DJ's adventures in A2 land

I did this job yesterday and these seemed to work fine.
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Don't ask about the gold..... I did not fancy using the supplied rubber retainer rings and re-used the old top metal retainer and bottom metal retainer rings from other suppliers.

You will have to remove the ball joint from the hub of course.

Andy

These work but are made out of crap material as your very lucky to get two mot’s out of them before they crack and leak grease. They are all I’ve found so buy them in 12’s and change them when I spot they have cracked on the annual service. Only takes 10 mins a side when you have done it a few times


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Thanks for the input Paul - What's your knack for separating the joint quickly? Also I assume you fill them with grease to compensate for what has leaked / will leak out?
 
Thanks for the input Paul - What's your knack for separating the joint quickly? Also I assume you fill them with grease to compensate for what has leaked / will leak out?

Tap side of the housing with a hammer to shock the taper
Pack the gator with Molly grease

Paul


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This morning I started getting Audrey ready for her 20 year MOT later this week.

Started with a good pressure wash of all the muck from the arches and underside followed b a good wheel scrubbing by, followed by a thorough wash with the Turtlewax hybrid solutions ceramic wash and wax.

The result:

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This evening I’ll pull the car into the workshop and have a butchers at the front suspension and in particular the ball joint cover mentioned above.

EDIT: Just found time between work calls to whip the bonnet off and attend to one of those annoying, but not acute niggles that has been on the to-do list for a while - the clutch has for a while been a touch low on the biting point and felt sponge-ey. This has resulted in the occasional grinding of gears and simply wouldn’t do any longer.

A length of tube cut to length and plugged onto the slave cylinder’s 11mm nipple and depositing into a small cup perched on some under-bonnet hoses - plus a suitable length wooden stake to hold the clutch pedal down - allowed me to finally bleed the system. A satisfyingly large air bubble came out, then a further pump revealed just clean fluid. All nipped up and bonnet back on and the clutch biting point is back to where it should be, so job jobbed.

I tested the brake fluid for water content while I was there too and it came in at under 1%, so all good for another year.
 
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To finish the day's good fortune off, I just got the car in the workshop, whipped the wheels off (which by the way, is so much easier / more convenient now that I've removed the locking bolts and keep a spare hubcap puller in a little bag hanging on a nail by the door!) and had a jolly good look at all the front suspension, steering joint and driveshaft gaitors on both sides, not just the one on the driver's lower ball joint, which is the one my local garage had said had a nick in the boot despite it being fairly new.

Well, there were a few blobs of sticky greasy dirt on the boot which I cleaned off, but there certainly isn't anything amiss that I could see - So no further work needed. :cool:

Will update once the MOT is done.
 
Well, today is the day, as they say:

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@Proximo your jacking bungs were spotted and used without my prompting - I’d say you’ve created an A2 ownership essential for us all:
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It really is a nail-biting experience I find. A maladjusted headlamp was tweaked sideways (my fault after replacing the headlamp leveller motor - I always find setting up the aim perfectly a little difficult) - The chap also adjusted them both down; I didn’t have the bottle to ask him to leave them high so I can raise them on quiet dual carriageways a little using the leveller dial set to 0 (with setting 1 being normal operation), I can give them a slight tweak upwards myself though of course!

His comment during the test “this is in bl00dy good order, I’ll give you that!” - he did find that the Michelin CrossClimates that were until recently on the front had worn to the legal limit on their inner shoulders however, which he said on a summer tyre tread wouldn’t be a concern, but because of the tread pattern on these, the shoulders are included in the definition of “central 3/4 of the tread” according to the MOT manual. So it looks like my tracking is out by some margin and has been since the tyres were fitted- I assume they weren’t set correctly when checked then.

Other than the tyre advisories, it was a pass 😎
 
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Evening David,

Nice to see a tester try to protect the bonnet whilst it’s removed, or was that you’re doing Sir. I bet many A2 bonnets have been damaged at the testing station over the years.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Evening David,

Nice to see a tester try to protect the bonnet whilst it’s removed, or was that you’re doing Sir. I bet many A2 bonnets have been damaged at the testing station over the years.

Kind regards,

Tom
Well Spotted Sir, the tester was pretty thorough it seems. What do they need to check in the engine bay I wonder?
 
Yes he's good, he took it off and then looked around for somewhere to put it down, then purposely held it in one hand whilst fishing that carboard out of the bin to protect the paint from the hard floor.

I was pleased that he took similar precautions last year - and seems to test fairly. He's a one man band that owns the business so I'm happy to go to him. He only takes cash mind!

