Boot Struts

fhl

Member
I fitted the springs today. Didn't use the 8mm rings as it resulted in a trunk that would not close. Without the spacers all went smooth. Though there is a little worry about the strain on the joints. Well time will tell.

Cheers
Duncan
May I ask if you used the Febi 23380 tailgate struts (500N) or the oem equivalent Stabilus 024355 (370N)?

Did you purchase the same spring mentioned above 16mm OD/8mm ID/45mm long/Red (rated heavy load) using the link above from @2work and @Jellybean ? Different coloured springs have different stiffness characteristics.

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DuncanA2

Member
I used the 500N stabilus equivalent of the febi 23380. I also used the springs that you mentioned, but I don't believe the colour has anything to do with stiffness characteristics.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Duncan
 

Skipton01

Admin Team
18AF7CE8-30C9-4367-9C14-2F8128717DB5.jpeg
This is what you’ll receive if you order Febi 23380 struts from the auction site.
70286617-C6E9-41D6-A903-BE55119B7F18.jpeg
As you can see, the packaging is all Febi branded but the struts themselves are Stabilius marked.
Work very well though on Tank and are nicely damped at the end of travel.
 

fhl

Member
Today, I installed my Febi Bilstein 23380 aka Stabilus struts (500N) with 8mm ID, 16mm OD and 44mm long compression springs red (using the spring supplier above, and the spring colour does represent different stiffness as the supplier said I could try the green which are stiffer). They sold out of the 45mm long red springs, hence my punt using 44mm red. I also used a 8mm ID washer and all is good. Now, the hatch lifts automatically with the long press on the hatch button on the key fob. I used some molegrips to unscrew the rod ends, gripping the rod to stop it spinning while unscrewing the rod end with the other pair of molegrips. The rod ends are very securely screwed and robust so I'm pleased that this modification will be fine.

I have attached a couple of photos.
557e89855a21a76e1ddc4aa411317947.jpg
4c8c75cef833443831fb9f8749be372d.jpg


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DuncanA2

Member
Did the fit 1:1? I'm asking because I did mine and I had to loose the rings in order to close the trunk. Today I assisted in another exchange and we had to sand 2mm off of the rod ends to close the trunk without too much stress on the joints. Cheers Duncan
 

Weigh6

Member
Today, I installed my Febi Bilstein 23380 aka Stabilus struts (500N) with 8mm ID, 16mm OD and 44mm long compression springs red (using the spring supplier above, and the spring colour does represent different stiffness as the supplier said I could try the green which are stiffer). They sold out of the 45mm long red springs, hence my punt using 44mm red. I also used a 8mm ID washer and all is good. Now, the hatch lifts automatically with the long press on the hatch button on the key fob. I used some molegrips to unscrew the rod ends, gripping the rod to stop it spinning while unscrewing the rod end with the other pair of molegrips. The rod ends are very securely screwed and robust so I'm pleased that this modification will be fine.

I have attached a couple of photos.
557e89855a21a76e1ddc4aa411317947.jpg
4c8c75cef833443831fb9f8749be372d.jpg


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Great write up 👍, but are the washers not meant to go on top of the springs?
 

Skipton01

Admin Team
I've put washers top and bottom to better protect the gas housing and the rod end. No need to grind anything off the 45mm red spring either and everything operates nicely.
 

fhl

Member
Great write up , but are the washers not meant to go on top of the springs?
Thanks and again for sharing your post earlier. Realistically, I don't think the washer is necessary, as the spring is closed ended, ground flat and powder coated to a smooth finish. However, with the 44mm length of spring, I thought I'd include it to make up the 1mm shortfall in my spring length. I'm glad that the 44mm red spring with washer worked. Leaving the washer as I have, also hides the washer. If this setup didn't work, I would have added more washers to act as packers.

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A2Z

A2OC Donor
As someone who is a big believer in keeping a car original and only replacing parts with genuine items unless something is proven to be better than original, Meyle HD drop links for example that are fitted to mine, as I trust the manufacturer who designed and built the car to know better than me (and 99.9% of most other people) and to fit what is correct and best for the car.

That said, I do like the idea of having boot struts that lift the tailgate off the remote.

My concern would be as to how difficult it is to close down?

I suppose the secret is to get a spring that is just adequate enough to lift the tailgate so as to have the least possible resistance when closing it back down.

My struts are original and getting due for replacement soon as they are now offering little resistance in the closing department and in fact the tailgate feels quite heavy and closes fairly abruptly if it isn't supported part of the way down.

I do like the fact the febi/stabilus 23380 ones you guys are buying are at least German made as I would rather my car be unusable than fit any pathetic inferior quality Chinese made rubbish on it no matter how cheap it may be from Alibaba or the like! Why anyone buys this junk is beyond me?

