Completely locked out of A2

How many times have you tried the fob buttons...……...Im sure if you do it over a certain no of times it losses synch with the ccu.
On some A2's later cars I believe if you turn the key in the lock and press the open section of the fob the windows open....worth a try
 

Edwrai

Member
The easiest way I could think of getting in would be to pop the rear boot release button/switch out and then put 12v though the pins that active the boot latch.


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audifan

A2OC Donor
Get a can of WD40 and spray half of it in through the key slot in the drivers door. Go have a cuppa ,when you return try the key in the lock a few times each direction slowly but do not try to open the door, remove the key and spray in the rest of the WD40, after about 10 minutes try the key quickly a few times in each direction. Leave alone for another 10 minutes. ONLY NOW try to unlock the door making sure that you are at full travel with the key and hold it there while trying to open the door. If the lock has seldom / never been used there is a good chance the grime has built up inside it and it is not going full travel. I have had success using this method before. Once in fully charge or replace your battery, replace the batteries in the key fobs and resynch them to the car and reset the electric windows where fitted.
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
Turning the key 90 degrees clockwise in the driver's door barrel should mechanically unlock the door. If the key is turning a full 90 degrees and nothing is happening, then it's highly likely that the lock has been removed previously and not put back again properly.
The door lock barrel connects to the locking mechanism via a flexible shaft. When removing the locking mechanism, the flexible shaft, which remains attached to the lock barrel, moves out of position. When reinstalling the lock in the door, care and attention is needed to ensure that the flexible shaft from the barrel mates correctly with the door lock mechanism. Unfortunately, this is not infrequently overlooked.
I've removed countless driver's door locks for fellow club members in order to fix the common microswitch circuit fault. Most of the time, I find that I'm the first person to dismantle the door since it was built at factory. However, on occasions, it's clear that the door lock mechanism has been removed previously, and I find that the flexible shaft that connects the barrel to the lock mechanism is just hanging in free space. Unfortunately, I fear this is what's happened here. The driver's door lock barrel is the only fail-safe way to unlock the car should the battery die.

my mrs said she spotted somewhere on a forum that you could energise the power windows from somewhere under the car and then wire through door shut to press window button
Unfortunately, even if your wife remembers correctly what she read, it's a nonsense. The electric windows are not just a simpe analogue circuit with a switch and a motor, but are instead controlled via digital commands. There is no way of energising the windows from beneath the car, and even if you could, pressing the switch would do nothing; the car knows to ignore the signal from the electric window switches when the ignition isn't on.

I managed to get a loop round the internal handle but even pulling inner handle to full extent the door stayed locked
You did well to be able to pull the handle remotely, but unfortunately that was never going to work because the car is 'deadlocked'. If the interior handles continued to work with the car locked, thieves would simply break the window, reach into the car and open it. As such, when the car is locked, the interior handles become mechanically disconnected.

Does the passenger side latch assy have a slot for where a lock barrel would go?
No, unfortunately not. The driver's door lock mechanism is unique, as it's the only one to feature a mechanical connection to an exterior barrel. The other three door locks are of a slightly simpler design.

The easiest way I could think of getting in would be to pop the rear boot release button/switch out and then put 12v though the pins that active the boot latch.
Unfortunately, the boot latch is driven by the CCCU, not by the button. The button sends an 'open boot' request to the CCCU. If the car is locked, the CCCU ignores the request. If the car is unlocked, the CCCU drives the boot latch actuator. So, you'd have to access the wires that go from the CCCU to the boot latch actuator, and I see no way of doing that through a hole above the number plate.

Warrington
I'm in Lancaster, so a little way up the M6, but not that far away in the grand scheme of things. I know the A2's electrics and central locking systems like the back of my hand. If you'd like me to visit and see what I can do, the offer is there. I also have plenty of original A2 glass panels, so can do the necessary repairs should we find that breaking a window is the only option.

Cheers,

Tom
 

Clackers

Member
My opinion (for what it is worth) is to cover the drivers window with lashings of duck tape, then break it, but only once you have got a spare in your hand...you can spend hours faffing around, or put that time to good use replacing the window, you will definitely be in the car that way...Timmus is your man if you want to exhaust every other avenue, but I feel you will be in the same group as a lot of other people in resorting to the window breaking option...sorry!
 

