Back in an A2 - ebay project

Good to hear that you're making progress. My project Cosmo has the combined steering / oil sensor issue - which fuse was going on yours (the big one seems to be intact in mine, so I assume it is the one in the fuse box that powers the steering controller and a few other things that may have tripped)? The air-con valve connector is a new one on me despite all of the reading I've done so if you've got any advice on whereabouts this is and how to get to it (any dismantling needed etc.?) it would be appreciated - does this impact on aircon function at all?. Bear in mind I've also got what I am certain is a leaking diesel pump on the top of the engine so my issues could also be secondary to diesel running over wires below- I have the Bosch replacement and gasket but it is too dreich to get out and perform the swap at the moment.

I had the same symptoms as yourself - I changed the power steering pump but that didn't help. I just disconnected the electrical connector on the air con valve and that solved my issue. Try just disconnecting it first and see how you go.
 
I think I've worked out the aircon valve you are talking about - the expansion valve near to the bulkhead? Will have a look as soon as I can next get under the bonnet (presumably after it stops raining!). Thank you!
 
One update. Have finally availed myself of a big box of mini and slimline plastic blade fuses and sorted out a problem in my A6 (dashcam power plug disintegrated in the cigarette lighter socket and the metal bit that fell off in the socket shorted the contacts & blew the fuse) so just had a look in Cosmo's fusebox. Fuse 38 had a 15Amp blade fuse in it - should be a 10 - presume that was an attempt to return the circuit to life. 15A fuse completely cooked as expected. Haven't replaced yet as the weather here is still bogging but once it dries up a bit I'll do this once I've unplugged the relevant aircon sensor to see if I can re-engage the steering / oil sensor circuit in the same way that you did. As they're only about 3 quid I've ordered a replacement a/c sensor as well, as well as the oil level sensor. I also have a replacement diesel tandem pump to fit once I've had a good look down the back of the engine with a USB endoscope that should be here early next week.
 
I purchased a oil sensor too - but all I did was disconnect the a/c electrical plug and its been working fine!
 
update on the veg oil:

I have put £20 of diesel in with 15 litres of veg oil (£3.50 for 5 litres at Tesco works out to 70p a litre) and have done almost 330 miles - am anticipating around 350 miles+ on the tank - not sure if this is good or bad for these engines but I have also got a JDD box (and no remap) on the car, and a big crack on the front bumper where the black part meets the coloured so would create some drag but I'm not sure how much. Also, the air filter hasn't been changed in the service as I found it in the boot!
 
Working it out - its done around 50mpg - but has cost me £30 for a tank instead of £40 so that's 25% saving per tank on cost of fuel (where diesel is £1.30 per litre, and veg is 70p) - will put more veg in next tank I think!
 
ok - looks like my calculations were off - ive actually done 62mpg which is much better then I thought! - 370 miles on 27 litres
 
Kaz - you're a genius!!!! I have steering and no error messages again! :)

Having done the diesel pump swap (it has lost half a tank of fuel in 84 miles since I filled it up and then realised the problem), I then decided to try unplugging the G65 aircon pressure sensor that sits in front of the radiator / behind the bumper as you suggested above (I also found another thread on here that backed up your suggestion). During this process the entire G65 disintegrated - the connector end came away from the metal sensor body, the area where the sensor circuitry is was chock full of oxide and crap from years of being exposed to Scottish weather so presumably electrically compromised. I'd already ordered a replacement G65 so the replacement is on the list of things to do.

However, then I put in the new Fuse 38. Turned on the ignition .. and .. no error pings, and then when I reversed off the drive, there was assistance to the steering wheel.

I've still got loads to do - but thanks again for your helpful suggestion - the steering fault has defeated 2 automotive electricians and an independent specialist so far..
 
No Worries mate - what else do you have to do? So far I have the following list for my own:

To Do:
--------
Replace G65
Replace front wheel bearing
Replace passenger window switch
Install floppy wiper
Remap
Replace front bumper
Aero mods
FSI rear tailgate
Fit coilovers / replace shocks

-------------
Done so far:
--------------
03/06/19 Fitted double din stereo
03/06/19 Fixed drivers side window
01/05/19 Fitted JDD Gearbox and new valeo clutch
01/05/19 Service using PD oil and Mann Filters
01/05/19 Febi OIl Pump Chain and sprockets
01/05/19 Dayco Timing Belt & Water pump kit
10/06/19 Fitted Team Heko wind deflectors
10/06/19 Repalce front discs and pads
22/06/19 Wire in rear speakers and fit them
22/06/19 Adjust handbrake shoes

***Running of Veg oil :eek:)*** (15-20 litres veg, top up with diesel)
 
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Info for retro fitting cruise from another thread: (Thanks Spike)


PETROL (Thanks Spike)
Cruise stalk pin 2 goes to blue/black wire on pin 7 of white connector (which links to ECU pin 45)
Cruise stalk pin 3 goes to blue/red wire on pin 8 of white connector (which links to ECU pin 44)
Cruise stalk pin 4&7(bridged) go to white wire on pin 10 of white connector (links to ECU pin 14)
Cruise stalk pin 5 goes to black/red wire on pin 9 of white connector (which links to ECU pin 46)
Cruise stalk pin 6 goes to red/green wire on pin 2 of brake light switch - which links to 12v supply from fuse 30 in fuse box.

