Car alarm when driving

[Jilx]

Hi , can someone help me with my little car

the alarm has decided to go off randomly.

It did it when i was driving aswell, or when its not even locked or if its locked. I go out and click the button and open doors etc and it just locks and un locks but didnt stop bleeping.

It stops when it pleases for a while then starts back again for no reason. To be honest this wee car has not been much bother until now really its a lovely wee thing.

Now Iv broken off the wee switch with a kitchen knife beside the petrol open button in a rage trying to shut it up

that hasn't stopped it either so i pulled the black cable off the battery just now and its finally stopped. (Hopefully for the night )

Its just the bleeping , not the flashing so for a while i pretended to my neighbours it wasnt my car . Coz its 1.30am .

Tomorow when i hook it back up what can i try to correct this.

Im not really knowledgable about cars in the slightest so can you reply in simple advice please?

I live in a good place so it wont matter if it is never locked but it does it when its unlocked whatever thats about.

Prior to this it only did the full beeping and flashing once a few years ago on a hot day when i left it at the beach car park with all its windows down but it immedietly stopped when i clicked its key.

Thanks
Jill

 

[Sylvester]

I'm sure others will comment as well, as soon as they wake up as it's rather late now, but first thing need to be done is a CCU scan and check battery voltage.
If you got a good scanner or VCDS, go to "engine " then "measuring blocks" then " channel 4", this will show the battery voltage, should be 12.5v. Chances are it won't be, mine shows 10.5v, but I'm dealing with electrical issues at the moment.

Next step is scan again, and go to "engine" then "46", it's a module scan, this is a blessing as normal engine scan check EML and not the CCU, which you need it now.
This can show a lot of fault codes, as it shows old ones too, if they weren't deleted after fixing an issue, mine had 8 stored codes. Make notes and check what they mean.
These should give you a good start.

 

[mtl]

Short circuit on alarm siren maybe?
CCU problem?

 

[Jeff Sutcliffe]

I'm not sure whether 'can you reply in simple advice please' wasn't noticed by the two previous members but, my advice is to call out the AA or RAC if you're a member of either organisation; otherwise, arrange to get the problem diagnosed by a reputable garage - which, going from your location, I realise might involve quite a long journey.

 

[steve_c]

There's no simple answer when the OP is so far from a VW / Audi specialist but I'll give it a go.

Often when an A2 starts sounding the alarm spontaneously, it's not the alarm itself that is the cause of the problem, but something telling the alarm that the car is locked, but that there is activity detected inside the car.

The locks can 'cycle' - that is repeatedly, randomly click as though the remote fob is being pressed when it isn't. Is this something you have experienced?

If you have 2 car keys, I'd try just using one of them, and removing (for now) the battery from the fob of the other. If the problem persists, I'd then try swapping over to the other key, now taking the battery out of the first fob.

Please let us know how you get on.

 

[steve_c]

There's an independent VW / Audi specialist in Inverness, and this is probably the closest to you.

Kenny's Autorepairs, 20 Seafield Road IV1 1SG phone 01463 718652. Kenny's have no website.

Another option is Chalmers, not a VW / Audi specialist, but claims specific expertise working with VAG vehicles.
Chalmers, Unit 2, Walker Road, IV1 1TD phone 01463 713251. Chalmers website:

Local garage | Chalmers Garage

Chalmers Garage is a local garage that serves customers in Inverness and across the Highlands. Contact us today for more information.

www.chalmers-garage.com

In your position, I'd likely speak to Kenny's first.

 

[Andrew]

I am surprised nobody has said push service flap firmly shut.

Andy

 

[Providence]

https://fuse-box.info/audi/audi-a2-8z-1999-2005-fuses-and-relays

According to this site if you remove fuse 34 you disable the hazard light relay and fuse 36 gets rid of the alarm (and other things) which might make it driveable without going insane, to your nearest expert.

I am assuming that the car will run without fuse 36... I'm sure someone else will be along to comment!

 

[2work]

https://fuse-box.info/audi/audi-a2-8z-1999-2005-fuses-and-relays

According to this site if you remove fuse 34 you disable the hazard light relay and fuse 36 gets rid of the alarm (and other things) which might make it driveable without going insane, to your nearest expert.

I am assuming that the car will run without fuse 36... I'm sure someone else will be along to comment!

Evening,

I'm unable to suggest removing fuse 36 is a good idea or even safe to do so, from the fuse layout this particular fuse looks to supply, but possibly not limited to, the Central Locking, Interior Lights and Air Conditioning:

What I'm confident in stating though is that by removing fuse 34 you will have no turn signals/indicators. The hazard warning lights reside on fuse 7.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,

Tom

 

[Jilx]

I am surprised nobody has said push service flap firmly shut.

