Deep scratch fix?

Ridge

Ridge

New Member
Finland
Besides electric issues, the reason I got the A2 for cheap is a deep scratch on the driver side door. It's a shame because the paint seems to be in mint condition otherwise.

Seems kind of hard to repair, don't you think? If this was steel, it would have probably made a dent which you could fix with a plunger. But the alumimum has got a deep scratch which probably can't be put to original shape.

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PlasticMac said:
Is it possible to have the national flag appended below user name, if country is stated? The TT forum does this.
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There's no setting that I'm aware of. I suspect the forum software wouldn't support it, the location field in the user profile is completely free-form, no drop-down to identify a country etc.
 
Not being controversial here but there are several things anyone responding to a post should do.

Check their location (OP)
Is the car LHD or RHD
Engine type and model
Read all previous answers on the thread before commenting to avoid duplication or areas that have already been covered.

Conversely the poster has a "duty" to ensure their location is not vague or plain stupid.. So UK and looking at the computer are not valid locations. Their profile should be as accurate as possible so "don't own an A2" is useless when asking questions - except when purchasing a car. Helpful information like LHD, tdi 90, BHC, BBY etc would make things obvious. Also so much more useful information can be provided by a relevant scan result.

WE all give information freely but there has to be some common sense to avoid having to guess the problem or go down a route that would be impractical.

So people check YOUR OWN profile and amend as needed.

None of this is meant as offensive and is for the benefit of everyone in the club.

Take care all and Happy New Year when it very shortly arrives.

Graham.
 
Heh, yeah international shipping would cost quite much for a door. Plus might be a problem that the left side door doesn't all the buttons that the driver should have. :)

Sadly I don't think Finland has a lot of used A2 body parts. It's getting pretty rare. There's just four A2s for sale in the country right now.

Paint jobs have got a lot more expensive due to inflation as well. My Audi A4 b7 has some rust so I asked how much would it cost to paint the small front arch parts for both sides. 750 € = £ 660.
 
At those prices drive the car over here and get a replacement door. The doors themselves are the same but the electrics from your drivers door would have to be fitted into a replacement UK passenger front door. You would also have to fit the door key barrel into the door as UK cars do not have a key in the left front door.
 
How hard is it to change the drivers door? Ie is it easy to dismantle the old door to switch over the locks? Or is it easier to swap over the ignition barrel rather than the lock?
 
Justin M said:
How hard is it to change the drivers door? Ie is it easy to dismantle the old door to switch over the locks? Or is it easier to swap over the ignition barrel rather than the lock?
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Morning Justin,

As Steve rightly pointed out further up the conversation, about a 20 minute job. As this might well be the first time you’ve done this though please set aside an hour.

Swapping the door lock barrel is also easy enough but again set aside an hour or 2. I had to do this very early on in A2 ownsership and found all the information available within the how To sections.

Research is of course vital and will see the task completed well within the generous timeline I suggest.

Things to ensure you have before taking on the work is to have a quality set of Spline and Torx bits. Also understanding how the door electrical connectors are removed and correctly reconnected will help.

If you get stuck or not keen on proceeding alone then I’m sure someone will be more than willing to assist you once you obtain a suitable replacement door. If you was closer then I’d probably suggest a door swap for you could be FOC but geography plays it’s part.

Have a read through the how to section to build your knowledge on the task ahead, where you feel there is a gap just ask away. I’m certain that this fine community can provide you with the answers and confidence to do this yourself, one of the brilliant attributes of this Forum.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks Tom. Great advice as always. Now that the interior of the fsi is mostly sorted, I’m going to tackle the poor paint and panels. Ive done a bit of research and changing the locks looked a bit of a faff. So wondered if changing the ignition would be easier. But if it’s straightforward I’ll just change the door lock over. More research needed :)

I Need to replace the bonnet and all doors and rear bumper. (And visit Ian for the oss) I’ll be hanging round the marketplace waiting to pounce. :)
 
The drivers door lock barrel can be removed without stripping the door down. There's a small hex screw hidden behind a plastic bung on the door. The door barrel opens the lock on the drivers door with a key by turning a little plastic and metal rod that goes into the side of the door lock mechanism. If you are lucky you can remove the barrel out of the door and slot the replacement in without losing that link.

To be honest though, i'd just take the frame off the door and make sure that the link to the barrel is properly connected because if your battery ever dies, that's the only way you are getting into the car. Stripping down the door frame really isn't difficult, removing the door lock mechanism is a bit more of a faff, but in your case you don't need to remove it in order to change the lock barrel which is all you'll be trying to achieve.
 
A2Steve said:
The drivers door lock barrel can be removed without stripping the door down. There's a small hex screw hidden behind a plastic bung on the door. The door barrel opens the lock on the drivers door with a key by turning a little plastic and metal rod that goes into the side of the door lock mechanism. If you are lucky you can remove the barrel out of the door and slot the replacement in without losing that link.

To be honest though, i'd just take the frame off the door and make sure that the link to the barrel is properly connected because if your battery ever dies, that's the only way you are getting into the car. Stripping down the door frame really isn't difficult, removing the door lock mechanism is a bit more of a faff, but in your case you don't need to remove it in order to change the lock barrel which is all you'll be trying to achieve.
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Thanks Steve. Very useful info. Let me know next time you get a Mauritius blue breaker in with good panels and I’ll make the trip to pick them up. Assuming I’ll get all in the back of the a2 with the rear seat out……..
 
Justin M said:
Assuming I’ll get all in the back of the a2 with the rear seat out……..
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I think my record for panels was three doors and a rear bumper along with a rear arch and some interior panels. The front doors occupy the full width of the inside when laid flat, the rears are smaller. The bonnet is a lot larger than you think! There's some scope for laying the doors on the flat edge and leaning them to the side, which might help if you can pack it all so that it can't move when cornering. But in any case take plenty of old pillows, carpets or whatever to keep panels from scratching each other, especially if the rear doors are for manual windows, as the winder shaft sticks out a long way.
 
Justin M said:
Thanks Steve. Very useful info. Let me know next time you get a Mauritius blue breaker in with good panels and I’ll make the trip to pick them up. Assuming I’ll get all in the back of the a2 with the rear seat out……..
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I've got a mauritius blue breaker arriving on 9th.
 
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