Definitive HID upgrade

btw, what is the difference in the slim ballast and normal ballast on HID kits?

apart from being in a slimmer housing, although then you get the power pack outside of the unit - does this make it more hassle to secure within the engine bay?

Are they updated within or just the same as standard allbeit the external casing??? :confused:
 
@Maersk - can you provide the actual link to that page on the DfT website, and date of publication please? I'd like to read it for myself at source.
 
Bonus

...checked my levelling system once got out of work. :eek:

I have 4 options not the 2, turned the dial and another 2 settings appeared. :D

Feel a little bit silly now :eek: :cool:

Does anyone know if there are any differences between the slim ballast and the regular other than the obvious size diff :confused:
 
btw, what is the difference in the slim ballast and normal ballast on HID kits?

apart from being in a slimmer housing, although then you get the power pack outside of the unit - does this make it more hassle to secure within the engine bay?

Are they updated within or just the same as standard allbeit the external casing??? :confused:

Main difference is the 'starter' is no longer housed within the ballast but has been integrated into the wiring loom - as shown in the attached link - http://www.hids4u.co.uk/product.php?productid=165&cat=16&page=1

Cheers Spike
 
Thanks Spike, so what does this actually achieve?

ok, so the ballast is slimmer to fit in tighter/smaller places, but what with the starter motor - do you just leave it suspended in mid air between the ballast and the HID bulb?

The electronic stuff inside the 2 types are the same then, just placed in different places and units?
 
The constituent parts of an HID lighting system are as follows:

electric supply (obvious, but I'll include it for completeness sake)
ballast (the big box of tricks)
ignitor (sometimes called the starter, this is a little box of tricks)
light emitter (called a burner, tube, bulb etc)
light focusser (either a reflector or a projector system)

What happens roughly is this:

You turn the lights on and send 12volts to the ballast which in turn sends a signal to the ignitor. The ignitor constantly monitors the state of the light emitter itself and knows if it is lit or not. The 'bulb' doesn't work like a conventional bulb (which heats a thin wire to white hot so creating light) but it creates a spark (an arc) between 2 electrodes in a tiny bubble which contains a few grains of metallic elements. The arc vapourises these grains and the resultant gas glows a particular colour.

Now then, to get the arc started needs a lot of voltage, around 23000 volts to be precise and the ignitor is what provides this, by stepping up the 12 volts from the ballast. When the arc is established, there is far less of a need for high voltages, so it eases back (which is why the whine you hear at start-up gradually fades).

The last part of the equation is the way that light is collected and thrown forwards onto the road:

In a reflector system (like the A2 uses), the light source (white hot filament in halogen systems) has to sit precisely at the correct point in space so that the reflectors can focus it in the correct way to give an acceptable beam pattern - basically, it is a glorified torch (indeed, some of the larger multi-million candle power ones on sale now actually use car headlights).

The projector system still has a reflector behind the bulb, but it is a simple parabolic mirror (smooth with no lines or angles that you can see on the A2s headlight reflector), which is very efficient and it basically throws all the light forwards in parallel lines.

In front of this is a large circular blob of glass which smoothes the light output and makes it go in the right direction (it also inverts the beam if you must know!) and in between the glass and the bulb is a shaped piece of metal which gives the sharp cut-off pattern that these projector systems are known for. In some cars, you can actually just press a button and this will alter the metal shield to allow dor driving on the continent - very useful!

Also, the metal shield can sometimes be flipped down out of the path of the light using a little solenoid device. This opens up the full beam of light for, er, full beam and cars using this system are said to have bi-xenon lights (both hi- and lo-beam are xenon).

I know that this is probably overkill and will be useless to most people, but it serves to show the complexity of modern lighting systems and the tolerances that are needed to give good light patterns (just a tenth of a millimeter in the position of the arc or filament will throw a beam well off!).

I answer to your question Deseli, the slim ballasts are pretty much irrelevant as you can't get spares for either ballast or ignitor if they fail, so just get a decent quality (E-marked) kit from a reputable UK dealer.

One last point:

I mentioned before that the little grains of metallic elements are vapourised and produce light. The make up of the gas can thus be controlled very finely, resulting in light of very controlled colour, hence 4100k, 5000k, 6000k etc (the standard factory fit xenon tubes are 4100k and the higher the number, the bluer the light. In general, don't go beyond 6000k, or you'll be likely to get pulled).

The whiteness or blueness of the light in reflector based systems will be uniform, so you won't get that characteristic white-to-blue and back shimmering of a projector system - this is caused by a combination of the metal shield and chromatic abberations in the glass lens.

