dieselfan
A2OC Donor
Hi David,
Please, can you share the exact tire dimension you were using when you achieved 70 MPH @ 2000 RPM ?
BR
dieselfan
Audi A2 6 speed upgrade path
- Thread starter A2 Cars
- Start date
Please, can you share the exact tire dimension you were using when you achieved 70 MPH @ 2000 RPM ?
BR
dieselfan
Edwrai
Member
Hi David,
Please, can you share the exact tire dimension you were using when you achieved 70 MPH @ 2000 RPM
BR
dieselfan
I get this form 195 55 r17 on my MYP box from a Passat bluemotion
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Edwrai
Member
Edwrai
Member
I run pepperpots, I’ve had 2 MYP boxes one did 70 at 2100ish the other is exactly 2000
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Apologies for posting on both 6-speed threads. I've read through everything and I cannot see any reference to the issue of the dog bone required to install an MYP or similar PTW gearbox. As far as I understood, the dogbone for the Tdi can be divided into the end attached to the console, and the other end that is specific to the gearbox, hence using cheap Polo dogbones on a Tdi to acquire the bushed end. How does this work with an MYP / PTW? Is there a bracket that can be attached to the bushed dogbone end?
The standard A2 dogbone bracket fits an MYP.
(although IIRC only 2 of the 3 bolt holes are used to affix it to the gearbox.)
I now have real-world feedback from my experience of the PTW replacement path on my 1.4 Tdi 75 (now on 138k). The car is mostly used for local commuting, but in normal times I have regular holiday drives Scotland to Plymouth overnight (grandparent visits with my daughter) so I have got used to sitting for hours at an indicated 2900rpm - the idea of something a little more relaxed has been appealing. I also know the fuel use from experience. For a long while I was thinking about the longer 5th option offered by @depronman, but over the past couple of months the stars aligned in terms of parts and mechanic costs so I ended up going with the box swap approach instead.
Found the box on Ebay from a 50k 1.6tdi Bluemotion for £180 (£230 delivered on a pallet - made offer £50 under asking price, then added a completesavings 10% Ebay discount) - (pure luck - other codes of similar gearbox ie MYP / PTU were ~400-500 quid mostly). Picked up various replacement nuts and bolts as well as a Febi Polo diesel dogbone bushing which I managed to separate from the un-necessary gearbox end. New B&B clutch kit for around £60 with savings and an Ebay promotion). Based on @depronman's recommendations picked up a JR driveshaft for the really noisy CV joint, and then a JR CV joint for the other side after the mechanic found the lock-tite on the splines to be about the toughest part of the whole job. I can also recommend JR as they have decent prices on Ebay (driveshafts, joints, boots etc.) and normally get your parts delivered in 24 hours if you order in a timely manner. I printed out the two photo guides from A2oc indicating the adaptor brackets to support the gearchange mechanism, and he knocked these up in situ without issue and transferred the needed parts (gearchange cable connections, cable bracket, driveshaft flanges). As noted above, the lower mount only uses two bolts into the gearbox casing instead of the original 3.
Refilled the PTW with Bluemotion oil, and put it all back together. The original starter from my A2 and a 2017 CAYC/CRKB starter (02Z911024L) I picked up just in case were compared, and the new starter seemed to offer up slightly better in terms of the pinion position and depth so we went with that option - there is a wire connector (1K0973751) that needs to be substituted onto the loom to replace the original connector - mine is currently cobbled together with a cable connector under the starter motor cover. There was also a complete replacement of the rear suspension and handbrake using my supplied parts which confounds the numbers a bit, but if we divide the approx total labour costs 2/3 to 1/3, the whole swap has cost around £600-700 including parts, fluids and fixings.
