Drivers door checkstrap

That is a great post, i was thinking about saying that it should be put as a a thread when i noticed it at the bottom one of his post's (the link), but got side tracked and never got back to it

Cheers Phil
 
Typical. Just as the 2004 checkstrap goes pearshaped today. Sooner I get the guide quicker I can sort it I hope.

Must admit with the noise and movement it may be the nylon rollers inside the door.
 
As long as you can remove a door card, you can change a strap.

It really is one of the easier jobs to do on an A2 and I'm sure you can tackle it Foghorn. But, if not, give me a shout.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Luckily I had a saved copy of A2drivers guide and I've converted it to pdf. See attatched.

Must get round to doing mine...

VonB.
 

Attachments

  • How to change Audi A2 door strap.pdf
    192.9 KB · Views: 12,637
Thanks as ever guys. Tackled the check strap today and both rivets had gone! Sorted it with a pair of nut/bolts - good as new.

The replacement of the rear seat belts after the dogs had chewed them was a challenge especially trying to work out how all the panels popped off - Only two clips broke and one finger trapped!

I was so lucky getting a pair of A2 belts of eBay for £95/pr. Otherwise they are soooo expensive.
 
Hi all
Just replaced door strap but now the doors don't lock , windows work
Or mirrors adjust :(

Does anything have to be reset or reprogrammed before
I take all the door apart again ???

Regards
 
pantsdavies said:
Hi all
Just replaced door strap but now the doors don't lock , windows work
Or mirrors adjust :(

Does anything have to be reset or reprogrammed before
I take all the door apart again ???

Regards
Click to expand...

Did you disturb some of the wiring whilst replacing the strap? The check strap is a purely mechanical component, so shouldn't have anything to do with the locking system or the windows. Did you remove the door card completely, or just shift it to one side and rest it on a box whilst replacing the strap?

Tom
 
definitely worth checking the electrical connectors are secured and in place when putting the door card back on.
 
Thanks all, I just thought it may need resetting or something

The pink plug wasn't in all the way.
No more nasty clicking.
It really is a 25 min job and I didn't break any clips(even after
Taking door card off twice ) :)

Again awesome forum , great help thanks
 
Just wanted to say I replaced both front door check straps today using the PDF guide at post #7. Thanks very much to the author of the guide. It was even easier than suggested and took less than 30 minutes per door. There is no need to undo the electrical connections on the door after removing the door card; the card itself will hook onto the door frame just below the glass and rest against the large speaker with the connections all in place. I had no Torx 25 bit but a Torx 20 fitted fine, maybe some cars do use Torx 20 screws. I am not exactly delicate with my hands but I managed to remove and re-fit both door cards without breaking a single attachment clip on either one so it can be done!
 
What the guide doesn't mention is that replacing both the screws under the handle can be a challenge even a brain surgeon would willingly avoid!

Just performed this exercise and it seems that if the screws aren't guided precisely into their holes, they are more than likely to fall into a small crevice within the handle thus requiring a lot of cursed extrication. Rinse and repeat until car or you win..
 
sailesh said:
Just performed this exercise and it seems that if the screws aren't guided precisely into their holes, they are more than likely to fall into a small crevice within the handle thus requiring a lot of cursed extrication. Rinse and repeat until car or you win..
Click to expand...

If the screw doesn't go into its little hole first time 'around, a screwdriver with a magnetic end is the solution to this problem.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Last edited:
Another way for both insertion and extraction of difficult to reach locations is to place a small ball of "Blu Tack" on the end of the driver first, before driving/retrieving. I t works every time!

David
 
DJ 190 said:
Another way for both insertion and extraction of difficult to reach locations is to place a small ball of "Blu Tack" on the end of the driver first, before driving/retrieving. I t works every time!

David
Click to expand...

We should make that a "Sticky" post

Again, apologies, it is just I can't resist (even though I should)

Steve B
 
The driver's door strap was making a very loud crack noise on opening so I replaced the failing rivets with bolts as described earlier in this thread.
This seemed to however make the noise even louder!

Removing and re-inspecting the mechanism I noticed that the nylon roller on the fixed side was worn to a flat spot. This was causing the strap to be very loose. In comparison, the roller on the sprung side was hardly worn.

I removed the bolts I had installed instead of the rivets to dismantle the bracket from the mechanism and drove out the pin holding the nylon roller:

DSC03293.jpg

The picture clearly shows how the roller has been worn. It also shows that the strap lines up with the lower end of the roller when fitted to the door and effectively only touches half of it. Only half of the roller is worn, the other half is untouched.

I reassembled the check strap with the roller reversed so the worn side was now on the top:

DSC03294.jpg

The picture shows how the strap only runs through the bottom half of the two rollers when fitted to the door.

With the roller reversed, the door now opens and closes silently and smoothly!

The rollers also now rotate when the door moves. The strap itself as well as the mechanism had been previously covered in excessive quantities of grey grease as well as being sprayed with white grease. I cleaned most of the grease off the strap and the outside of the rollers before reassembly. I would have thought that as the rollers are meant to roll over the strap as it is inserted and withdrawn, the strap itself therefore should not be lubricated as that could cause the it to slide past stationary rollers rather than rotate them and cause the flat spot as I have.

Does anyone know of the correct lubrication procedure for the door check straps? I have 3 A2s and all have had white grease sprayed previously into the gap on the side of the door cards (and over the door cards!) and therefore over the strap and the outside of the rollers.

regards

Andrew

Does
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top