Clutch is making grinding sound, that could wake up the neighbours...

Sylvester

Member
Hi all, so finally when the MOT got sorted last month and looked like all bits working good, this morning the clutch decided it's turn now :(

Since I've had the car, for over 3 years now with 160k+, the clutch always been a bit heavy and shakey like a foot massage. Never really been other issues or odd noise, few times reverse & 1st needed re-clutch, but than it worked right away. MOT never mentioned it, so rather I had payed attention to knows issue.

I'd driven the car yesterday at 10pm with no issues. This morning at 5am I wanted to go to work, but the clutch felt sticky and cluncky even before starting the engine, then when putting it in 1st gear, it made a sound like I was trying to push a rusty rod through the engine bay...
I'd restarted the engine, unfortunately same result.

I see no leaks, the clutch didn't slip before either. Not sure if the clutch ever been changed.
I'd changed the oil last week from 5w30 to 5w40, as others mentioned is reduces piston slap.
2 weeks ago I'd bleed the brake and clutch fluids, no leaks from the nipples, reservoir shows same level. The clutch vibration actually got reduced a bit then.

Anything I can check, or it's all internal parts, perhaps I can check the shifter links might be related?
I've researched the issue and came across someone changing the whole gearbox due similar issues. I've never done this level of work, so it might be an expensive garage job :(
Any info is appreciated, cheers.

 
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Sounds very much like the clutch release bearing or the actuating arm has failed. Both will require the gearbox to be removed to repair. As you’ve done 160k it’s worth replacing the clutch friction plate and pressure plate at the same time.
 
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To be fair, you have lived with a clutch issue for a few years now. Strip it down ( or your mechanic ) then replace the clutch COMPLETE. While the gearbox is off have that checked out for any damage or worn parts. Far cheaper to do the two jobs at the same time. Even if the gearbox is good ideal time to replace the selector tower and clean out the old oil and replace with the correct Audi stuff.
 
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Sounds very much like the clutch release bearing or the actuating arm has failed. Both will require the gearbox to be remote repair. As you’ve done 160k it’s worth replacing the clutch friction plate and pressure plate at the same time.
I've done only 15k of it, but 20 years and 160k does sound a lot on the same clutch, it's just happened do suddenly in my opinion.
How much do you assume it should cost? I'm gonna ask around for quotes, just don't want to run into over charges. Cheers
 
To be fair, you have lived with a clutch issue for a few years now. Strip it down ( or your mechanic ) then replace the clutch COMPLETE. While the gearbox is off have that checked out for any damage or worn parts. Far cheaper to do the two jobs at the same time. Even if the gearbox is good ideal time to replace the selector tower and clean out the old oil and replace with the correct Audi stuff.
I'll tell the mechanic about it. I might call a mobile mechanic as probably not a wise idea even trying to drive it to a garage. I'd try changing it myself, but I haven't even got a proper driveway unfortunately. Thanks.
 
Had the same noise and problem a few weeks ago!clutch was shot.New clutch and slave cylinder £525
 
Prices really have altered a lot recently. As usual make a list of everything you want and preferred manufacturer then search for the best deals. Make sure whoever you plan to replace the clutch is happy with you supplying the parts before you go ahead.
 
Prices really have altered a lot recently. As usual make a list of everything you want and preferred manufacturer then search for the best deals. Make sure whoever you plan to replace the clutch is happy with you supplying the parts before you go ahead.
I'll gotta call a mobile mechanic so they probably gonna alright. I assume I need the whole clutch kit as well, any suggestion where they supply the correct for ones? Thanks
 
Had the same noise and problem a few weeks ago!clutch was shot.New clutch and slave cylinder £525
I'm already preparing for that cost, not gonna be great for sure.
Did you buy the slave cylinder separate to it came do the clutch kit? Cheers
 
Slave cylinder is external so can be changed just as easy with gearbox fitted, Gina on youtube did and excellent vid as did jason (tyred format) but jasons was the nitty gritty on your back style which is a royal PITA!

Dont get a cheap clutch they are known to rattle
 
So, I've been asking around asking for quotes for a clutch kit change from mobile-mechanics and the responses aren't great.

I got someone actually saying he "would not change clutch on that car", some didn't seem interested, so far 1 person gave me a quote for £495+vat = £600, plus with the clutch kit would be around £750. That sounds a bit too much for me.
I'm still trying, but unfortunately the responses aren't great for now.
 
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The ''problem'' is that you need to take apart the transmission from the engine. And since A2s are quite rare, mechanics do not like to take such a job, especially if they have other less ''tricky'' jobs in pipeline.
Your only hope is an A2 specialist that has done these many times. He will know exactly what to do and will not calculate a lot of overhead.
PS: Maybe mention that the engine and transmission are the SAME as in VW Polo, Skoda Fabia, Seat Ibiza of that year. This would take out the overhead for these two parts.
PS2: You can also come to Slovenia (yea, I know, the car is a non driver :(), I have a good mechanic, that would probably charge you between 200-250 EUR ;).
 
The ''problem'' is that you need to take apart the transmission from the engine. And since A2s are quite rare, mechanics do not like to take such a job, especially if they have other less ''tricky'' jobs in pipeline.
Your only hope is an A2 specialist that has done these many times. He will know exactly what to do and will not calculate a lot of overhead.
PS: Maybe mention that the engine and transmission are the SAME as in VW Polo, Skoda Fabia, Seat Ibiza of that year. This would take out the overhead for these two parts.
PS2: You can also come to Slovenia (yea, I know, the car is a non driver :(), I have a good mechanic, that would probably charge you between 200-250 EUR ;).
I've been mentioning that it's the same as vw polo, still not much better.
Yes that's tad far, cheers anyway lol.
 
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