Black Beauty 1.6 FSI Turbo - A2Steve

Would you like to see another A2 Dune build?

  • Yes

    Votes: 15 42.9%
  • No thanks, seen it all before

    Votes: 12 34.3%
  • Why are you asking our opinion? Just get on with it 😊

    Votes: 13 37.1%

  • Total voters
    35
  • Poll closed .
It's probably going to go into the empty void to the right hand side of the engine above the gearbox with some sort of cold air feed from a the foglamp or similar.
 
Just passed her MOT with no defects, really pleased with the way this £400 scrapper has turned around since I picked it up in May.

705DA2CE-0335-4AC8-8119-ACAD9FED00FB.jpeg

2B92FDAB-21B9-4EEB-88F2-455255512F8D.jpeg
 
Hello Steve,

Such a transformation. You certainly do know how to tidy up a sorry looking car.

You’re an inspiration to us all and we can only but hope to achieve something so stunning in a short amount of time along with not selling limbs.

It really must be very satisfying to have it sail through a test after the amount of hours you would have put into this.

Very well done on this one. I’ve liked all your projects, each one for different reasons as they have all had statement work in varying areas, but you know I like a black Audi.

I know this is your (current) keeper but I can already see the queue lengthening ready for when you change your mind.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks for that Tom, no intentions of selling this one though.

I have hankered after an A2 body on an off-roader chassis though ?
 
Sounds like acetone is not an option to soften the glue, so try hot water, or better still, a steam gun. Heat and moisture is next best to solvents.
Mac.
 
You do not need to remove the votex spoiler completely, only the ends where they overlap the lower front wings. Acetone or MEK are the best but unfortunately the most agressive on plastics. Warm the ends with a heat gun and try to peal the glue from one surface using a plastic scraper, as you get it started wedge it apart then work on the next area.Take care not to bend too much as it may crack the paint. IPA is a more "gentle" solvent but check to see if it is affecting the paintwork. If it does do not use. Once the bond has been broken try spraying into the joint with WD40 or similar
 
I would try some nylon fishing line before attacking it with a knife. Much the same way you remove stuck on trim or badges ( normally use dental floss on badges ) get it nice and warm and saw away. Lubricated with WD40.
 
Well the turbo is fitted and up and running. We had a bit of an issue with blow back of engine oil and thought it may have been increased crankcase pressure blowing oil out of the breather.

Rob (mechanic friend who’s doing the work) has just messaged me to say that he’s found the oil leak and it was on the turbo oil return gasket which is now sorted.

It was also running rough and bogging down terribly which he’s now solved by bypassing the boost controller on the turbo. I don’t really understand that part, but just glad it’s now running right.

I’d love to have it back by the weekend because a few of us local members are planning a very small social around the beacons and I’d like to be able to take her.

The fitment of the pipework is very redneck at the moment as we wanted to get it running right before looking to spend money on a shiney alloy hard pipe kit, but here’s the early fitment.

469121C9-9D49-4577-ADE6-AB35A89297AE.jpeg
 
Every time this thread is bumped to the top of the homepage, I get Jeff Buckley's Mojo Pin stuck in my head...


Cheers,

Tom
 
Back
Top