Brake Pad Wear Sensor Repair Guide - Short Cable Version

Alan_uk

A2OC Donor
This is a guide to repairing the Brake Sensor cable using a short repair cable. I obtained a VW short cable which much cheaper that the Audi long repair cable.

Problem

The brake pair wear symbol is displayed on the dash board.

Note: the sensor is only on the near-side front brake pad. There is an electrical circuit through a wire in the pads. When the pads wear the wire is broken (open circuit) and the brake pad wear symbol is displayed. The symbol will also be displayed if there is a break in the wiring (cabling). A circuit diagram and diagnostic guide for an A3 can be found here:
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?68730-should-my-car-have-brake-pads-wear-indicator The A2 might be similar but diagnostic guide is probably the same.

Possible Reasons for the Fault

1. The brake pads are indeed worn – replace.
2. The wire from the pads to the plug/socket situated on the front suspension is broken – buy new pads.
3. The plug/socket is broken – if the socket is broken then buy new pads. If the plug is broken then either buy a sensor wire repair kit or repair as per my other guide.
4. The wire from the plug/socket to the dash board is broken – if it is broken between the plug/socket and the main wiring harness then buy a sensor wire repair kit or possibly repair the wire yourself. If broken in the main wiring harness then a new wire will need to be run to the dashboard. There are 2 repair kits: short and long

This guide is for 4 using the short cable.

long repair cable, which is for both the brake sensor and ABS, is threaded into the engine compartment and then through the bulk head and down to the bottom of the A pillar by the passenger door where the connectors are. This is a difficult job. Alternatively some people have cut this long cable and spliced it into the loom inside the engine compartment.

short repair cable splices into the loom inside the wheel arch and keeps the existing ABS wires.

Disclaimer

This guide is used entirely at your own risk. The author is not responsible for any consequences in following this guide. This guide is definitely not recommended for fixing the ABS wheel rotation sensor.


Safety

As you will be working under the wheel arch without the wheel on, then support the car with axle stands. I slid a car ramp underneath the suspension with a block of hardwood on top. He then lower the vehicle until the ramp begins to take the weight.

New Short Cable and Circuit Diagram

The next photo shows the circuit diagram and the short cable. The circuit diagram was used to identify the brake sensor wires colours: Yellow and Red. Note that I've seen comments that Audi is not always consistent in the actual colours used.

New Short Cable and Circuit Diagram.jpg


Trial Fit to see where to join

I attached the socket to prongs on the hub and noted the position to splice.

Trial Fit to see where to join.jpg


Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

On the workbench I terminated the repair cable with butt terminators that are pre-covered in shrink wrap. I special tool is needed to squeeze the butt terminators. These terminators are preferred to soldering as solder joints can crack. Note that I offset the 2 terminators to reduce the overall thickness.

Cable + Heat Shrink Butt Connectors.jpg


The tool may not be the correct one as the shrink wrap was not looking brilliant. It's imported that the wire is gently tugged to test it has been crimped. It's best to test crimping and the tool on some spare cable first. Sometimes using a too small an opening on the tool ends up with the butt terminator jammed in the claws.

Crimped the new cable ends.jpg


continues ....................
 
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Brake & ABS sensors cable split open

Using a sharp knife/scalpel I carefully made a vertical cut in the brake/ABS sensor cable taking care not to damage the wires inside.

A2 cable split open.jpg


Next I cut the Yellow and Red wires and joined them together, switched on the ignition and checked the brake sensor warning did not appear/sound. If it had, then this would indicate that the break was further along the cable towards the engine compartment. This would necessitate the long repair cable.

Test the circuit.jpg


Holding the cable while crimping

It's a bit cramped under the wheel arch so I held the repair cable while I inserted the spliced wires.

Holding the cable while crimping.jpg



The next bit is tricky. The butt terminators need to be crimped without the wires falling out. A more important risk is that the crimping is insufficient and when giving a gentle tug test then the wire comes out. It will be very difficult to reinsert into a crimped terminator. Cutting off the terminators and redoing may be necessary but there is not much slack cable to do this.

Shrink the connectors

I made a heat shield to protect the wires either side of the butt terminators and used a miniature heat gun specifically made for heat shrinking.

Metal shield for heat gun.jpg


continues ....
 
Extra Heat Shrink Tubing

I then added extra heat shrink tubing. As this cannot be threaded on then I took some wide heat shrink, cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around and used some fine wire to stop it unravelling while applying the heat gun.

Extra Heat Shrink Tubing.jpg


Tesa cloth fabric tape

Finally the whole cable was wrapped in Tesa adhesive cloth fabric tape.

Tesa cloth fabric tape.jpg


I did this almost 2 years ago and it is still working though it needs a periodic check to ensure the fabric tape is not unravelling.
 
Delayed response, but thanks Alan. Just what I was looking for my pad wear wiring appears to be long gone, hopefully I can restore it now! Best Regards
 
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