Andy

What is this where do i find it, iv just had to not lock the car for years & sw the battery off in the boot with a spanner thing then sw it on to use the car which is a carry on coz iv to pull the cable thing in the back window to open the boot & then turn the battery on each time.

As soon as i turn the battery on there is a noise coming from the boot on the right , it sounds like a speaker crackeling, . If i leave the car for about 2 hours without sw the battery off the alarm starts going off & then the battery goes flat. So i have to sw it off every time

I got a new battery , same straight away, this has been years now its had 2 mot's like this & my worry now if the cable thing to open the boot which im sure is only for occasional use is starting to wear out . Im not going off to Inverness garages , thats a 6 hour round trip (plus however long they take to faff about) . Iv a dog, a child & 2 jobs to pay the bills, iv no time for that.

Does anyone know what the crackeling noise could be? Its not the radio/cd machine coz i found which is the fuse for it in the owners book & took it out the car & it still flattens its battery & its alam goes off after 2-3 hours before it goes flat, whatever that is the noise im hearing, i think thats not going off when i sw the car off with the key, i can hear it starting up in the boot the noise when i turn the battery on, its constant , sounds like a radio thats not tuned to a station & is on the right in the boot roughly on top of the back wheel but under the fabric or something.

I dont know anything about cars & its taken 2 years of this fault now & the car still goes about perfect except this issue

This is its number Yx04ZNY ,

 

[Colin 540]

Hi,
Sent you a pm

 

[Andrew]

What is this where do i find it, iv just had to not lock the car for years & sw the battery off in the boot with a spanner thing then sw it on to use the car which is a carry on coz iv to pull the cable thing in the back window to open the boot & then turn the battery on each time.

As soon as i turn the battery on there is a noise coming from the boot on the right , it sounds like a speaker crackeling, . If i leave the car for about 2 hours without sw the battery off the alarm starts going off & then the battery goes flat. So i have to sw it off every time

I got a new battery , same straight away, this has been years now its had 2 mot's like this & my worry now if the cable thing to open the boot which im sure is only for occasional use is starting to wear out . Im not going off to Inverness garages , thats a 6 hour round trip (plus however long they take to faff about) . Iv a dog, a child & 2 jobs to pay the bills, iv no time for that.

Does anyone know what the crackeling noise could be? Its not the radio/cd machine coz i found which is the fuse for it in the owners book & took it out the car & it still flattens its battery & its alam goes off after 2-3 hours before it goes flat, whatever that is the noise im hearing, i think thats not going off when i sw the car off with the key, i can hear it starting up in the boot the noise when i turn the battery on, its constant , sounds like a radio thats not tuned to a station & is on the right in the boot roughly on top of the back wheel but under the fabric or something.

I dont know anything about cars & its taken 2 years of this fault now & the car still goes about perfect except this issue

This is its number Yx04ZNY ,

Good Evening,

I was meaning the service flap at the front that you open when filling up the wiper spray, but having just reread the thread I doubt this is the cause of your problem.

I don't know how you have put up with the 'get round it' rigmarole with the battery for 2 years, it would have driven me to distraction, but pleasing you still appreciate the A2. You are right the boot emergency release is only for occasional use, only made of flimsy plastic cord it won't last much longer and then you will be in a bigger mess, you have to get it sorted.

There is nothing wrong with having no car fixing skills (or tools I expect) but with your remote location and no local VW specialists it makes advice very difficult. You need somebody with specialist knowledge and skills to fix properly the one or more faults present but in the short term the only simple DIY I can suggest is to disconnect the alarm, sounds like you can live without an alarm in your safe corner of the world.

I have never had any need to access the alarm (& its controller?) so can offer no further detailed help, you will have to depend on others on here, but I believe it is located in the boot on the right hand side, (somebody please verify), the probable source of your noise. It lives behind the large internal wheel arch trim under the the petrol flap mechanism and back of the rear light cluster. Removing the trim not a simple task.

If you feel not confident about tackling this then a small local non-specialised garage in Thurso should be easily capable, although they will probably break some trim fixings but worry about that later.

Andy

 

[Jilx]

Good Evening,

I was meaning the service flap at the front that you open when filling up the wiper spray, but having just reread the thread I doubt this is the cause of your problem.

I don't know how you have put up with the 'get round it' rigmarole with the battery for 2 years, it would have driven me to distraction, but pleasing you still appreciate the A2. You are right the boot emergency release is only for occasional use, only made of flimsy plastic cord it won't last much longer and then you will be in a bigger mess, you have to get it sorted.

