 
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My 1.2 has power steering and it's 1N6. There is no RHD 1N6 steering rack.

RAB
 
There's no A2 RHD Manual rack?

Edit: I've just looked up the part numbers and it seems that there is only a power steering RHD rack.

I don't mind upgrading at the same time.

MG

Makes sense as the 3l was none power steering as far as I recall and the A2 sold in the uk were all power steering versions as the 3L was the only version sold without power steering
Not sure if you could use a power steering rack without power steering or if it would be over heavy steering


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My 1.2 has power steering and it's 1N6. There is no RHD 1N6 steering rack.

RAB

Ok I can see that in the parts catalogue but there is a 1N2 which is also power steering.

If all else fails, I can fit a power steering pump to the engine and use a conventional system.

Makes sense as the 3l was none power steering as far as I recall and the A2 sold in the uk were all power steering versions as the 3L was the only version sold without power steering
Not sure if you could use a power steering rack without power steering or if it would be over heavy steering

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The A2 3L had power steering as an option. Mine didn't get that option though.

I'd probably try to use the electronic hydraulic pump setup with the RHD rack... if that doesn't work I could just use a standard pump.

MG
 
The RHD 1N2 racks are for UK models. Given that almost everything else at the front is different on a 1.2 and where the rack is located, I wouldn't take it for granted that a 1N2 rack would fit. The 1N6 track rods are also different, so adaptation may also be required here. The weight-saving even extended to the drive shafts, which are lightweight, miniature versions of those fitted to the other A2's. This was most likely applied to the steering mechanism as well, hence the different parts. The pump shouldn't be a problem though (located under the LH headlight).

RAB
 
Thanks Rab.

I'll do some more research into this for the future.

After dropping the car off with Audi Cheltenham, they looked at the cracked driver's door and agreed that it has the issue but due to the car being out of warranty Audi won't cover it. Not surprised in the least.

The technician did however give me all of the part numbers required to fit the kit from Audi (which I've ordered from TPS) and they even gave it a proper clean inside and out which should keep the good Mrs happy :)

Another little part arrived today :)

Heater%20controller%20with%20heated%20seats%20switches_zpskna2djxm.jpg


From Germany and at a bargain price.

I think that I'll be playing the RNS-E this weekend :)

MG
 
What did you do with the seats removed from the a2? Are the 3L seats different to standard a2 seats?


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What would you say is the general reliability of the 1.2TDI? Looking at one droven 100k miles. Seen several with faulty gearbox and that is typically a 3000 quid repairjob at dealership in Norway. When is gearbox issues expected, and anything I can do to prolong lifetime?
 
What would you say is the general reliability of the 1.2TDI? Looking at one droven 100k miles. Seen several with faulty gearbox and that is typically a 3000 quid repairjob at dealership in Norway. When is gearbox issues expected, and anything I can do to prolong lifetime?

The 1.2 gearbox is just a modified manual and there is only one known issue with the gearbox itself. This is the gearbox history of our three 1.2's which have all done 240 to 270k km:
A2: New gearbox (FLE) three years ago, due to partially stripped fifth gear. The damage was done before I bought the car in 2007 and was probably caused by a failing accumulator, resulting in an incomplete gear change. Easily avoided by regularly checking the hydraulic oil level and accumulator function by checking the number of gear changes in Tiptronic mode before the motor re-starts (engine off).
1999 Lupo: New gearbox (DSK) three years ago due to wear in the output shaft bearing, probably due to excessive pre-load when assembled. This is a known problem but there's not much you can do to avoid it, short of rebuilding.
2001 Lupo: Original gearbox (DSK) stll going strong. New clutch last year due to failed guide sleeve. Possibly due to neglect early on when VW were responsible for servicing but failed to carry out any gearbox basic settings. Even at 260,000km there was still plenty of wear left on the original clutch plate.
So, with one exception, maintenance is the key to avoiding gearbox/clutch problems. Basic settings every 30k km, or sooner and regular checks on fluid level and accumulator function. Do the work yourself if you can because that is the only guarantee that it will be done properly.

RAB
 
Thanks alot for info. What do you think about buying a 170’km 1.2TDI with no servicetrack for the gearbox? Is there anything you can check easily before buying?

Is there guide in here somewhere for the three items you mention; 1) fluid level 2) accumulator function 3) basic setting ?

I have VCDS.
 
If there's anything obviously wrong then I would suspect that the owner will be somewhat reluctant to let you test drive it! Any show of lack of enthusiasm - walk away.

Fluid level - level should be within the rectangle on the translucent fluid reservoir after releasing the pressure by unscrewing the accumulator half a turn with the hydraulic unit disconnected electrically.

Accumulator test - Turn on ignition without starting and wait for hydraulic pump to stop. in tiptronic mode, see how many gear changes are achieved before pump restarts. Should be at least three.

Basic setting instructions here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)

RAB
 
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