I have the plug and wiring that connects to the main light switch ... I want to remove and then re-insert the ~ 2mm wide crimp terminals from the plug. How do I do that, please? I have a range of micro-tools (tweezers, spatulas, probes, etc.) Does the crimp terminal/attached wire come out forward of the plug or out through the back? I am having difficulty figuring out removal, so I'd be grateful for your help ....
crimp terminals-removal from plug?
- Thread starter DJ 190
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timmus
A2OC Donor
Hi David,
You need a set of terminal extraction tools, specifically this set: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=524&item=3774
I bought this set as a means of swapping pins about at the CCU and B-pillars when fitting rear electric windows. They're fantastic tools and I, quite literally, could not have done the job without them. Whilst the kit is advertised as being 'universal', it contains all the tools you need to get electrical contacts in and out of VAG connectors. The full set is about £60, though, so you definitely have to think of it as an investment.
This is off-topic, but may I just say how much easier it is to read and comprehend your posts when you don't use CAPITALS, bold, underlined, etc. It really is so much nicer!
Cheers,
Tom
You need a set of terminal extraction tools, specifically this set: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=524&item=3774
I bought this set as a means of swapping pins about at the CCU and B-pillars when fitting rear electric windows. They're fantastic tools and I, quite literally, could not have done the job without them. Whilst the kit is advertised as being 'universal', it contains all the tools you need to get electrical contacts in and out of VAG connectors. The full set is about £60, though, so you definitely have to think of it as an investment.
This is off-topic, but may I just say how much easier it is to read and comprehend your posts when you don't use CAPITALS, bold, underlined, etc. It really is so much nicer!
Cheers,
Tom
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Hi Tom,
I am a bit suprised about your comment regarding the use of bold, CAPITALS and underlining ! I would have thought that it helps to emphasise points, this way? Oh well, I'll give PLAIN text a go, for a while! LOL! Now, I cannot really justify £60 for what just might be a one-off use! I was hoping to do this job by ingenuity and making use of what I have .... I could even fabricate a tool/gadget to do the job? I wonder if you might give me some pointers as to how the crimped terminal releases and its direction of removal? I thought that I could find another surplus plug and destroy it, just to find out how those terminals are retained? Examining the plug at the moment does give me some ideas, but I am still a bit unsure .... Thanks, Tom
I am a bit suprised about your comment regarding the use of bold, CAPITALS and underlining ! I would have thought that it helps to emphasise points, this way? Oh well, I'll give PLAIN text a go, for a while! LOL! Now, I cannot really justify £60 for what just might be a one-off use! I was hoping to do this job by ingenuity and making use of what I have .... I could even fabricate a tool/gadget to do the job? I wonder if you might give me some pointers as to how the crimped terminal releases and its direction of removal? I thought that I could find another surplus plug and destroy it, just to find out how those terminals are retained? Examining the plug at the moment does give me some ideas, but I am still a bit unsure .... Thanks, Tom
timmus
A2OC Donor
I know that has been your intention, but as literate adults, we're all able to hear the emphasis based on plain writing. Personally, I find the constant chaning of text size and font thickness really distracting, but others may feel differently.
Anyway...
Can you take a decent image of the connector block, in sharp focus? Based on my experience with getting the pins out of their connectors, I may be able to see which tool is appropriate, how the pins latch to the connector, etc. I can then photograph the tool such that you can craft something similar. I have an SLR with a macro lens, but if your digicam is of the 'point-and-shoot' variety, it might prove difficult... but it's worth a go!
Cheers,
Tom
hotstuff
A2OC Donor
Just to add to what Tom has mentioned. In reality, the only way to remove the terminal pins from any block connector is to use the correct tool, although that also sometimes is trial and error until you are familiar with all, (and there are many) the different pins. Before trying to remove the pins however, please note that most blocks have securing clips to prevent the pins from beng forced out during the coupling process and also act as strain relief when disconnecting the plugs. These clips are mostly of a different colour to the main connector colour.
blue skies
tony
blue skies
tony
timmus
A2OC Donor
What Tony says is true. When I first had all the tools, it took me a while to figure out which tool was likely to do the job for a certain connector. Some of them have to be 'attacked' from the wire-side, others are released from the pin-side. Some have a double latch, meaning two things have to be pressed simultaneously for the pin to be released, etc, etc...
The strain-relief clips also have to be removed, of course. At the B-pillars, they're purple!
I don't mind having spent £60 on the set as, even though they've only done one job for me so far, I'll use them again when retro-fitting Bose, heated seats, etc. It's all in the pipe-line!
Tom
The strain-relief clips also have to be removed, of course. At the B-pillars, they're purple!
I don't mind having spent £60 on the set as, even though they've only done one job for me so far, I'll use them again when retro-fitting Bose, heated seats, etc. It's all in the pipe-line!
Tom
Done it! .... thanks for your advice! I simply made an extraction tool by filing a nail (soft material) to give a suitable profile. This then depressed the lower "tongue" on the crimped connector. The higher tongue is released by prising up the plastic gate which is part of the plug itself. I have re-inserted the wire/connector into the lighting plug on my current A2 and have verified that I do, in fact, have the appropriate feed for day-running lights. This is where I am at the moment .... I now need to get that wire through to the engine bay and then to the front of the car! Can I find a suitable hole or path to get the wire through? No! I have looked everywhere! Obviously, I am not going to remove the dash, just to get that wire through! So, here I am again, seeking your knowledge and help! I don't really want to go drilling a hole through, either! Where do I feed that wire through, please? Thanks.
hotstuff
A2OC Donor
Did something similar, does involve some stripping though.