There is nothing wrong with having no car fixing skills (or tools I expect) but with your remote location and no local VW specialists it makes advice very difficult. You need somebody with specialist knowledge and skills to fix properly the one or more faults present but in the short term the only simple DIY I can suggest is to disconnect the alarm, sounds like you can live without an alarm in your safe corner of the world.

I have never had any need to access the alarm (& its controller?) so can offer no further detailed help, you will have to depend on others on here, but I believe it is located in the boot on the right hand side, (somebody please verify), the probable source of your noise. It lives behind the large internal wheel arch trim under the the petrol flap mechanism and back of the rear light cluster. Removing the trim not a simple task.

If you feel not confident about tackling this then a small local non-specialised garage in Thurso should be easily capable, although they will probably break some trim fixings but worry about that later.

Andy

Perfect thanks i will pull that off & see whats in behind there, next weekend, im not bothered if it wont go back on. That deffo wont effect like an imoboliser type situation or anything switching that off? Is the alarm just a noise, doesnt effect the engine?

That button beside the petrol opening button in the drivers door for switching off the inside sensors fell off ages ago so i wonder if that has messed with the alarm. I will poke about in it & see if it stops the cracking noise as that will be fantastic if i can get this finally resolved.

I cant see a car i like better so each time this one gets an MOT its only wear n tear it is super reliable (if i sw its battery off) hence why i keep it . Also all these modern cars has more issues than vogue , my friends has cars on HP & have loads of gadgety things break on them. I love my wee car

 

[PlasticMac]

I think the CCCU is the prime suspect here. The alarm should not be active, once the car is unlocked. So, for the alarm to trigger when the car is unlocked, the CCCU is misbehaving. No report of battery drain, so locks are probably OK.
@Jilx Could you check that the alarm is working, when the car is fully locked, to rule the actual alarm system out please? A scan might help, but will probably just show what sensor is triggering the alarm.
Worth checking that the under floor compartment where the CCCU lives is nice and dry, as any dampness there will upset things. Would mean the car's off the road, but @timmus can repair your CCCU, if you post it to him.
Good luck.
Mac

 

[Jilx]

There's no simple answer when the OP is so far from a VW / Audi specialist but I'll give it a go.

Often when an A2 starts sounding the alarm spontaneously, it's not the alarm itself that is the cause of the problem, but something telling the alarm that the car is locked, but that there is activity detected inside the car.

The locks can 'cycle' - that is repeatedly, randomly click as though the remote fob is being pressed when it isn't. Is this something you have experienced?

If you have 2 car keys, I'd try just using one of them, and removing (for now) the battery from the fob of the other. If the problem persists, I'd then try swapping over to the other key, now taking the battery out of the first fob.

Please let us know how you get on.

I think the CCCU is the prime suspect here. The alarm should not be active, once the car is unlocked. So, for the alarm to trigger when the car is unlocked, the CCCU is misbehaving. No report of battery drain, so locks are probably OK.
@Jilx Could you check that the alarm is working, when the car is fully locked, to rule the actual alarm system out please? A scan might help, but will probably just show what sensor is triggering the alarm.
Worth checking that the under floor compartment where the CCCU lives is nice and dry, as any dampness there will upset things. Would mean the car's off the road, but @timmus can repair your CCCU, if you post it to him.
Good luck.
Mac

Yes it flattens the battery a few hours after its left parked the alam starts going then shortly after the battery goes dead

 

[PlasticMac]

Yes it flattens the battery a few hours after its left parked the alam starts going then shortly after the battery goes dead

Thanks. I'm sticking with the CCCU as suspect. Alarm triggering when it should be de-activated, and battery drain, point that way for me.
A scan would check the lock switches out though.
If @Jilx has a Windows laptop, an ebay lead and free share ware version of VCDS Lite is all it would take. In view of your isolated location, a bit of self diagnostic capability wouldn't go amiss.
Mac

Mac.

 

[Andrew]

Good Afternoon,

Perfect thanks i will pull that off & see whats in behind there, next weekend, im not bothered if it wont go back on. That deffo wont effect like an imoboliser type situation or anything switching that off? Is the alarm just a noise, doesnt effect the engine?
.....

I am fairly sure disconnecting the alarm will not interfere with the immobiliser and after will drive fine, just removing the noise so you can avoid disconnecting the battery after every drive, but it is only a stop-gap.

....
That button beside the petrol opening button in the drivers door for switching off the inside sensors fell off ages ago so i wonder if that has messed with the alarm. I will poke about in it & see if it stops the cracking noise as that will be fantastic if i can get this finally resolved.
....

I too wondered about that, good in future not to massacre bits in a rage with a kitchen knife. I think for now the best course of action is to remove the switch and disconnect it so it is out of the equation. The switch just pulls out with a bit of leverage and you will see the connector to remove. These connectors can be an absolute pig to remove, suggest you watch a few YouTube videos to get the idea, just Google 'VW connectors'. Ask here for help if needed.