Anyway, if anyone who has fitted these struts could possibly advise on how much force is required to close the tailgate and whether it is comfortable to close or is difficult and also whether anyone has experimented with different rated springs to get the balance just right, that would be much appreciated 👍
 

fhl

Member
As someone who is a big believer in keeping a car original and only replacing parts with genuine items unless something is proven to be better than original, Meyle HD drop links for example that are fitted to mine, as I trust the manufacturer who designed and built the car to know better than me (and 99.9% of most other people) and to fit what is correct and best for the car.

That said, I do like the idea of having boot struts that lift the tailgate off the remote.

My concern would be as to how difficult it is to close down?

I suppose the secret is to get a spring that is just adequate enough to lift the tailgate so as to have the least possible resistance when closing it back down.

My struts are original and getting due for replacement soon as they are now offering little resistance in the closing department and in fact the tailgate feels quite heavy and closes fairly abruptly if it isn't supported part of the way down.

I do like the fact the febi/stabilus 23380 ones you guys are buying are at least German made as I would rather my car be unusable than fit any pathetic inferior quality Chinese made rubbish on it no matter how cheap it may be from Alibaba or the like! Why anyone buys this junk is beyond me?

Anyway, if anyone who has fitted these struts could possibly advise on how much force is required to close the tailgate and whether it is comfortable to close or is difficult and also whether anyone has experimented with different rated springs to get the balance just right, that would be much appreciated
This is rather subjective. I personally think that the hatch feels just right to close now. The added resistance stops it from slamming down. I had Stabilus 370N before and that could slam down if pulled hard, say by anyone other than me

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A2Z

A2OC Donor
This is rather subjective. I personally think that the hatch feels just right to close now. The added resistance stops it from slamming down. I had Stabilus 370N before and that could slam down if pulled hard, say by anyone other than me

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Thanks.

I was probably wrongly concerned that the springs could almost prevent the tailgate from closing and you might have to apply a lot of force to get it to shut but I take it that's not the case?
 

fhl

Member
Thanks.

I was probably wrongly concerned that the springs could almost prevent the tailgate from closing and you might have to apply a lot of force to get it to shut but I take it that's not the case?
It shuts fine. Nothing of note to be concerned about.

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PlasticMac

Member
My concern, if I was considering this mod, (which I'm not), is how it will affect the tailgate's behaviour in the event of a rear end collision. Do you really want the tailgate to fly open?
Just a thought ...
Mac.
 
My concern, if I was considering this mod, (which I'm not), is how it will affect the tailgate's behaviour in the event of a rear end collision. Do you really want the tailgate to fly open?
Just a thought ...
Mac.

I’ve been stuck in an overturned car before and any exit which presents is a good one.

After a collision I’m not sure it’d matter much but the hook and loop catch thing would fail springs or not of it was hard enough so the boot hatch would be loose anyway. You could pull the struts off the sides by hand to get you home if it wasn’t staying latched and it would be much the same as the unmodified experience.

I like the idea myself. Too skint to do it just now though. I can see the appeal certainly.


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pandsnolan

Member
Today, I installed my Febi Bilstein 23380 aka Stabilus struts (500N) with 8mm ID, 16mm OD and 44mm long compression springs red (using the spring supplier above, and the spring colour does represent different stiffness as the supplier said I could try the green which are stiffer). They sold out of the 45mm long red springs, hence my punt using 44mm red. I also used a 8mm ID washer and all is good. Now, the hatch lifts automatically with the long press on the hatch button on the key fob. I used some molegrips to unscrew the rod ends, gripping the rod to stop it spinning while unscrewing the rod end with the other pair of molegrips. The rod ends are very securely screwed and robust so I'm pleased that this modification will be fine.

I have attached a couple of photos.
557e89855a21a76e1ddc4aa411317947.jpg
4c8c75cef833443831fb9f8749be372d.jpg


Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Hi has anyone tried the 45mm green springs ? do they work . Tx
 

herx

Member
I am probably being thick but: trying to replace my old struts and the mounts of the new ones are not aligned to where they are supposed to be mounted. I tried rotating either of the two but they seem fixed in place. When the bottom one for example is aligned, the top one needs to rotate by a 1/4 turn to align. Am I missing something? Thanks
 

fhl

Member
I am probably being thick but: trying to replace my old struts and the mounts of the new ones are not aligned to where they are supposed to be mounted. I tried rotating either of the two but they seem fixed in place. When the bottom one for example is aligned, the top one needs to rotate by a 1/4 turn to align. Am I missing something? Thanks
I had a similar problem. I locked the smaller diameter strut using a grip then gently used another grip to rotate the plastic ball end until it was in the correct alignment.

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herx

Member
I had a similar problem. I locked the smaller diameter strut using a grip then gently used another grip to rotate the plastic ball end until it was in the correct alignment.

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Done! Didn't want to force it before someone confirmed either way so all fitted now - and what a difference from the factory, 20 year old ones! Thanks so much
 
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