I’m doing the same with mine, it’s probably not worth it unless you enjoy the process and/or don’t value your time, but I’ve learned so much, and driving a “well running” car is so satisfying knowing it’s down to me and the servicing/repairs I’ve made to it.Thanks Tom, I'll estimate, as a percentage, that's its only 15% original car that I bought, 85% replaced lol. Udget motoring? Next time I'll just buy one finished and pay more
I'm loving it, it's teaching me mechanics and giving me new skills and confidence.
Plus it's satisfying when improvements make a difference.
Cheers
Failed MOT :-( handbrake cable nearside, which is the newer looking cable. so ill do full swap of all cables...
Hi - I have a full suite of cables so Im going the whole hogg on it, may aswell :-(Those brake shoes were truly Donald Ducked!
Yep, new handbrake cables will see you right, hopefully only the rear ones that go to each wheel rather than the central one, although after the NLA scare on those it turns out there are plenty around / at AT if needed.
I’m sure you’re going to cover it, but any initial thoughts on the improvement in braking power Ed? Although to me a small part of the improvement will just have resulted from renewing the parts you have on the back.
They are supposed to be crush washer single use. The banjo bolts are 36nm so not super tight, your call, if it seals it seals I guess. You do need the change hubs tho too, so ball joint off, trackside end off, abs sensor out, shock absorber drift out and then you need new bearings for vrs hubs. Budget for new slider pins for carrier as that rubber slack sleeve likely swollen.Mine had braided hoses all round recently as part of my efforts to improve the standard setup (along with grooved Brembo X discs and matching pads) so hopefully it’d be a case of unbolt and swap to the new calipers without having to renew the washers - unless they are single-use only you mean?
Just curious, did you add additional grease to your new rear bearings when you fitted them. In one of the threads someone had commented that they were greased from the factory and you shouldnt add more as the bearings can then "slide rather than rotate" if too much grease is present.Finally the cars down off the jack stands.
New front hubs
288mm discs pads
New audi front hoses
New feont springs top mounts drop links ball joints
New rear bushes in axle
New rear drums, shoes, cylinders and all fittings springs etc inc 12 guide bushes for shoes.
New rear bearings
Nee rear springs and base cups
Sadly handbrake uneven and a bit pants still, despite factory workshop adjustment.
Brake pedal still long.
Not sure it's.going through the mot tomorrow with a pass!
Wow that's crazy, no, I just fit them, if they wear out I'll grease the next ones as not massive money and a simple job.Just curious, did you add additional grease to your new rear bearings when you fitted them. In one of the threads someone had commented that they were greased from the factory and you shouldnt add more as the bearings can then "slide rather than rotate" if too much grease is present.
I wasnt sure about this so contacted Febi Bilstein to check with them. This was their reply:
"Hi I purchased febi bilstein 24224 rear wheel bearings for my Audi A2. Do I need to add additional grease to them when I fit them (and what is recommended) or are they pregreased/sealed and no additional/maintenance needed
Thanks Dave"
"Morning Dave, yes you still will need to use grease, recommend grease is 21909 .
Kind Regards Pete"
So if you read the same post as I did and didnt grease them initially its probably worth revisiting (as I did)
I just pushed pedal down about an inch inch and half and held it there with wooden pole against sear front. This stops the brake fluid from dripping out when you undo anything.What is the press the pedal a couple of times to prevent leaks trick when changing hoses? Sounds brilliant, I hate getting covered in fluid.
TBH I only checked as when I looked at them they're visibly more "open" on the face with the bearings visible than normal sealed bearings, worth taking the caps off again and adding some grease while theyre new, dont want them overheating and possibly seizing upWow that's crazy, no, I just fit them, if they wear out I'll grease the next ones as not massive money and a simple job.
I'm guessing just press soke in with finger around the race?TBH I only checked as when I looked at them they're visibly more "open" on the face with the bearings visible than normal sealed bearings, worth taking the caps off again and adding some grease while theyre new, dont want them overheating and possibly seizing up
View attachment 125518
Yeah, you just need to get some more around the actual ball bearings as in the pic if you canI'm guessing just press soke in with finger around the race?
Having had to take bearing off again I inspected the grease level, it was flush with grease. However I bought some of the recommended grease above and wiped some in pressing it down in.Yeah, you just need to get some more around the actual ball bearings as in the pic if you can
View attachment 125519
Thank you Tom, yes it's got some extras on it and a few to go on still. The jobs are becoming more enjoyable now the mechanicals are sorted outHello Edd,
Looking really good Sir and so glad you’re able to enjoy and employ it after all that you’ve done. It’s quite a special car now isn’t it.
Kind regards,
Tom