door locks

Mr Angry

A2OC Donor
hi guys,

as you know i've been fixing a few problems with my car and it has now come to the next stage of my next issue, that being the drivers side and rear drivers side door locks! i'm about to follow the thread that member grim reaper has posted but my question is...

do i need to remove the window/frame in order to change the door lock? when/if i remove the door lock do i have access to the micro switch or is that a different procedure or is it all in one with the door locking mechanism?

this is the last problem that i have with this car and i'm hoping to get it sorted over the weekend so anyones advice is great!

cheers
 
hi cammy
yes window frame required out for front ones but not rear , once out microswitch for did and door shut is the one external to main unit held on with a clip usually that has high resistance and contacts require cleaning
 
Cammy,

I managed to extract the front lock assembly by just removing the bottom fixings for the window frame and tilting the bottom outwards. This just allows sufficient space to get the lock out.
Whilst it is out check the soldered joints on the connector, you will need to separate the electrical part from the lock itself and open this up, but it saves you having to do the job twice and it's a common failure point.

Steve
 
ive hit a snag guys :(

i cant seem to remove the door handle to get the door lock off. what am i doing wrong? i am at the part where it says.... "This screw doesn't come out, it moves a slider on the inside to allow the cover to be removed, once screwed all the way, you can pull the rear of the handle out" is this the same for the drivers door handle with lock? do i just pull it as im a little weary of applying to much force incase i snap something.

IMG_20171007_141156_resized_20171007_021650716.jpgIMG_20171007_141209_resized_20171007_021650420.jpg

this is a scarier job than the brakes :/ just hope i remember to put all the screw back in properly lol who said this job takes under an hour :p

cheers
 
Cammy,

There's no need to remove the door handle to take the lock out.
The linkage between the two does need to be removed however.

Steve
 
Cammy,

There's no need to remove the door handle to take the lock out.
The linkage between the two does need to be removed however.

Steve

so how do you remove the linkage? what do i unclip from inside? what part of my photo do i remove?

cheers
 
before removing the door lock you will see a black threaded split holding bracket that is connected to the door lock. for me to remove this i pushed it past the split part of the threaded section as it was easier (probably not the way to do it) what i did notice was when changing this part over you need to pivot it to left or right (cant remember) as it will slide down into the hooked holder. hope this makes sense but looking at the other door lock it looked like it just popped in and popped out but it doesnt.

after all the hard work was done in stripping everything it looks like i was sold a defective unit courtesy of an ebay member who strips a2's .....will need to find his name and post it. i cant return it as i bought it about 2 years ago and thats me just getting around to do this job :/ so will try and strip down mine and see where the fault is, failing that its hammer time :D

some photos.... IMG-20171007-WA0000_resized_20171007_061401206.jpegIMG-20171007-WA0004.jpgIMG-20171007-WA0006.jpg

a big thanks to depronman for his patience and help on this job :)
 
Cammy,

Yes, that's the way to remove it, there's more details here: http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...d_installing_door_lock_(front)/#x-r2d6fscbozc

What's wrong with the replacement lock?

Steve

not sure but i did open up my original one and cleaned the micrositch as per this video guide.... i'm assuming this might be the same problem with the replacement. when i have more time i will open up and sort it out :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5dtdyDDgrw

it was all full of crap, so cleaned it put it back together and installed the original back into my car and it's now working :)

just make sure you take photos of both halfs of the door lock when your take it apart, incase something falls out of place! it was easier than i thought and if i can do it then everyone else can :D

cheers
 
I started this thinking it would be a nice easy job...ha, ha, ha!

Having just about completed it, replacing with a switch from china, I don't think I would do it again.
I would instead try first squirting electrical cleaner into the catch (open door, then activate the catching mechanism then spray down into the gap where the catch comes from as that's where the switch is located)
If that didn't work I would cobble together a separate door close switch similar to other cars and splice that into the wiring. Open switch is door open closed switch is door closed. Oh if anyone wanted it the door catch connector pins 4 and 8(ground?) carry this switch circuit.
Now someone remind me why I started this...
 