My GPK always had a quite meaty shift (compared to both our 1.4i and my other AMF-engined A2), and this initially felt like a heavier but shorter shift front to rear - it was quite 'snicky' on the first drive, and occasionally baulked at the 2nd to 3rd transition even after warming up when trying to shift quickly. Looser on the right hand side of the gate (3rd to 4th to 5th to 6th were fine). The mechanic also said it felt a bit tight. As I was paying for fitting only rather than a 6-speed conversion per se getting the rest right was my prerogative. I drove it for a couple of days adjusting my technique to match the new shift (slower / more deliberate movements to begin with, feeling for the gate instead of trying to push it where it used to be) and then decided last Sunday to try a cable adjustment in case they were a fraction out. Released the cable end that shifts the selector vertically between the planes of 1/2, 3/4 and 5/6. Within a few seconds, heavy rain started to fall, so I gave up and relatched it, replaced the bonnet and retreated to the garage. When the rain showed no signs of abating I decided to return the car to its normal position on the drive (I was using my other half's space as it allows access from both sides) - and found that the change into 1st and reverse felt markedly smoother reversing and driving back in. Having now used the car over a week the shift has loosened up considerably to the point that it feels barely different to my previous box (similar weight but slightly shorter shifting distance), so it is entirely plausible that the new box just needed some use as well as maybe a minute movement of the cable.
The next question is about the gearing and effect on economy given the seemingly interstellar gearing numbers of a PTW. On the latter, I won't know for a few tanks as I have only had it a week. Pulling away, my clutch point is obviously different (new compared to 138k clutch so hardly surprising), but the car takes off normally (12.2mph for 2000rpm vs 11.3 is negligible). I can quite happily tool around at 10-15mph in the supermarket carpark in 2nd gear at 12-1300rpm without issue - it isn't a case of needing to rev the nuts off in 1st to shift into 2nd - feels no different. Town speed roads (30mph / 40mph) are comfortable in both 3rd and 4th hovering around 1400-1500rpm respectively.
5th is a little longer than 5th in my original box (59.6mph vs 56.8 for 2000rpm, not quite as high as the Tdi90 at 61.3mph), and I have found that this works well on cruise at 40mph on flat backroads, and is good on the local dual carriageway (not that I use this a lot as there are quieter country roads to go home). However, on my single current experience up to around 70 - 5th is fine as a motorway gear, and putting it into 6th at 2100rpm and then activating cruise sounds like the engine has been stolen which bodes well for long distance motorway journeys. If 6th proves too high, putting the final drive from my spare GPK across into the PTW would be an option (drop from 73.7 to 68.7 mph at 2000rpm).
Finally - the new starter has also proved to be an improvement - elimination of the over-run squeal was one benefit, and it seems to spin the engine slightly quicker (reminiscent of a stop-start system) so it fires almost immediately. Will report back with fuel use comments after more experience and hopefully a long motorway run.
Found the box on Ebay from a 50k 1.6tdi Bluemotion for £180 (£230 delivered on a pallet - made offer £50 under asking price, then added a completesavings 10% Ebay discount) - (pure luck - other codes of similar gearbox ie MYP / PTU were ~400-500 quid mostly). Picked up various replacement nuts and bolts as well as a Febi Polo diesel dogbone bushing which I managed to separate from the un-necessary gearbox end. New B&B clutch kit for around £60 with savings and an Ebay promotion). Based on @depronman's recommendations picked up a JR driveshaft for the really noisy CV joint, and then a JR CV joint for the other side after the mechanic found the lock-tite on the splines to be about the toughest part of the whole job. I can also recommend JR as they have decent prices on Ebay (driveshafts, joints, boots etc.) and normally get your parts delivered in 24 hours if you order in a timely manner. I printed out the two photo guides from A2oc indicating the adaptor brackets to support the gearchange mechanism, and he knocked these up in situ without issue and transferred the needed parts (gearchange cable connections, cable bracket, driveshaft flanges). As noted above, the lower mount only uses two bolts into the gearbox casing instead of the original 3.
Refilled the PTW with Bluemotion oil, and put it all back together. The original starter from my A2 and a 2017 CAYC/CRKB starter (02Z911024L) I picked up just in case were compared, and the new starter seemed to offer up slightly better in terms of the pinion position and depth so we went with that option - there is a wire connector (1K0973751) that needs to be substituted onto the loom to replace the original connector - mine is currently cobbled together with a cable connector under the starter motor cover. There was also a complete replacement of the rear suspension and handbrake using my supplied parts which confounds the numbers a bit, but if we divide the approx total labour costs 2/3 to 1/3, the whole swap has cost around £600-700 including parts, fluids and fixings.