Remove the front footwell carpets. You will notice around midway on the wheel arch a single black cable that passes through a grommet to the outside - this is the cable that feeds to the wheel speed sensor. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY (so not to burn) pass your wire alongside this cable into the wheel well. You will need to remove the wheel well cover to access and now route your new feed. This does mean wheel off and axle stands.
Long, dirty, but it works as long as you're carefull.
blue skies
tony
Remove the front footwell carpets. You will notice around midway on the wheel arch a single black cable that passes through a grommet to the outside - this is the cable that feeds to the wheel speed sensor. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY (so not to burn) pass your wire alongside this cable into the wheel well. You will need to remove the wheel well cover to access and now route your new feed. This does mean wheel off and axle stands.
Long, dirty, but it works as long as you're carefull.
blue skies
tony
bretti_kivi
Member
the other way is to go through the hole where the wiper cables are, which, though at the top of the dash, is actually accessible without further ado.
- Bret
- Bret
Well, thanks, but I just didn't find any accessible route into the engine compartment? Bret, you say ... " at the top of the dash, is actually accessible without further ado." Is that behind the dash? Level with what part of the dash? From inside the engine compartment, i couldn't see any wiring emerging at that height/position? I wonder if you could give me further details, please? Oh, and your help in locating the very pin on the light switch for DRL's was spot-on! (pin no.3) Luckily I had a spare plug/wiring and was able to extract a complete terminal/wiring to do this job .... Thanks! You have SO much knowledge! O.K., here's a tester of that knowledge! I know of an instrument display module that has DIS. It is the correct year as my car, but the part number ends in just an "x". The correct part number for my chassis number should end with "jx".Is there any way that the unit ending in "x" could be re-programmed, or be made to function in my A2? Thanks, Bret .... and , of course, you, Tony!
Yes, Tom ...... That was exactly what I saw! I tried to force a long spike through the grommet surrounding the cable ... although it penetrated about 60-70mm, I couldn't see the point at the other side! I concluded that there must be an immense amount of sound-deadening at that location (plus a very long sleeve to the rubber surround, through which the cable passes). There is also a small hydraulic reservoir preventing easy access ( you can't get your fingers to the possible exit point of the cable) Thanks for offering your idea to me, though, Tom .... I can always rely on you for your input .... and it is much appreciated! I'm hoping for more information from Bret ..... another really helpful Guy!
bretti_kivi
Member
the service flap release cable is where mine are. They arrive into the engine bay behind the wheel arch trims, which is why I wasn't going to suggest them (they're a 100% pain to get out and put back).
- Bret
- Bret
I still haven't found a suitable route to get my feed-wire through into the engine compartment, for my DRL's .... Fully removing the carpet from the Drivers side seems to be particularly involved and difficult. However, folding it partly back did not reveal the wire passing through the wheel-arch, and going to the speed-sensor, as indicated by "Hotstuff" ? It isn't on the passenger side, is it? I am tempted to just drill an access hole directly through to the engine compartment ... but where? I wonder if any member can help me further, please?
hotstuff
A2OC Donor
OK, David and others.
Pics as promised on how to get access to the engine compartment from within the cabin.
Exit is easyest from the left front footwell. The interior carpet and the glove box must be removed and the sound deadening pulled away carefully.
From the right side, the lower dash panel must be removed.
The front wheel and wheel arch liner must be removed as well.
The cable you see shown by a orange arrow is the loom to the side repeaters, same on both sides.
The yellow arrow is for the bonnet release cable on the R/F and a spare grommet on the L/F.
The interior pics show the cable exit on the LF. The pic with the orage oval (pedal cluster and steering support) shows the exit of the bonnet release cable.
Make sure there is adequate insulation on all cables you pull, pull gently to avoid burns and route in engine bay away from moving components and sharpedges.
Hope this helps.
Pics courtesy of the broken TDi on my drive.
blue skies
tony
Pics as promised on how to get access to the engine compartment from within the cabin.
Exit is easyest from the left front footwell. The interior carpet and the glove box must be removed and the sound deadening pulled away carefully.
From the right side, the lower dash panel must be removed.
The front wheel and wheel arch liner must be removed as well.
The cable you see shown by a orange arrow is the loom to the side repeaters, same on both sides.
The yellow arrow is for the bonnet release cable on the R/F and a spare grommet on the L/F.
The interior pics show the cable exit on the LF. The pic with the orage oval (pedal cluster and steering support) shows the exit of the bonnet release cable.
Make sure there is adequate insulation on all cables you pull, pull gently to avoid burns and route in engine bay away from moving components and sharpedges.
Hope this helps.
Pics courtesy of the broken TDi on my drive.
blue skies
tony
Attachments
O.K., thanks for your help, Tony .... So I get the (insulated) wire into the wheel arch on the L.H.S., as shown in your pics. That seems straightforward ... Then, having got the wire into that area, I then need to get it through into the engine bay ... will that access point/hole to do this be obvious to me, too? Just asking, because if I've got the wheel-arch liner off, it is nice to be prepared!