Diesel (thanks Pysslan)
On an engine with code AUA or BBY you should connect as I stated above but on an AMF or BHC engine you should use the following connections:

The pins should be attached to the T81a contact on the main computer.
pin 46 (ws)
pin 45 (bl/gr)
pin 44 (ro/ge)
pin 14 (sw/ws)
And +12V connected to pin 2 on the brakelight.
 
ok - update on the project - having fitted coilovers and found it too harsh - I have removed them and put on eibach springs and bilstien b4's - ride is much much better - its like driving a modern car again!
 
ok - update on the project - having fitted coilovers and found it too harsh - I have removed them and put on eibach springs and bilstien b4's - ride is much much better - its like driving a modern car again!
How is the height? I've just fitted eibach (e7910-140) to our blue TDI storm with B4's though front is sitting high IMO, rear is OK.
 
it has raised it from the coilovers I had on there earlier - but it drives much nicer - ive gone for the same setup - but rears are not on yet as they are out of stock of the rear shocks in the UK
 
it has raised it from the coilovers I had on there earlier - but it drives much nicer - ive gone for the same setup - but rears are not on yet as they are out of stock of the rear shocks in the UK

How is the ride compared with your original SE setup? Are you still on 16’s? I’m considering Eibach and Bilstein for my FSI Sport on 17’s, as I’ve previously found Eibach and *bigger* wheels (on a Saab 9-3, admittedly), to actually result in a more comfortable and controlled ride.
 
How is the ride compared with your original SE setup? Are you still on 16’s? I’m considering Eibach and Bilstein for my FSI Sport on 17’s, as I’ve previously found Eibach and *bigger* wheels (on a Saab 9-3, admittedly), to actually result in a more comfortable and controlled ride.


I made a mistake in not getting sport top mounts as the front is very slightly higher then being level - however - the ride is what matters.....

Personally, I find modern cars a lot harsher then the standard SE setup - the SE setup is soft and bouncy - a bit too bouncy - going over speed humps and the front shocks bottom out. With the suspension I have now, it is a lot firmer but also much more controlled - enough to get a ping from my dashcam (g sensor shock but I think that's over sensitive anyway) - I can throw the cars into corners which I couldn't do before - go over speed humps no problem without worrying about bottoming out. It does drive like a more newer car.

If you are around Heathrow - your welcome to come and take the car for a spin!

Kaz
 
I made a mistake in not getting sport top mounts as the front is very slightly higher then being level - however - the ride is what matters.....

Personally, I find modern cars a lot harsher then the standard SE setup - the SE setup is soft and bouncy - a bit too bouncy - going over speed humps and the front shocks bottom out. With the suspension I have now, it is a lot firmer but also much more controlled - enough to get a ping from my dashcam (g sensor shock but I think that's over sensitive anyway) - I can throw the cars into corners which I couldn't do before - go over speed humps no problem without worrying about bottoming out. It does drive like a more newer car.

If you are around Heathrow - your welcome to come and take the car for a spin!

Kaz

Thanks Kaz, I’ll have to give you a shout when I’m next passing your side!

I used to be in west london but am now east, which is distinctly speed bump and stop-start central.. totally agree with you on SE being somewhat too bouncy, hence control and compliance = holy grail.
 
Thanks Kaz, I’ll have to give you a shout when I’m next passing your side!

I used to be in west london but am now east, which is distinctly speed bump and stop-start central.. totally agree with you on SE being somewhat too bouncy, hence control and compliance = holy grail.
no worries - I'm near bulls bridge Tesco - you must know where that is!
 
Updates on the car......

As some of you may have seen from my other posts - i had an issue whereby the car would cut out at around a 1/4 tank. This was due to sludge in the fuel pickup - thanks to those on here who helped with that.

Other issues - my mileage has dropped from an average tankful (small tank, not venting) of 360 miles to around 280 miles. I have tried changing the thermostat to a Meyle one and this has not made a difference. 280 miles seems like a consistent number which keeps popping up on various threads but no one has a fix for it. I think i will open a separate thread for that.

My Webasto has not worked since i have had it - i thought i should plug it in as i remembered to do it and got a error code of:
01411 - Temperature Sensor (G18) 37-00 Faulty

Anyone know how to fix this and get the parts needed?

Kaz
 
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