Changed ingition barrel now the immobiliser light is flashing and the remote won't work

S

Simon_Blackburn

Member
Good evening - I wonder if anyone has any intelligence on this please?

I have changed the ignition switch (lock stock and barrel) after the other one fell to pieces. That was fun, drilling out the old shear bolts, but I persevered.

As far as I can tell, the black immobiliser ring doesn't come off the assembly.

Moreover, the tiny immobliser plug that fits onto the ring wasn't the same type...

So I smashed the old immobiliser ring off the old ignition, plugged it in and rested it in the steering column housing to see if it would make anything better.

It didn't. So now I have the immobiliser light flashing and the remote fob doesn't work. The alarm is intemperate but I can drive the car because it has a proboost ECU in it.

What is the answer please? will it work if I put the redundant key part next to the old immobiliser ring or is the transponder in the bit with the battery?

I have two spare keys so was thinking that if the transponder is in the bit with the battery I could just hide one next to the old immobiliser ring and get another new key cut so I have two working keys.

Any advances please?

Best wishes
Simon
 
Ok, so the alarm kept going off... I have taped the old key end (the bit without the buttons on) to the old immobiliser ring and tucked it into the plastic shrouding. That did the trick - all the buttons work on the new key and all I now have to do is order another couple of key ends (sans buttons) and get them cut!!!

You heard it here first...
 
Good Evening Simon,

The immobiliser chip is in the 'top half' of the remote fob.

1659397171542.jpeg


Andy
 
Although for at least insurance purposes you really want the immobiliser to function. Curious to know why you took this destructive route rather than just replace the barrel inside the ignition switch. New blades for the new lock ( best to replace the door lock so only one key to operate both ) and functioning with your existing ID48 chips....

Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Vehicle electrics | Electrical system | Lights, lamps, switches outside | Lock cylinder and ignition/starter switch | Removing and installing lock cylinder

A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Vehicle electrics | Electrical system | Lights, lamps, switches outside | Lock cylinder and ignition/starter switch | Removing and installing lock cylinder
workshop-manuals.com

Although it says you need a flat non remote key it can be done with the plastic valet key or by removing the blade from a remote key.
 
Good quesiton AudiFan - the old barrel collapsed and I couldn't get the removal process to work. I had to chisel out the broken parts of the lock to make the old key work temporarily before I got the new bit. So have had to take this route. In any event, the immobiliser is disabled in the Proboost ECU so you can start the car, it just makes the alarm go mental.

Andrew, thanks for the picture - this explains why leaving the top part of the key taped to the immobiliser was a solution.

But sorry to have offended anyone's sensibilities. I like the car to be as original as possible but having spanked £650 on parts to do the fuel injectors, starter motor and CV joint, I wasn't in the mood to source another barrel with the right electrical plug and then spend more at the stealer to get it all coded. There is plenty of space in the steering column housing so this makes it look perfect from the outside and everything works on the inside. £5 each for 2 blanks and I just refit the bottom part of the fobs to the remotes.
 
As you say the Proboost comes with disabled immobiliser, so that is not an issue. Because the immobiliser is disabled the dash will continue to flash the immobiliser icon. How you will fare when the car gets Mot'd do not know as dash warnings are now usually a fail. Can you swap out the barrel in this lock assembly for the correct Audi A2 one - again with new blades? Must admit would be tempted to get a replacement original barrel so you can use the original key blades and match the door lock.
 
Officially the immobiliser ring does not come off, but if you know how you can swap them over. They are retained onto the barrel by a large C clip and a couple of lugs to orientate the reader in the main lock part. I remember seeing a youtube video with someone showing this on a VW. Now where did I see that video.......

After much searching found it...


 
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