Auto Headlight Install (Bluetooth version)

Hi all,

I want to report that I've been having fitment issues with this switch, bought from the recommended seller on ebay in this thread (so I know it's the "correct" one for a mk4 Golf):

The issue is that the switch sits slightly too far back in the fascia when it's clicked into place, see the picture below - I can make it sit in the right place in the fascia, but then the switch is not being held by anything and it's easy to then pull the whole switch and fascia out of the dash by accident!

Has anyone got any experience of this / any ideas? I already sold Audrey's immaculate hard touch headlamp switch so there's no going back - and actually, fitment aside I'm very pleased with it.

Any help appreciated!
Evening David,

I think this is normal unfortunately as the intended recipient vehicle has the locking barbs in a slightly different position. If you was so fit an A2 headlight switch into a Mk4 Golf it would sit proud.

Both my A2s sporting this feature have this issue which I was going to rectify during the double dashboard transplants over the festive period. It didn't happen though.

Sorry this post isn't that helpful. Soon as I have solved this issue then I will report results.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
@audifan As you can see from my pic I already have a chrome ring - so I guess my only option (given the switch is already a tight fit into my dash, is to position it where I want and use just enough super glue to firmly hold the switch fascia in place so that when I pull on the switch to turn the fog lamps on the whole assembly stays in place.

Anyone else come up with a better solution? Suggestions?!

EDIT: @2work thanks Tom for the input. I must say the visual impact of this mod is spoiled somewhat by this issue for me.
 
No glue needed. If you have fixed the chrome ring into the Audi fascia then remove the fascia from the dash and pull out the new switch and its sensor and wiring.
Fit the switch into the chrome ring from the front and ensure you have it correctly aligned. Now feed the sensor into the dash and connect the wiring plug. There is no need to have the switch itself pushed in and turned to retract the pawls as they are redundant. Feed the assembly back into place until the panel is home. Run the light sensor up the dash / window / A pillar.

I can assure you my switch is rock solid, the turns of tape around the switch where it enters the dash will make it even tighter if desired.


Give it a try.
 
Hmm I did exactly this several times: The switch itself is solidly located into the fascia panel, however the fascia panel then comes out with the switch as a single unit when you pull the switch knob to turn on the foglamps - The only way to stop it doing so is to push the switch (hard!) so that it moves back through the panel home until it clicks, then it does not move - but then the switch is too far back in the fascia as per my photo.

The fascia panel does not have enough purchase into the dash by itself to stop it coming away? What am I missing here?

@timmus has had a look at it whilst he has my car currently and he can't see any other way forwards to resolve this either - save for junking the whole setup and going back to OE.
 
A couple of solutions to consider:
1. Wrap tape around the body of the switch where is goes through the dashboard, this will prevent it moving when you switch on the foglights.
2. Re-cut the slots into which the retaining tabs of the switch locate, you should be able to Dremel these so that the switch is retained further out and therefore flush with the mounting ring.
It's worth re-reading this thread as the same issues were encountered when this mod was first considered.
 
Hmm I did exactly this several times: The switch itself is solidly located into the fascia panel, however the fascia panel then comes out with the switch as a single unit when you pull the switch knob to turn on the foglamps - The only way to stop it doing so is to push the switch (hard!) so that it moves back through the panel home until it clicks, then it does not move - but then the switch is too far back in the fascia as per my photo.

The fascia panel does not have enough purchase into the dash by itself to stop it coming away? What am I missing here?

@timmus has had a look at it whilst he has my car currently and he can't see any other way forwards to resolve this either - save for junking the whole setup and going back to OE.
David,

The resolution I was considering was to cut out new holes/grooves into the fascia trim for the projecting barbs of the headlamp switch. It’s either that or try to utilise the perfectly acceptable method That Graham explains.

I know other Tom has made comment on both my A2s sporting this feature, he clearly isn’t a fan to say the least but you can get it to sit solidly in place with a few turns of loom tape.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
I can’t see how any modification of the fascia panel Tom will bring the switch forward and hold it all securely in place?

As for the other method, I understand it to be to make the barrel of the switch such a tight fit into the holder that it’s held in place by friction even when you pull the switch to turn the fog lamps on - is that right? How does one get it in to the correct position in the first place if it’s that tight a fit?!

If I’d have known the switch doesn’t actually fit correctly I might have re-considered this mod, shame I didn’t pick up on this earlier when I read through the threads on it.
 
David I have tried to explain. What part of the instructions do you not understand? I will try to explain differently if you tell me.

Remember you only need enough resistance from the switch mounting to prevent the switch body rotating or moving in or out of the dash. One turn at the very most 2 full turns of tape to increase the switch diameter.

Are you saying my switch doesn't fit? The switch on my car is mounted so that its face is just slightly lower than the chrome ring, there are no gaps.
When you pass the light sensor into the dash it passes through the circular hole in the inner dash, perhaps that has not been done?

Use my picture to align the switch when fitting if you need to.

To repeat..
Fit the switch into the chrome ring and ensure you have it correctly aligned. Now feed the sensor into the dash and connect the wiring plug. There is no need to have the switch itself pushed in and turned to retract the pawls as they are redundant. Feed the assembly back into place until the panel is home. Run the light sensor up the dash / window / A pillar.
 
Hello guys!
Any news/ changes about android app or iOS?
iOS app crash when scan and android inactive button.
CFA Light and Elecgear.
 
Still no change on this. But remember it is only needed if you want to change any settings. It is not needed to install the switch.
The standard settings should be fine anyway.
 
I need to make some changes.
I've made some settings before and now I want to change something.We are waiting, maybe an update will be made.Thanks for the quick response!
 
There used to be a thread on here for the “non-Bluetooth” version. It involved a manual way of changing the settings (such as turn it on then off the to side lights etc.
Have a dig around. If you find it you may be able to use it to make manual changes.
 
I've kept an old iPhone 6 Plus in case I have a need to change any of the settings. not much good for anything else anyway :)
 
Good news !!!
I have new Samsung Galaxy a13 device with Android 13 ( 5.0 One UI core ) and the application detects switch again without any problems! 👍
I use CFA lights app.
Put switch in 0 position , start ignition, open app. And click connect - the phone will ask you to pair connection enter 123456 password.
For me, phone is asking everytime when I open app. To pair Bluetooth. I click on the app. Screen not pair again because this is infinite steps...
 

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