My GPK always had a quite meaty shift (compared to both our 1.4i and my other AMF-engined A2), and this initially felt like a heavier but shorter shift front to rear - it was quite 'snicky' on the first drive, and occasionally baulked at the 2nd to 3rd transition even after warming up when trying to shift quickly. Looser on the right hand side of the gate (3rd to 4th to 5th to 6th were fine). The mechanic also said it felt a bit tight. As I was paying for fitting only rather than a 6-speed conversion per se getting the rest right was my prerogative. I drove it for a couple of days adjusting my technique to match the new shift (slower / more deliberate movements to begin with, feeling for the gate instead of trying to push it where it used to be) and then decided last Sunday to try a cable adjustment in case they were a fraction out. Released the cable end that shifts the selector vertically between the planes of 1/2, 3/4 and 5/6. Within a few seconds, heavy rain started to fall, so I gave up and relatched it, replaced the bonnet and retreated to the garage. When the rain showed no signs of abating I decided to return the car to its normal position on the drive (I was using my other half's space as it allows access from both sides) - and found that the change into 1st and reverse felt markedly smoother reversing and driving back in. Having now used the car over a week the shift has loosened up considerably to the point that it feels barely different to my previous box (similar weight but slightly shorter shifting distance), so it is entirely plausible that the new box just needed some use as well as maybe a minute movement of the cable.
The next question is about the gearing and effect on economy given the seemingly interstellar gearing numbers of a PTW. On the latter, I won't know for a few tanks as I have only had it a week. Pulling away, my clutch point is obviously different (new compared to 138k clutch so hardly surprising), but the car takes off normally (12.2mph for 2000rpm vs 11.3 is negligible). I can quite happily tool around at 10-15mph in the supermarket carpark in 2nd gear at 12-1300rpm without issue - it isn't a case of needing to rev the nuts off in 1st to shift into 2nd - feels no different. Town speed roads (30mph / 40mph) are comfortable in both 3rd and 4th hovering around 1400-1500rpm respectively.
5th is a little longer than 5th in my original box (59.6mph vs 56.8 for 2000rpm, not quite as high as the Tdi90 at 61.3mph), and I have found that this works well on cruise at 40mph on flat backroads, and is good on the local dual carriageway (not that I use this a lot as there are quieter country roads to go home). However, on my single current experience up to around 70 - 5th is fine as a motorway gear, and putting it into 6th at 2100rpm and then activating cruise sounds like the engine has been stolen which bodes well for long distance motorway journeys. If 6th proves too high, putting the final drive from my spare GPK across into the PTW would be an option (drop from 73.7 to 68.7 mph at 2000rpm).
Finally - the new starter has also proved to be an improvement - elimination of the over-run squeal was one benefit, and it seems to spin the engine slightly quicker (reminiscent of a stop-start system) so it fires almost immediately. Will report back with fuel use comments after more experience and hopefully a long motorway run.
hydo14
A2OC Donor
Did you fit a CAYC starter motor?
Sorry about my late response, yes exactly as stated above, a starter from a CAYC-engine stop start system - the donor car in my case was either a Seat or an VW, I can't remember which at the moment. You have to swap the connector as it uses a different one to the original (or use a wire connector which my mechanic did as I didn't have the connector to replace it), but it is a much meatier starter than the original, really sounds just like a recent stop start vehicle in that as soon as you turn the key it hits starting speed and just goes. This was the Ebay image / link / part number, although obviously the link won't work as the part has been on my car for 18 months!