I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for info on how to remove the front door locks, and found the bit about only removing the bottom two bolts on the window frame very helpful. Both of my front doors failed to register as opened and the prime candidate appeared to be the main microswitch.

Anyway, having primed myself with lots of videos on removing various parts of the door, I got the door stripped down to the window frame without too much difficulty, then realised I didn't have the right Torx bit to remove the frame. Undeterred, I decided to remove the door lock anyway and see what I could do to get it out afterwards. Here's what I found, hopefully it'll help anyone else giving this a go:

For the front doors there is a bar running from the door handle to the lock mechanism, and it's held in place by a plastic quick release grip lock as shown below:

door lock original position.png


The inner part of the grip lock is threaded and holds onto the threaded end of the bar. The outer cylinder of the grip lock slides up and down over the inner, preventing the bar from popping out. It also tightens the grip on the bar as it is slid up into its locked position.
To release the bar, reach in behind the widow Frame with your hand and pull the outer plastic part down until it looks like this:

door lock handle bar released.png


Once the bar from the handle has been released, and the two M8 spline bolts that hold the lock onto the door frame have been removed, then the complete door lock mechanism is free to move in the gap between the window frame and the door. What I found was that I could move and manipulate the lock enough to present the clip that holds the microswitch in place through the gap (sorry, no picture). I was able to release the clip that holds the microswitch and then bring it out to strip and test (the rubber skirt on the plunger had dozed so I was expecting it to be in need of a clean inside). Sure enough, it wasn't registering contact and a quick clean sorted it out. It was then a simple matter of replacing the microswitch (this is so much easier if the lock is in the locked position) and the clip.

Unfortunately, on testing again it the door was still not registering as opened. A quick check of the microswitch showed that the actuator on the door wasn't making enough contact with the switch - possibly the switch plunger had worn away.

A cleverer man would probably have given up at this point, but I noticed I had access to both the Torx screws, and the clips that hold the halves of the lock together - you can see one at the bottom of the picture below. The other is smaller and on the other edge and end of the lock (no picture again).

Door lock Medium.png


I was then able to dismantle the lock in situ and remove it without any difficulty and take it away to fix it properly.

As a temporary measure, I fashioned a small plastic flap from a food carton, it's held in place by the same clip that holds the microswitch, and sits over the microswitch plunger (again no picture). This fixed the problem with the gap between the actuator and the switch, so I gave refitting a try. Again it was really very easy to rebuild the lock inside the door, the clips and Torx screws are easily accessed and there is plenty of space to move the lock around. Getting the metal bar from the door handle in place was a little awkward, but not too difficult.

A quick test showed that the lock was now working and it will do until the replacement microswitches arrive. I'll leave the passenger door until then as well.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for info on how to remove the front door locks, and found the bit about only removing the bottom two bolts on the window frame very helpful. Both of my front doors failed to register as opened and the prime candidate appeared to be the main microswitch.

Anyway, having primed myself with lots of videos on removing various parts of the door, I got the door stripped down to the window frame without too much difficulty, then realised I didn't have the right Torx bit to remove the frame. Undeterred, I decided to remove the door lock anyway and see what I could do to get it out afterwards. Here's what I found, hopefully it'll help anyone else giving this a go:

For the front doors there is a bar running from the door handle to the lock mechanism, and it's held in place by a plastic quick release grip lock as shown below:

View attachment 100500

The inner part of the grip lock is threaded and holds onto the threaded end of the bar. The outer cylinder of the grip lock slides up and down over the inner, preventing the bar from popping out. It also tightens the grip on the bar as it is slid up into its locked position.
To release the bar, reach in behind the widow Frame with your hand and pull the outer plastic part down until it looks like this:

View attachment 100501

Once the bar from the handle has been released, and the two M8 spline bolts that hold the lock onto the door frame have been removed, then the complete door lock mechanism is free to move in the gap between the window frame and the door. What I found was that I could move and manipulate the lock enough to present the clip that holds the microswitch in place through the gap (sorry, no picture). I was able to release the clip that holds the microswitch and then bring it out to strip and test (the rubber skirt on the plunger had dozed so I was expecting it to be in need of a clean inside). Sure enough, it wasn't registering contact and a quick clean sorted it out. It was then a simple matter of replacing the microswitch (this is so much easier if the lock is in the locked position) and the clip.