He seemed to be checking the brake reservoir and pipes around it, maybe he was also looking at the EGR valve too to check it was still there? I'm not sure, but he had a good look in the same places last year.
 
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It’s camping time! Yesterday the 140 odd miles from Devon to Bullith Wells in central Wales was despatched at a trip average of 68.5mpg including heavy M5 / M4 traffic.

One unexpected improvement can be attributed to the brakes - bleeding the clutch has eliminated the slightly spongey pedal feel, thanks the shared hydraulic system I suppose. This has made the brakes very sharp and far more confidence-inspiring compared to previously. Not sure how but I’m calling it a win! Thoughts of a 288mm brake upgrade are more easily pushed to one side, at least for now.

What’s odd is that the brakes have obviously never been fully bled, despite more than one garage having worked on both brake and clutch systems since I took over ownership - including a full fluid flush when I first got the car. I had no idea that such a small job would result in so much enhancement to the driving experience on twisty roads.
 
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It’s camping time! Yesterday the 140 odd miles from Devon to Bullith Wells in central Wales was despatched at a trip average of 68.5mpg including heavy M5 / M4 traffic.

One unexpected improvement can be attributed to the brakes - bleeding the clutch has eliminated the slightly spongey pedal feel, thanks the shared system and made the brakes very sharp compared to previously. Not sure how but I’m calling it a win!
68.5 average towing as well as loaded up or an empty car?! Wow surely you stayed between 60-65 to get that? I can just get 60mpg 62mog by using cruise at 65mph over 32 miles. I am mapped though
 
Not towing, just me with the car loaded up with camping gear in van mode- Mrs FK was driving the family bus (a Touran) with bike rack on the tow bar and roof box and all three FKlets.

That’s cruising at just over an indicated 65mph (1850/1900 RPM in top). My car is mapped too Ed so that’s right on the flat peak of the torque curve. It’s a huge contrast with the MPG figures I was getting at the beginning of ownership! Lots of small improvements from a combination of ensuring all mechanical components are functioning as they should, some choice upgrades and of course adapting my driving style.

Interestingly, I don’t believe the six speed really saves any fuel - if it does then it will only be a tiny amount. The decrease in engine noise however is very, very noticeable and makes the car very refined.

Either way - My top tip would be to ensure your thermostat is a genuine one and working correctly, then make sure your fuel system is clean via a diesel purge, then run it on the Millers diesel additive at the normal dose: Assuming your driving style isn’t lead-footed, you should see similar numbers.
 
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So in furthering my (not too) mild obsession with increased efficiency from the car, I've been looking into improving the turbo design next.

Audrey is on 172,xxx miles and is on the original turbo. I think most in the know would agree, it's time to think about a precautionary replacement. The KKK turbo used on the A2 TDi90 is unique to the model and very scarce, so in line with my policy of collecting rare spares to keep the car going when I can, when a brand new genuine unit popped up on eBay 18 months ago I snapped it up and it's been sat on my shelf since.

Now the thought of modifying it before fitting was prompted when an advert popped up recently for a modified turbo. I must thank Tom @timmus for this post in his excellent TDI120 modified engine thread for laying out the dynamics of how a turbo works and what can be done - even if he was referring to the TDI75 turbo as a base.

Investigatory conversations with the specialist I spoke to (Adam at Pioneering Performance near Bournemouth), were fruitful:

This little 3 cylinder motor turbocharger is not actually all that well supported in the aftermarket as the A2 is the only vehicle which uses that VNT turbo - other VAG cars like the 4 pot big brothers share a plethora of parts between them so the market is much broader, whereas this ATL motor is the only 3 cylinder one to wear that turbo.

As a result of this, there actually aren't all the parts we need to rebuild it or do a billet compressor wheel upgrade available. In the past, we have machined in a bigger compressor wheel but the supplier doesn't make one as a "drop in" for this particular application unfortunately. That being said - we could commission one using the OEM original in your turbo to send off and have optimised: You'd have the first and only one in the world with a drop-in billet compressor wheel. (Drop in meaning OEM size but optimised for performance).

The real world result of this would mean your turbo being about as peppy as it could ever be - the billet compressor wheels are made to help increase spool wherever possible. It wont be a hybrid and it wont be a rocket ship - it would still have the same size inducer and exducer, but it would spool better. We could also rebuild your unit with a strengthened 360° thrust bearing along with the new compressor wheel and this should see you good for many '000s of miles of happy motoring.