Back to the boot side trim removal, as I said it is not trivial. An extract from the workshop manual to help but it does refer to prior preparatory work.

When this trim is off you can get at the alarm connector to detach.

I have read in an older post it is not necessary to remove the alarm to detach the connector, just slightly loosen the alarm bracket bolt and rotate to gain better access to the connector.

I agree with Mac the root cause of the problem is likely to be the CCCU, in simple terms it is a small computer that manages lots of stuff in the cabin. Silencing the alarm is just an interim tactic, you may well find the battery still drains after, fingers crossed, but cross that bridge if need be next week.

Vogue? Who's this?

Andy

 

[Andrew]

Thanks. I'm sticking with the CCCU as suspect. Alarm triggering when it should be de-activated, and battery drain, point that way for me.
A scan would check the lock switches out though.
If @Jilx has a Windows laptop, an ebay lead and free share ware version of VCDS Lite is all it would take. In view of your isolated location, a bit of self diagnostic capability wouldn't go amiss.
Mac

Mac.

Good Afternoon Mac,

I agree but I suspect best to keep things simple for a member who's self-confessed car fixing skills are putting in petrol and topping up the wiper spray tank.

Andy

 

[Deleted member 20348]

I think that the more detail you can include the better.
It's a great way to share your knowledge to others on here.
Thinking out loud......

I imagine someone else reading this post who can do their own mechanical jobs it's really handy for them to know.

Plus your detailed replies can be printed off and taken to the mechanic. A great way to help relay the problem that exists with their car.

Don't stop the detail, it is required, just suggest that its printed off and shown to the mechanic.
Great work!

 

[Jilx]

Good Afternoon,


I am fairly sure disconnecting the alarm will not interfere with the immobiliser and after will drive fine, just removing the noise so you can avoid disconnecting the battery after every drive, but it is only a stop-gap.


I too wondered about that, good in future not to massacre bits in a rage with a kitchen knife. I think for now the best course of action is to remove the switch and disconnect it so it is out of the equation. The switch just pulls out with a bit of leverage and you will see the connector to remove. These connectors can be an absolute pig to remove, suggest you watch a few YouTube videos to get the idea, just Google 'VW connectors'. Ask here for help if needed.

Back to the boot side trim removal, as I said it is not trivial. An extract from the workshop manual to help but it does refer to prior preparatory work.

View attachment 118296

When this trim is off you can get at the alarm connector to detach.

View attachment 118297

I have read in an older post it is not necessary to remove the alarm to detach the connector, just slightly loosen the alarm bracket bolt and rotate to gain better access to the connector.

I agree with Mac the root cause of the problem is likely to be the CCCU, in simple terms it is a small computer that manages lots of stuff in the cabin. Silencing the alarm is just an interim tactic, you may well find the battery still drains after, fingers crossed, but cross that bridge if need be next week.

Vogue? Who's this?

I think the CCCU is the prime suspect here. The alarm should not be active, once the car is unlocked. So, for the alarm to trigger when the car is unlocked, the CCCU is misbehaving. No report of battery drain, so locks are probably OK.
@Jilx Could you check that the alarm is working, when the car is fully locked, to rule the actual alarm system out please? A scan might help, but will probably just show what sensor is triggering the alarm.
Worth checking that the under floor compartment where the CCCU lives is nice and dry, as any dampness there will upset things. Would mean the car's off the road, but @timmus can repair your CCCU, if you post it to him.
Good luck.
Mac

Yes the battery drains , this is why i sw it off.
I stop the car & open boot sw off battery & when i go back to the car i lean over back seat pull cable to open boot as im putting the dog in the back seat, open boot, turn battery on & it starts the noise like a radio, (i can also hear it in the boot when the car is off & im putting the battery off, ) it sounds like a geiger counter or radio off station

its deffo not the radio coz i tried pulling that fuse years ago and all that happened was no cd player etc so its back on now.

If i forget to sw the battery in the car boot off when i park , around 2-3 hours later the alarm starts chirping & if i dont go out & turn the batt off its flat by morning. . So im not fussed for turning the alarm off if thats not whats flattening it because i will have no reminder then to turn it off.

If the alarm is the cause of the flattening tho im cool with having no alarm.

Im not sure if the locks works i havent locked the car in a year , it was hardly locked regardless of this issue. I used to lock occasionally if i went holidays & had like ipads n stuff lying about.

Locking the car didn't help as i tried that at first & it still had exact same issue , alarm after an hour the dead battery, got new battery & same 3 hours later it was chirping away & went flat .