Bootlid not locking

E

Evoman

Member
Happy new year all A2OC folks

I'm hoping some advice might be available regarding my bootlid which has just decided to stop working.

Ordinarily I would open the boot manually without pressing the boot unlock button on the key fob. Today I pressed that button on the fob, boot opens no problem then when I close it the it doesn't shut properly. It kind of bounces of the catch or doesn't seem to engage.

DIS shows the boot open and indeed it is. Pressing the key fob locks and unlocks the car just fine and the boot unlock button on the fob makes the usual sound of the switch operating but the boot remains open.

Any tips folks? Could be actual catch not engaging are my first thoughts.

I have seen an airbag light appear a couple of times momentarily very recently, I wondered if perhaps a related (fuse / circuit) issue though the airbag light isn't showing now.

cheers in advance ?
 
Mine goes through periods of bouncing depending on how i drop it. It will lock but the alarm won’t set (I think) - I can hear and see the difference so keep trying until it catches - which it always does after a couple of goes.

I’m interested to hear what people say ?
 
I've had a go a moving the metal hoop that the lock mechanism latches onto but no joy. Looking at it from inside it seems the mechanism just isn't clicking into the lock position. I guess it should be possible to click the lock into the closed position by hand manually (?) which I've tried and it just springs back open again. So assume therefore it is the lock mechanism...
 
I had a look and a few people have reported issues with the lock alignment, some with the mechanism and some with the switch/wiring. If you search ‘boot’ and ‘boot latch’ a few people sorting it came up.
I was sure I remembered a guy in Glasgow who had a thread about having repaired the latch several times on various A2s - think he rewied the sensor/latch - but I can’t find it. Sorry bud
Ps. Are you still offering discount alloy refurb? ? how much for 4x16 with no rubber on?
 
Pinkythelabrat said:
I had a look and a few people have reported issues with the lock alignment, some with the mechanism and some with the switch/wiring. If you search ‘boot’ and ‘boot latch’ a few people sorting it came up.
I was sure I remembered a guy in Glasgow who had a thread about having repaired the latch several times on various A2s - think he rewied the sensor/latch - but I can’t find it. Sorry bud
Ps. Are you still offering discount alloy refurb? ? how much for 4x16 with no rubber on?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. You must be confusing me with someone else that does the wheel refurb work ?
 
There is a "knack" to closing the boot.

The lock is on a delay and so when you press the unlock button it stays unlocked for a second or two.

Many people tend to hurry the closing a bit too much.

There are, of course, technical problems that could cause this but try the following.

If it fails to close and lock properly, press the button, left the tailgate to around chest height, wait a second and then drop the tailgate.

Just make sure that you give the lock time to close again after pressing the unlock button and it should at least improve the closing.


Steve B
 
Birchall said:
There is a "knack" to closing the boot.

The lock is on a delay and so when you press the unlock button it stays unlocked for a second or two.

Many people tend to hurry the closing a bit too much.

There are, of course, technical problems that could cause this but try the following.

If it fails to close and lock properly, press the button, left the tailgate to around chest height, wait a second and then drop the tailgate.

Just make sure that you give the lock time to close again after pressing the unlock button and it should at least improve the closing.


Steve B
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips, gave it a go but it definitely doesn't want to shut properly or lock. New lock mechanism perhaps?
 
I would try pulling the inside emergency release Bowden cable and see if that does anything. - Andy
 
I am leaning towards a replacement lock. I would remove the tail gate trim, something you will have to do anyway to fit a replacement mechanism. It just pulls off but needs a LOT of leverage. Inspection might then reveal something. I am not that familiar with the lock assembly but I imagine if you disconnect the electrics you should then be able to manually lock the boot to secure the car. If you must access the boot use the Bowden cable to open but then the pain of manually locking every time. I seem to remember Paul (Deproman) advocates soldering usually cures the problem but ask him for details.

Andy
 
The way that the boot mechanism works would mean that once it is mechanically lined up, if it was electrically disconnected, it would close and lock every time and you would only ever have the hassle of pulling the cord when you wanted to open it.

But I am pretty sure that it may be an easy fix, there is not much complexity to the mechanism.

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
The way that the boot mechanism works would mean that once it is mechanically lined up, if it was electrically disconnected, it would close and lock every time and you would only ever have the hassle of pulling the cord when you wanted to open it.

But I am pretty sure that it may be an easy fix, there is not much complexity to the mechanism.

Steve B
Click to expand...

Really appreciate all the input and suggestions guys. Now for removing the trim I understand some force is needed but there just isn't anywhere obvious to grab the thing. I was thinking a pair of strong tyre levers might help to prise the trim away from the bootlid to then gain access to the clips?
 
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I use plastic trim levers bought from Amazon, or if really tight, one of those flat crow bars that you would normally use on floor boards. Protect the paint work, obviously.
 
Yes. I have never had to use any levers etc. I am always worried about sliding something in and causing problems with the many electrical circuits etc. ( you will see them when you get the cover off.)

It is a case of using brute force to get your fingers into one area and pull HARD!!

Levers may help but the can cause problems because of the very localised pressure they put on one spot on the trim.

I am not saying that people should not use them, obviously sone people find they help, but I prefer to get it started in one corner and then pull hard to get the clips to release.
Knowing where the clips are certainly helps when refitting because even more brute force is required to get them fully located.

Each to their own when it comes to this piece of trim though.

Steve B
 
A very useful video, thanks.

But if you look closely you can see that he is actually damaging the cover where he is forcing in the wedge in,not much damage but it is leaving an indentation in the cover.

To me once you have the first gap started you no longer need the wedge because you can get your fingers in and pull down. This releases the nearby clips and so you can then reposition your fingers and get the next clip off too.

Using the wedge all around the cover (to me) does minor damage to the trim unnecessarily. You can see just how much pressure it puts on the very thin cover.

Steve B
 
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