EGR Valve change

About an hour, not hard, but access is limited, I have done it all from the top, need to remove scuttle panel to get to the bolts. remove wash with diesel & refit.
 
Morning Neil, depends which model you have.
I have the 90 atl and I can get to it fine. First in esr in windcreen wiper puller, remove then remove washer jets, remove scuttle by pulling up out of ridge in windscreen. Unbolt 3 10mm nuts on the bulkhead and two t20 screws on top of the air intake. Just unclip the turbo to intaake pipe and pull out. Unbolt three bolts each on the asv and spacer tibe using a 5 hex Allen key. Maybe worth getting new seals if those in there are flattened.

The problem I found was the two 6mm hex bolts holding the egr feed pipe onto the bottom face of the egr are very tight and hard to get at. I used a shallow head long handled allen key. Even then you can turn 8th of a turn at a time. When bolts are out I couldn't separate the feed pipe from the egr as the feed pipe from egr cooler is rigid and held by a clamp down back of engine. If you have ramps you can get up under there and do it OK, if not then that's the end of the road normally.
Get a new crush or gasket for egr pipe too and seals for egr unit to intake.

So yes easy to get to, hard to actually remove the last hurdle!

If you have a 75 maybe they don't have this problem as the pipes are different and egr unit too. Similar layout and pre work though. It's the water cooled egr feed pipe that causes biggest issue.

16576943391534032234374813617214.jpg
Black is pipes and orange egr on an atl
 
Morning Neil, depends which model you have.
I have the 90 atl and I can get to it fine. First in esr in windcreen wiper puller, remove then remove washer jets, remove scuttle by pulling up out of ridge in windscreen. Unbolt 3 10mm nuts on the bulkhead and two t20 screws on top of the air intake. Just unclip the turbo to intaake pipe and pull out. Unbolt three bolts each on the asv and spacer tibe using a 5 hex Allen key. Maybe worth getting new seals if those in there are flattened.

The problem I found was the two 6mm hex bolts holding the egr feed pipe onto the bottom face of the egr are very tight and hard to get at. I used a shallow head long handled allen key. Even then you can turn 8th of a turn at a time. When bolts are out I couldn't separate the feed pipe from the egr as the feed pipe from egr cooler is rigid and held by a clamp down back of engine. If you have ramps you can get up under there and do it OK, if not then that's the end of the road normally.
Get a new crush or gasket for egr pipe too and seals for egr unit to intake.

So yes easy to get to, hard to actually remove the last hurdle!

If you have a 75 maybe they don't have this problem as the pipes are different and egr unit too. Similar layout and pre work though. It's the water cooled egr feed pipe that causes biggest issue.

View attachment 96857
Black is pipes and orange egr on an atl
That’s brilliant Many thanks πŸ™
 
Im not sure why i couldnt get my egr feed pipe seperated from the egr itself, may been on there so hot for so long. I didnt ant to whack it with a hammer and chisel incase i broke the surface and that would allow exhaust gases out when back together. Maybe you can be heavy handed with it and split the joint? I would very much like to get mine off to put new seals in but hey ho. Tried three times now and gave up. The two bolts on the pipe took me 20 minutes to get off form the top and a bad back :cool:
 
75 TDI has two engine options, AMF until 2003 then BHC. BHC uses the same EGR (separate from ASV) as the 90 (ATL), AMF uses combination EGR/ASV.
 
No need to remove the scuttle or wiper arm, just remove the rubber seal around the engine bay and gently lift up the scuttle and support it with a car wash sponge. Now you can access the screws on the cabin air intake with a short bit and small ratchet.
 
@CrispyEdd If you can not remove the feed pipe from the EGR then remove the EGR complete with the cooler. Clamp the coolant pipes before removing them. Once out the car it is easier to split the cooler from the EGR valve. Replace the gaskets at both gas ends of the cooler. You may find it easier to refit built up rather than try to bolt on the EGR afterwards.
 
@CrispyEdd If you can not remove the feed pipe from the EGR then remove the EGR complete with the cooler. Clamp the coolant pipes before removing them. Once out the car it is easier to split the cooler from the EGR valve. Replace the gaskets at both gas ends of the cooler. You may find it easier to refit built up rather than try to bolt on the EGR afterwards.
Intersting idea, I would need to get to the cooler feed off the exhaust manifold and also the cooler brace bracket?
 
No need to remove the scuttle or wiper arm, just remove the rubber seal around the engine bay and gently lift up the scuttle and support it with a car wash sponge. Now you can access the screws on the cabin air intake with a short bit and small ratchet.
Does your instruction apply to the AMF engine also? So, the cabin air intake is only secured with 2 screws? I have an 1.4 tdi AMF and need to replace the EGR/ASV assembly, any further tips on removing the 2 lower screws that hold the assembly to the recirc flange would be most welcome.
Cheers.
 
@hoverdog
Yes instructions valid for AMF engine. I removed the hot inlet from the bottom of the EGR by using ball end Allen keys, a short length of pipe is always useful for a bit more leverage.
 
It is tight to get underneath those bolts, a palm ratchet or short stubby allen no6 helps. Then used my fingers and a no6 bit. You may need to smack gently a flat blade screwdriver intonthe join to po it apart. Don't forget to have a new gasket to put back on.
 
A tip is to place some old rags or towel below the area you will be working in. This will then catch anything that is dropped and make it easier to retrieve. As this area is dirty do not use anything you care about.

Remember to remove it all afterwards to prevent smoke or even fire.......
 
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