Bluey

Taipan said:
Last job of the weekend was a swap of the G263 sensor. I was dreading this slightly as there are lots of horror stories out there. It turned out to be one of the easiest jobs I’ve done!

Two torx screws undone, one connector unclipped, bonnet release mechanism freed and the footwell cover was off

View attachment 25429

Followed by loosening one plastic torx screw to release the footwell air director

View attachment 25430

Followed by unclipping the brake and clutch switches

View attachment 25431

This left enough room for a hand to squeeze between the clutch bracket to allow finger and thumb access to the sensor through the two very handily placed holes in the aluminium cell.

Using the tabs of the connector, I carefully eased the sensor out and then forcing my other arm up behind the pedal box I was able to unclip sensor from connector.

Refit was reverse of removal with a few careful stabs before the locating hole for the sensor was found.

15 minutes and we were done.
Click to expand...


Good write up mate, perhaps you could post this one post as a new item so that it can be added to the how-to section. Very useful and not something ive attempted myself besides needing to. Have you got a photo of the G263 sensor so people know what to 'feel' for?
 
A2Steve said:
Good write up mate, perhaps you could post this one post as a new item so that it can be added to the how-to section. Very useful and not something ive attempted myself besides needing to. Have you got a photo of the G263 sensor so people know what to 'feel' for?
Click to expand...

I'll take a picture of the one I whipped out. It's the long thin rod with an downwards angle in it. In terms of what you feel for, you can actually see the end clearly if you look up past the gubbins that is to the inner side of the bracket by the clutch pedal. It's pretty non-descript. The 'feel' will be the tab wings of the connector. To my knowledge there is nothing else accessible (considering the hand contortion required!) in the area, so mistakenly pulling the wrong thing is almost impossible.

I found it easiest to sit on the passenger seat and lie back at an angle with my face on the upper dash on the passenger side of the instrument binnacle. Closing your eyes and sticking your tongue out are optional to help concentration :D

In terms of feel, you will know you're in the right location as the clutch bracket digs into the back of your hand just above your wrist. Immediately below your thumb will be a hole and through this you will be able to feel the sensor end. Likewise, through a separate hole, underneath your index finger you will also be able to grasp the sensor. Your thumb palm will be completely around the aluminium cell.

The important bit is to realise that the sensor is held in by suction and therefore if you remove the connector before attempting to remove the sensor it's impossible - well it was for me anyhow. Releasing with the connector still on, means you can grasp the tab wings and carefully ease the sensor away.

Removing the connector is a bit of a mission in and of itself and meant I re-positioned so I was facing up in the footwell with my head fighting with the clutch pedal. With a bit of planning, there is a clear path for your left hand through behind the pedal box and up to the end of the sensor. With you right hand following the path it did to remove the sensor in the first place, this means you can get both hands on it and remove the connector really easily.

Refit is simply a repeat of removal but in reverse.
 
Last edited:
This was always considered to be a massive task and Mega money for an Audi Dealership to complete. This was because it was said to be a "dash-out" task to a access that sensor. I have very sad memories of the whole business and was left with a legacy of damage following the work. I have a very simple question to ask. I want to know if replacement of the G263 sensor can anly be done without dash-removal for the petrol version, or can the sensor on a diesel also be done this way? A truly massive saving in labour if it IS possible, that's for sure!

David
 
DJ 190 said:
This was always considered to be a massive task and Mega money for an Audi Dealership to complete. This was because it was said to be a "dash-out" task to a access that sensor. I have very sad memories of the whole business and was left with a legacy of damage following the work. I have a very simple question to ask. I want to know if replacement of the G263 sensor can anly be done without dash-removal for the petrol version, or can the sensor on a diesel also be done this way? A truly massive saving in labour if it IS possible, that's for sure!

David
Click to expand...

I am not 100% certain David. If I was forced, I would be reasonably confident to say that the above procedure should be possible on any A2. I cannot see anything unique to a diesel that would be in the area. A LHD drive car however could be another matter.
 
Taipan said:
I am not 100% certain David. If I was forced, I would be reasonably confident to say that the above procedure should be possible on any A2. I cannot see anything unique to a diesel that would be in the area. A LHD drive car however could be another matter.
Click to expand...
One of the first things I did here at A2OC, was to write a guide about G263 replacement on a LHD car. The dash does not need to come out.
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...emp-sensor-A-k-a-G263-sensor-Error-code-00818
 
Air con high pressure switch (G65)

Changed the G65 switch last night. Regas and a once over this afternoon, so fingers crossed we are back to cold.

Bonnet off and removed the bumper grill, so I could access from above and below (only needed to access from above in the end).
Bumper grill out.jpg

Loosened using an 18mm deep socket and extracted the duff switch. Comparing the old switch (8E0 959 126) with the new switch (3R0 959 126) you can see that Audi changed the design from the earlier part. Knowing this was important because all the various motor factors other than TPS pointed me towards (what I assume is) the switch for a later model A2, that didn’t fit.
old vs new sensor.jpg

All in situ and nipped up using a 24mm deep socket.
new sensor in.jpg
 
fbi said:
There is also another guide for swapping this sensor without removing the dash :
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...-temperature-sender-without-removing-the-dash
Click to expand...

I notice that the process I followed is actually referred to in-brief on the link you posted (post #10).

It seems as needless to remove V70 motor, bracketry etc etc as it does the dash. Be great for anybody suffering a G263 sensor to have all the options laid out in front of them. Perhaps it would be worth collating them all into one document?
 
  • Like
Reactions: fbi
Indeed, I saw post #10 and thought it was exactly what you've found out too :)

BTW, what are the symptoms of a defective G263 sensor ? The cold air is not cold enough ?
It could be useful to mention the price of the sensor, I think.
 
fbi said:
Indeed, I saw post #10 and thought it was exactly what you've found out too :)
Click to expand...
Looking at it on your back with your head smashing into the pedals, it's actually quite logical. There are two approach 'channels': one with the V70 motor in the way and one with a couple of switches in the way. Happy outcome that taking the line of least resistance in this case turned out to be possible! :D

fbi said:
BTW, what are the symptoms of a defective G263 sensor ? The cold air is not cold enough ?
Click to expand...

My air con has never worked since I got the car. I am informed that a defective G263 means that the compressor goes into a sort of limp mode and works at c30% of its capacity meaning that the air is not as cold as it should be. The difference is easily noticeable apparently.

fbi said:
It could be useful to mention the price of the sensor, I think.
Click to expand...

The Hella G263 was c£25 from memory. Judging by the mark-up I paid on my VAG G65, I would think a G263 from Audi would be in the £60-£80 region.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fbi
So regas completed successfully and previous fault codes didn't reappear. Still no cold air.

Noticed the fan wasn't kicking in. Hit it a couple of times with a small hammer (shower of dust and dead flies accompanied each blow :eek:) and it immediately sprung into life. Still no cold air.

Bit more fiddling about to confirm what was probably the issue all along and (one of) the reason the car was sold on to the previous owner so cheaply - the air compressor is dead.

Replacement compressor ordered. Will also replace the drive belt and tensioner at the same time as the current belt looks very shiny and the tensioner is a bit whirree - wouldn't surprise me if they are the original items!

I'm lucky enough to have the use of a lift on Friday to fit it all, which will make life much easier!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top