Audi A2 by Mtl - getting it back on the road as a weekend car

Fuel filter change on 1.4 AUA engine done.
Together with getting the rest of the old fuel (technically not completelly) out by running the fuel pump with the fuel line open. I was quite surprised that the fuel was (by just looking at it) very clean. I expected to see some gunk in there. This job is easy, should‘t take more than half an hour to be done.
 
Thank you for your helpful videos, which are covering lots of the jobs I need to do! I really appreciate your attention to detail, and especially showing us where all the hidden clips and fixings are so that we don't break them. Please keep up the good work. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtl
mtl said:
Fuel filter change on 1.4 AUA engine done.
Together with getting the rest of the old fuel (technically not completelly) out by running the fuel pump with the fuel line open. I was quite surprised that the fuel was (by just looking at it) very clean. I expected to see some gunk in there. This job is easy, should‘t take more than half an hour to be done.
Click to expand...
Excellent Video clips as usual , Thanks for your efforts.
Cheers,
Ami
 
Brake fluid and clutch fluid replaced:
For the next time I will eighter buy a pressure bleeder or leave it to the professionals. It took about 4 hours to do everything. And especially the clutch flush was annoying due to the limited access to the clutch bleeding nipple.

Sadly clutch fluid flush did not help with the clutch bite point, so I have decided to replace also the clutch with the big service…
 
Last edited:
Yesterday I have tested my DRL setup with 3 single phase 25A bridge rectifiers to lower the voltage and thus get lower illuminosity for DRL setup.
It worked perfect, but the temperature of the black interior part of the rectifier did go up to 100 degrees C and the housing went up to 90 degrees C, which was very surprising to me, because I expected up to 60 degrees C.
Anyway, I have decided to make an aluminum bracket and install it in the empty space in the front left fender, where there is no plastic, etc.
 

Attachments

  • Bracket.jpg
    Bracket.jpg
    343.2 KB · Views: 126
  • DRL testing.jpg
    DRL testing.jpg
    256.8 KB · Views: 125
Last edited:
Finally I will start to do some work on the lower side of the engine, so first you need to remove the engine plastic undertay.


Sadly, it has a small crack, so welding of this crack is also added to the to do list…
 

Attachments

  • Crack.jpg
    Crack.jpg
    128.6 KB · Views: 115
Last edited:
mtl said:
Finally I will start to do some work on the lower side of the engine, so first you need to remove the engine plastic undertay.


Sadly, it has a small crack, so welding of this crack is also added to the to do list…
Click to expand...
I would love to see how to repair that split.
 
It is simple. You just weld the plastic and melt inside stainless steel mesh, which reinforces the weld. Since this plastic is not really visibile it does not matter that it will not be optically perfect. But you can solve also this by using sand paper and sand it. After that you can even paint it. But I will not be doing that.
I will make a video, when I repair the crack.
 
Today I have measured engine compression and on all cylinders it was around 9.5, which made me very happy :). Since the measurment device was not really newest I call this a success, because the specs show that compression should be between 10 and 15 with minimum at 7 and max difference between lowest/highest 3. Compression was measured with cold engine, with warm engine should be higher.
According to my info that means that there should not be a major problem with pistons and engine block, hopefully :). Now I will go forward with major service, brake replacement, replacing the clutch and renewing the starter. And also some other smaller bits. Hopefully everthing will be done in 2 months.
 
Quick update:
''New'' 16 inch SE wheels, roof bars, aluminium lift pins and again a problem with the rear left door lock :(.
 
Last edited:
Being picky here but you may now need to change your "signature" block

No longer full Audi service history.........
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtl
I saw a lot of wheels damaged due to improper removal (with screwdriver, etc.) of the center hub cap. The wheels on my car have exactly that problem. And also hub caps on standard 16 inch SE wheels can easily get damaged: the chrome part, which than starts to peel off.
So I have made a quick video on how to remove and install back the center wheel hub caps without using a McGywer method with a screwdriver that leads to the damage:

Once on my Skoda Octavia I had to almost physically stop the tire repair guy that wanted to remove the plastic nut covers with a screwdriver, so that I got the plastic removal tool from the toolbox and removed them myself...:(
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top