Unfortunately, on testing again it the door was still not registering as opened. A quick check of the microswitch showed that the actuator on the door wasn't making enough contact with the switch - possibly the switch plunger had worn away.

A cleverer man would probably have given up at this point, but I noticed I had access to both the Torx screws, and the clips that hold the halves of the lock together - you can see one at the bottom of the picture below. The other is smaller and on the other edge and end of the lock (no picture again).

View attachment 100502

I was then able to dismantle the lock in situ and remove it without any difficulty and take it away to fix it properly.

As a temporary measure, I fashioned a small plastic flap from a food carton, it's held in place by the same clip that holds the microswitch, and sits over the microswitch plunger (again no picture). This fixed the problem with the gap between the actuator and the switch, so I gave refitting a try. Again it was really very easy to rebuild the lock inside the door, the clips and Torx screws are easily accessed and there is plenty of space to move the lock around. Getting the metal bar from the door handle in place was a little awkward, but not too difficult.

A quick test showed that the lock was now working and it will do until the replacement microswitches arrive. I'll leave the passenger door until then as well.
Adding a bit of food packaging materials, spread, (margerine), tub being favourite, has long been a worn micro switch button fix on similarly afflicted TTs.
Mac.
 
Morning all,

I’ve been having issues with the door locks ‘cycling’ as I turn the ignition on as such I finally got round to swapping out the CCU (AF unit) which seems to have cured the issue. That said, I’m somewhat in the dark as to what I need to code the replacement (second hand) CCU to my car.

A quick scan on VCDS this morning (after I cleared the faults and performed a rescan after key was removed and reinserted in the ignition) shows there are issues with all doors with the exception of the drivers.

I know I may have issues with failing micro switches within the door locks but is there anything I need to do before I replace three door locks :(

Cheers,

Ben
 

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Morning Ben,

To ensure you have the coding is as it was before the swap and if you still have the old CCCU, you plug it back in and get the stored coding figure from it. Maybe you have an old scan that you can refer back to which will save plugging the old one in.

Yes you may well have a few door lock modules at fault here unfortunately. Have you got rear electric windows, if so then the AF CCCU will need to be coded to reflect this.

Have a look at this thread as it’s quite total on the coding explanation:


Kind regards,

Tom
 
Morning Ben,

To ensure you have the coding is as it was before the swap and if you still have the old CCCU, you plug it back in and get the stored coding figure from it. Maybe you have an old scan that you can refer back to which will save plugging the old one in.

Yes you may well have a few door lock modules at fault here unfortunately. Have you got rear electric windows, if so then the AF CCCU will need to be coded to reflect this.

Have a look at this thread as it’s quite total on the coding explanation:


Kind regards,

Tom
Thank you Tom. Very helpful indeed.

Ben
 
I’ve been having issues with the door locks ‘cycling’ as I turn the ignition on as such I finally got round to swapping out the CCU (AF unit) which seems to have cured the issue. That said, I’m somewhat in the dark as to what I need to code the replacement (second hand) CCU to my car.

You won't know whether or not the CCU change has stopped the locks 'cycling' until your new CCU is correctly coded and your remote fobs are fully operational with the new CCU.

If the only issues you have now are with door microswitches needing attention, it's probably safe to wait until @timmus heads down to Leighton Buzzard next year, and then get him to reflow the solder in the locks rather than changing them over.
 
Afternoon all.

Hope you‘re enjoying the good weather.

Sadly I took the opportunity to swap out the front passenger door lock as the previous had an issue not opening from the outside. However in doing so, I have now managed to permantely lock the passenger front passenger door :( The lock cycles with the central locking and there are no faults within VCDS however for some reason it just wont allow me to open the door either from the inside or outside.

I’d be grateful for any help on this.

Thanks,

Ben
 
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