If that isn't for you, then the only other option would be to make a hybrid where we install, with machining to the compressor housing, a larger than stock compressor wheel. This is what I have done before on this turbo, but be aware that this little 3 cylinder motor isn't the most responsive and larger than stock turbos can take away some of the drivability even with a fairly modest increase in compressor wheel size over stock. If you weren't looking to get a new custom map put on the car then this isn't the better option, the first one is.

Finally, the performance upgrade which I have seen done a few times is taking the 4 cylinder 150hp turbo, deleting the 4th cylinder from the manifold and blocking it up, and using that as a 3 cylinder. This would be an interesting project, not one Ive done before but something Id like to have a play with if you wanted to go down that route. (That one would probably be done when seeking a lot more performance)


Now, in terms of current state of tune, Audrey is rolling road tuned to 117 BHP and already fitted with Tom's all-alloy intercooler, so that, along with Paul @depronman's lower turbo pipe bracket, eliminates the other weak spots in the ATL boost system, from a reliability point of view.

As my aims are enhanced longevity, efficiency and usability, whilst the last two paragraphs look very interesting, I'm not looking for an increase in max power and torque because I don't want to further stress components such as the clutch assembly - and the car is pretty quick already! Therefore, in the spirit of trying to eliminate mass production trade-offs and getting the exisiting design as good as possible to achieve my aims, I'm going with his first suggested route.

So, as the cost isn't TOO outrageous (and I have some bits and bobs from my old BMW days in particular I can sell to raise the funds), the turbo is on it's way for a makeover - Scope is to strip, supply and install the uprated thrust kit, one-off billet compressor wheel, then balance the whole assembly, re-assemble and flow set back to the OEM flow settings. I will then have the manifold heat coated with Zircotec or similar ceramic coating (if possible, given the combined nature of the manifold and turbo), to help reduce heat soak into the intake charge (I can see from CDIS that when the engine is working hard the charge temperature rises fairly dramatically at the moment). I am thinking of purchasing a good used inlet manifold to have treated in the same way at the same time - just as Tom did.

If anyone has further suggestions on how to further optimise the turbo, I'm all ears and can ask PP.

I appreciate there could be an increased risk of stressing the DMF in particular at low RPMs with a turbo that now spools quicker and at lower RPM than standard, however I have trained myself to keep the revs above 1550-1600 RPM before applying much throttle in all gears beyond 1st (and applying it progressively, rather than ramming my foot to the floor) anyway, so I am willing to take the risk. The gains may be fairly marginal, but I'm interested in both seeing how far I can go to get this little car to the peak of what's possible without harming usability; and also improving the fuel consumption over shorter journeys. Currently Audrey can easily top 70mpg on long runs but struggles to achieve much over 50mpg on shorter ones around the Blackdown Hills, where I live - I wonder whether this will help.

I would appreciate any thoughts.

In other news - I've been getting the occasional front suspension clonk again, so as one of the few easier-to-change components left in my mission to permanently eliminate this is the ARB bushes, I've managed to snag a pair of new genuine VW ones for £15 posted which will go on in due course ahead of the winter. I've already checked the springs for cracks and they're fine, so I am hoping the top mounts or struts are not worn - everything else will have been replaced! That said, I did get a twang just now when turning the steering wheel with the car barely rolling....
 
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A brief pre-work update on Audrey:

With 178k miles gone and hence approx. 7500 miles since the last service it's time to think about some maintenance and attending to a few jobs. These are:

  • An oil change and filter (of course!) plus checking of the air filter
  • Replacement of the failed no.1 glow plug with the genuine ATL-specific new one I snapped up on eBay for £11 delivered!
  • Replacing the driver's side headlamp bulb, which has popped
  • Fixing the dodgy headlamp alignment - ever since the MOT garage fiddled with it, it has not been right. Is there a how-to anywhere in terms of how to get this right first time? I'm aware of which adjuster does what.
  • Replacing the diesel fuel filter - which hasn't been done since I bought the car in 2020 at 135k miles - hopefully by careful priming of the new filter I can finally eliminate the unpleasant whining / resonance that seems to be coming from the filter housing that has been with me since then!
  • Thorough wash / detail with my new favourite range of products: Turtlewax Hybrid Solutions wash and wax - this leaves a ceramic coating that just seems to keep repelling water and dirt for months at a time, should circumstance dictate it has to be that long - LINK
  • A good vacuum and clean of the interior.

