DJ's adventures in A2 land

If you end up taking the climate control back out, the heated rear window is actually just that 2 pin plug with the white and red/black wire.


You can test the climate panel first, unplug that connector from the panel, put your meter in resistance mode/continuity mode, and measure between the two pins on the back of the climate panel where the connector was connected. With the heated window switch off, there should be no continuity/high resistance. If you switch the heater on, there should be continuity/a value very close to zero ohms. Leave all of the other plugs connected, as you’ll probably have to have to turn the ignition on/start the car for climatronic to close the contacts.

If that’s good, keep your meter on ohms. Put the black lead to any pin of any connector you can reach with a BROWN wire. Put the other lead on the pin connected to the red/black wire on the 2 pin connector (to be clear, you’re working with the wires on the car now, not on the climatronic panel). You should see a low number, but not 0.

The final test, meter on DC volts, black lead to a brown wire again. With the ignition on, put the red lead on the pin of the white wire, you should see 12 volts roughly.

Test 1 failed: Dead climatronic
Test 2 failed: Dead element or possibly aerial amplifier (not quite sure how they’re connected)
Test 3 failed: Blown fuse
 
dj_efk said:
I'm half tempted to buy the spare climate unit in the marketplace and try swapping it - but I'm not sure I could achieve the same price if it made no difference and hence had to be sold straight on....
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There's no need for that. Even if your existing climate control unit is faulty (which I'd consider unlikely, though not entirely outside the realms of possibility), a cheap basic unit with ruined buttons would do the trick. The circuitry for the climate control and HRW is entirely separate from the heated seat controllers, meaning your existing climate control unit (with heated seats, in mint condition) could be repaired by swapping internal circuitry.

I have dozens of standard climate panels, and can post one to you should you wish. However, some testing with a multimeter would be my first port of call.

Cheers,

Tom

PS: There's a backlog in my inboxes. I often try to clear it in batches; thanks for your patience.
 
timmus said:
There's no need for that. Even if your existing climate control unit is faulty (which I'd consider unlikely, though not entirely outside the realms of possibility), a cheap basic unit with ruined buttons would do the trick. The circuitry for the climate control and HRW is entirely separate from the heated seat controllers, meaning your existing climate control unit (with heated seats, in mint condition) could be repaired by swapping internal circuitry.

I have dozens of standard climate panels, and can post one to you should you wish. However, some testing with a multimeter would be my first port of call.

Cheers,

Tom

PS: There's a backlog in my inboxes. I often try to clear it in batches; thanks for your patience.
Click to expand...
It might be worth checking the HRW switch before delving much deeper.
Mac.
 
2work said:
Hi David,

Is it the climate control panel fascia you’re looking to remove from the main unit/chassis.

Kind regards.

Tom
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Tom it's simply to diagnose why - despite the light on the climate unit lighting when activated via the button - my heated rear window and mirrors do not work.

The advice given above in its entirety will form my plan of attack - especially that given by @a-zwo and @timmus (thank you!).

​

 
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