Zacharias

Member
I have seen People in YouTube that attach a layer of packning tape/ duct tape om the upper half of a side window om diferent cars and Keep a loose end of each tape and the pulls down the window by hanging in the tape ( I Guess forcing the mecanism to reverse) I dont know if this would work om an A2?
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
I have seen People in YouTube that attach a layer of packning tape/ duct tape om the upper half of a side window om diferent cars and Keep a loose end of each tape and the pulls down the window by hanging in the tape ( I Guess forcing the mecanism to reverse) I dont know if this would work om an A2?
The A2's electric windows are operated by a worm drive, which cannot be driven backwards. However, this technique may work on the rear windows if they are manual rather than electric.

Cheers,

Tom
 

Clackers

Member
The A2's electric windows are operated by a worm drive, which cannot be driven backwards. However, this technique may work on the rear windows if they are manual rather than electric.

Cheers,

Tom
Beat me to it, was just about to say the same Tom...worth a cheap try....
 

TAABVW

Member
I thought drilling a hole behind the number plate in the right place and grabbing the manual release wire with some pliers would work as this is purely mechanical. I happen to have my boot lid in bits at the moment so I just went out to have a look. Unfortunately you would be drilling through the plastic outer skin and an ali inner skin. The hole would have to be at least 40mm diameter to get a pair of pliers in to grab the cable. There is also a second ali skin in most areas so all in all I think it would be easier to replace a window.
 

thejohn

Member
In the old days when car body tolerances wasn't so tight we used to wedge out the door frame get a long length of copper brake pipe put a loop of heavy sea fishing line through the brake pipe and then snare the mechanical window winder and pull tight and then push and pull the winder handle round. When you have a sufficient gap push down on the window top to aid the winding down. squeeze through the open window and then after pulling the emergency tailgate release you may be able to power up the battery to enable unlocking with the key.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
If all other options fail and I had to break a window I wonder if the rear offside is the best to break. I was thinking it would be possible to reach in and pull the boot release cord, but I have just tried it and infuriatingly it is just out of finger tip reach but should be easy to hook loose with a single slotted screwdriver. I would only choose this route if the emergency boot release was known to function. With the boot open, recharge battery and easier to wriggle through to front to resync fob rather than squeezing through a front window!

Just floating an idea.

Andy
 
Break the front drivers one if you can get a spare to hand....the logic is if the lock is b****red or disconnected you're going to have to take it to pieces to repair( so this won't happen again!!) it'll save taking two doors to bits.
Power the car from the starter motor terminal and after you've broken the window put key in ign and resync by turning on ign (no need to start) and pressing lock and unlock buttons as per usuall………...hopefully this will save you some work
Id put plenty of tape on the glass before breaking the window (two or three layers) use a centre punch near a corner don't hit in the middle as it takes more effort, the tape will save lots of clearing up.
Good luck.
 

Edwrai

Member
If all other options fail and I had to break a window I wonder if the rear offside is the best to break. I was thinking it would be possible to reach in and pull the boot release cord, but I have just tried it and infuriatingly it is just out of finger tip reach but should be easy to hook loose with a single slotted screwdriver. I would only choose this route if the emergency boot release was known to function. With the boot open, recharge battery and easier to wriggle through to front to resync fob rather than squeezing through a front window!

Just floating an idea.

Andy
Can’t you just open the door once you have broken the windows isn’t it 2 pulls on the handle


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steveb

A2OC Donor
If you break the drivers window you could recline the drivers seat and get in the back to the cable release for the boot and then get to the battery
 

Rollinthunda

New Member
Ok firstly thank you Tom that’s an amazing offer. Firstly I think I fancy trying the copper pipe and fishing wire idea as the rear windows are manual sounds like a plan. Will re post when I’ve had chance to have a go. Thanks.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Have you sprayed the lock with WD40? Call a recovery company they should get you in without breaking glass.
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
Can’t you just open the door once you have broken the windows isn’t it 2 pulls on the handle
No, because the doors are deadlocked. From my reply above...
You did well to be able to pull the handle remotely, but unfortunately that was never going to work because the car is 'deadlocked'. If the interior handles continued to work with the car locked, thieves would simply break the window, reach into the car and open it. As such, when the car is locked, the interior handles become mechanically disconnected.
When we lock the doors whilst inside the car, using the rocker switch on the driver's door for instance, the doors are locked from the outside, but can be opened with two pulls of the interior handle. The first pull unlocks the door, and the second pull opens the door. However, when we lock the doors from the outside, using the key fob for instance, the doors are deadlocked, which is a 'deeper level' of locking. The interior handles no longer work.

Ok firstly thank you Tom that’s an amazing offer.
You're welcome. See what you can do with the rear windows. If you conclude that breaking a window is the only option, let me know and I'll pop down to Warrington with spare glass. We can then do the repair there and then.

Cheers,

Tom

PS: My first A2OC post of 2020. Happy New Year, all. :)
 
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