Worth noting that the important thing is the 02Z part number ; there are several Cxxx- engine model numbers all of which are 1.6tdi with stop start, so if it is a CLHA rather than a CAYC or another similar code but this part number it is likely to be right. Key thing with these (in my experience) is highish mileage for a low age : this would suggest lots of long runs with relatively few start-restart cycles in the time, whereas low mileage at any age is quite possibly a huge number of short suburban journeys with the engine constantly switching itself off and on again so giving more starter wear. I think my one had 40-odd thousand miles on it in a couple of years but looked really tidy compared to some that were 6-7 years old with not many more miles and was only about a fiver more expensive than most. Mid 20s quid if I remember.
2017 SEAT ATECA SKODA VW GOLF MK7 1.6 TDI DIESEL STARTER MOTOR 02Z911024L
Worth noting that the important thing is the 02Z part number ; there are several Cxxx- engine model numbers all of which are 1.6tdi with stop start, so if it is a CLHA rather than a CAYC or another similar code but this part number it is likely to be right. Key thing with these (in my experience) is highish mileage for a low age : this would suggest lots of long runs with relatively few start-restart cycles in the time, whereas low mileage at any age is quite possibly a huge number of short suburban journeys with the engine constantly switching itself off and on again so giving more starter wear. I think my one had 40-odd thousand miles on it in a couple of years but looked really tidy compared to some that were 6-7 years old with not many more miles and was only about a fiver more expensive than most. Mid 20s quid if I remember.
2017 SEAT ATECA SKODA VW GOLF MK7 1.6 TDI DIESEL STARTER MOTOR 02Z911024L
Last edited:
MichST4
Member
Hi all,
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
Erlingtheyounger
Member
They don’t unfortunately. Is an MYP or PTU swap not a viable alternative?Hi all,
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
I have the Eurotuning conversion and I had it done many year's ago! I was able to drive an A2 which had had the 6-speed MYP gearbox fitted. It was vastly superior in gear-change action! The throws were shorter and the changes easier. I was very impressed!. That's the route that I'd suggest you take. I've read that it's important to know the history of the gearbox that you're purchasing and if possible, to see it in the vehicle ...
David
David
the gearbox rebuild with custom parts (such as Eurotuning) was the preferred method a few years ago. A much more affordable and easier alternative for the last few years is replacing the A2 tdi 5-speed box with a 6-speed version from the same gearbox family that were used widely in the VAG 1.6tdi-engined range of vehicles up until relatively recently. As mentioned above, these are gearboxes with model codes MYP, PTU, PTW and one or two others used in vehicles like Golf 1.6 Bluemotion and Passat 1.6 Bluemotion (and similar models in the VAG range) - these bolt onto the existing mounts and engine block with only small modifications (a couple of small metal brackets to tie the feet down of the the gear cable mounts, swap over the dog bone, suitable starter motor from a 1.6tdi stop-start car. While being done top the box up with brand new gear oil, maybe fit a new clutch if needed and job's a good 'un. Entire boxes available online in the £450-500 pound range (at the most expensive ) and as cheaply as £200-250 if you are lucky with the search.Hi all,
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
You need to read the MYP thread - From memory post 194Hi all,
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
To answer your first question. No, the owner and driving force of A2 Cars Tony, a principle member on here, unfortunately died a few years ago and the business is no more.Hi all,
Going back to the start of this thread and A2 Cars Milton Keynes. Do they still exist??
I ask, as I've been in contact with Eurotuning in the Czech Republic, and they're currently asking €1300 for the 6th gerar kit, plus €60 postage! Then you've now to think about our wonderful HMRC and their Customs Duty of 20% VAT plus Import Duty!!
Just wondering if the G/Box overhaul/modification offered by A2 Cars still existed and if it was more cost effective?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas & knowledge of A2 Cars.
Andy
timmus
A2OC Donor
The gear change action is a function of the condition of the original gearbox, not a function of the EuroTuning kit.
It only makes sense to add the EuroTuning kit to a gearbox with which you’re otherwise satisfied.
I love the EuroTuning kit in my A2 and maintain that it has a number of advantages over using a 6-speed ‘box from later VAG cars, but it is unquestionably more expensive.
@MichST4, what’s the age of your A2, and what’s the engine code, please?
Cheers,
Tom