Also, most kits use standard factory xenon bulbs wgich are re-manufactured to make the arc sit in the righ position and are re-based to fit in the standard bulb socket. Most of the kits use bulbs intended for use in projector systems, but there are kits coming along now that use xenon tubes intended for reflector systems, so called D2R (the standard ones are called D2S). These have a small blackout pattern painted onto the surface of the tube in heat resistant black paint and they are designed to stop unwanted reflections which will be caused by the lack of a support wire for the filament, which casts a small shadow in normal reflector systems.

In summary, if you are going to fit a xenon kit to an A2, go for a decent priced kit (preferably one recommended by others), keep it white, not blue, get it from a reputable dealer and fitted by someone who knows what they're doing (maybe yours truly!) and if possible, get a kit designed for reflector systems (a so called H7R bulb).

Right, lecture over!

Cheers,

Mike
 
Cheers Mike,

I had made up my mind on the H7R bulb either at 4500/5000k. The availability options for the slim line and regular ballast on hids4U threw me and didn't know enough to make an informed choice.

The reason I am going to go with Hids4U rather than the Autobulbs (i think it was) is purely because of the differing bulb options they have, plus apparently they both come from the same shipping address anyhow.

Mind made up now :)

Was going to try and self fit but if I have any problems, or bottle out of attempting, will definately give you a shout. :D
 
Thanks Spike, I don't think this is a particularly hard mod to install (except for lining up the lights) I was looking in the engine bay at the weekend, and it seemed quite obvious where to mount the ballasts on this silver mount, or I was thinking tucked somehow next to the inside of the side panel. and the wiring isn't that hard to work out how to connect.

The hardest bit will probably be making a hole that is situated in the right place and drilling the hole as not a flat object.

Although taking a brief peek at the guide, on this kit from Vagcom, it came with a mounting bracket for the ballast. I haven't seen any of these shown or mentioned on the kits around.

Can you get them anywhere, otherwise maybe zip ties. :rolleyes:
 
Hi deseli
The latest ballasts usually have the mounting lugs built in so there is no need for additional brackets. The tricky bit is drilling the mounting holes accurately.
For centre popping the holes I used an old chainsaw file with the tang end ground to a point. Wear safety specs and go canny with the hammer though as files are very brittle. I also made an extended drill bit using a length of 10mm rod. This was drilled about 15mm deep in a lathe to take the correct size drill bit which was soft soldered in place. Other people have managed without these extra long tools but it certainly made life easier.

Cheers Spike
 
d4s ballasts

...well I finally took the plunge and bought a pair of 2nd hand Lexus d4s ballasts (these ballasts are pretty slim line and small) with bulbs and connectors, so should be pretty much just plug and play. Awaiting the H7 to d2s style adapters which will serve until brave enough to take the plunge and dismantle headlights so as to fit projectors :eek:

I should hopefully be a busy little bee this easter weekend as also have the carbon pollen filter to collect and fit and going to try the new a2oc craze and clay wash 'ube' - all in all - yah! :p
 
I'd be seriously careful in fitting the D4s bulbs into the A2 headlamp even with the baseplate adapter.

The adapter will only serve to make the shape of the base right for the H7 socket, but it won't make the centre of the arc sit at the right point and on D4s bulbs, they will NOT line up properly, giving you horrendous glare problems and most likely, a pull from the guys with the white hats!

Save this kit for when you have a projector installed and just get an H7r kit for now - it can either be sold on when ready or transferred to the fogs if you have them.

Cheers,

Mike
 
well, was looking at getting the philips d2r style hid bulbs just in case don't get round to fitting the projectors anytime soonish?!?

yes, was thinking of transferring to either the high beam or fogs possibly at a later date.

Cheers Mike, can tell I am probably going to bend your ear over backwards when I finally make it up to Skipton Autos :D :eek: :p :rolleyes:
 
You're getting into a world of pain there Mik - D2s/D2r bulbs won't work with a ballast designed for a D4s/D4r bulb as the steady state voltages are different!

Also, anything other than a correctly re-based bulb will make the arc sit at the wrong spot and give glare.

Just get a kit for the medium term, as fitting projectors will be a massive job - I know, I've been there!

Cheers,

Mike
 
...could anyone tell me what size female lucar connector I would need for the headlights so as to tap into the ballast as different from the audi connector that plugs into the H7 bulbs? (if that makes sense to anyone?) and also what type of ampage wire is required?

Cheers :eek:
 
Send some photos of what you have and I'll look into it.

I have a nasty feeling though that those connectors are very hard to come by.

Cheers,

Mike
 
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