I'm going to see how difficult it might be to do the following too, while I'm feeling handy:

  • Test the climate control unit's heated rear window / electric mirror circuitry
  • Fit the adhesive foam to the centre vent unit while it's out, to eliminate "buzzing" in warmer weather.
  • Remove and replace the blank next to the ASR button, the soft touch of which has worn off. QUESTION: Is there a how-to anywhere?
  • Remove the trim around the rear view mirror - QUESTION: Is there a how-to anywhere? - and and check / replace the dash cam's power cable - which is currently not supplying power as it should. I feel slightly nervous about not having a working dashcam.

I've also just paid for the uprated turbo so will start thinking about replacing that, perhaps along with the lift pump at the same time, as a precaution. For those who are interested, this is the scope of work on the invoice:

Item description : Customer supplied new turbocharger

Upgraded: PD 3 cylinder 5303-970-0015 to drop in billet wheel.
VSR balanced and flow set to OEM standard.
Actuator set to 0.61bar vac on stop.
 
Nice list of doable jobs! One sorted car it shall be :cool:

The turbo work indicates you have fitted a lighter wheel for faster spooling just to take it to the next level of smoothness, that should be a dream as the 90 is already a delight. Dare I ask who did the turbo wheel work and rough costing?

Regarding:
  • Remove and replace the blank next to the ASR button, the soft touch of which has worn off. QUESTION: Is there a how-to anywhere?
I think you need to remove the side trim of the centre consol (gear knob surround off) and it clips form underneath? the wire to it is not that long so go easy.
 
Ed,

It was done by Adam Davidson who is a one-man band company called Pioneering Performance. The cost was a little over £300 in total which I thought was reasonable. And yes, it won't have more power, but the pick-up / spool-up should be quicker. The main advantage is the upgraded 360 degree bearing conversion however. that should make it indestructible with just basic care (oil changes)!

Thanks for that - So remove the gear knob, the boot etc. and it's all apparent from there? I've never removed the gear knob before so I assume it's held on via grub screw or similar?
 
David,
No need to remove the gear knob, just unclip the bottom of the leather boot by prising under the silver ring. The curved console floor just lifts out from the gear lever end. Then remove the driver's side kick panel. Remove the footrest retaining screw first (obscured by the clutch pedal, and a bit of a pain to relocate) and slide the footrest up its track out of the way. Then the panel unclips from the bottom, it might need a little force. The screws for the console side panel are then evident. Once undone, slide it forwards to remove. Easiest thing is to stick fingers or a thin screwdriver handle in from the bottom and push the ASR blank out from underneath. Seems like a lot of work for something that can be carefully removed in situ, but its locating lugs are often very brittle.
 
Well a couple of bits ticked off the list:

Oil and filter change done in record time - I only had 60 mins so after realising that in this cold weather the old oil takes an age to be extracted via the dipstick tube I jacked the car up at the front and drained the remaining couple of litres out of the sump plug without even taking the undertray off! A little messier but not too bad if you put the front of the car up high.

I tried to replace the duff glow plug but unlike the one with good access I changed previously on no.3 cylinder, the ones for no. 1 & 2 cannot be removed without a suitable deep, thin-walled 10mm socket - so that has to wait for now.

I noticed a lot of oil on the block around the lift pump so that will definitely be getting replaced with new gaskets when the turbo is done - it’s difficult to make out in these pics mind:

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Finally, a satisfyingly successful investigation: Ever since I changed the driver’s headlamp I’d been less than impressed with the performance of it - it seemed to be shining most of its light far too short on the ground in front of the car, instead of lighting the road ahead - yet when I adjusted it up, it then blinded other road users! The MOT tester had then put it right down again.

Well changing the popped dipped bulb on the passenger side prompted me to look again - careful examination of the lit bulb in the headlamp revealed it seemed to be sitting at a slight angle within the reflector. I recall another member - I forget who - said they thought it possible that their similar-sounding headlamp problems could be because the bulb is not sitting correctly in its holder - well after some jiggery pokery in getting the cover off the back and wiggling the bulb, I was rewarded with a loud “click” and the bulb was now sitting correctly in the reflector! A quick drive up the road with the bonnet off and a few goes with the 6mm hex key and I’m back to having great nighttime lighting once more. It’s been too long.

Now that I’ve used up my stock of H7 Philips RacingVision +200% halogen bulbs I will order a set of the Osram H7 LED bulbs that a few members whose opinions I deeply respect have piloted and report excellent results. Hopefully the extra cost is balanced by not needing to replace them every 12-18 months as I do currently!
 

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