Emissions test fail.

I thought it was only fair to gave my mot tester a heads up, although once on the ramp you can miss the straight pipe.
I know for a fact our de-cat tdi’s mike wont disperse anywhere near to what a decat Petrol would...
I’m happy it passed and mainly my car runs awesome.
 
The emission cert on rosscanning's post shows that the test limit applying was 1.5 l/m - when the MoT was done on mine last Oct the emission cert says that the test limit applying was 3.0 l/m - mine passed that but wouldn't have passed at 1.5 l/m.

What's the correct figure ?
 
From May this year, the limits are:

First registered before July 2008 - 2.5 (non-turbo), 3.0 (turbo)
Registered after 1July 2008 -1 Jan 2014 - 1.5 (any vehicle)
Registered after 1 Jan 2014 - 0.7 (any vehicle)

In all cases, if the makers plate specs a lower value, this will be used instead.
 
That's fine then - I'm not interested in meeting European regulations and there's plenty of cars and bikes on the road that don't meet Euro 3 or 2 or whatever.

As long as Tank passes the MOT and is legal, then that'll do me.

But there is a current legal requirement for any vehicle to meet the emission standard that it was sold with. The only reason that your vehicle passes the MOT is that it only tests for particulates; that might change but it doesn't make your car legal. The crazy part of the law is that it is quite legal for a cat to be removed but it is illegal to use that vehicle on the road.

RAB
 
And there's the issue - how does a tester know what the vehicle originally was sold with? The law is crazy and it's not just the one tester that's never picked up on it, I've had MOTs done at 4 separate test centres, including 2 Audi franchises. Never an issue at all.
 
Over here we see the same challenges wrt the emission part of the MOT...
What can one do.... well there are element of this were we can have some influence... diesels are not rocket science... compression rate must be ok. If injection pressure is OK and nozzels are doing their job properly we are more or less left with not disturbing the diesel path and then do what we can to get as many oxygen molekyl into the combustion camber at as low temperature as possible.... some basic matters counts...
  • Ensure air filter to be in good condition (a dirty air filter will reduce the amount of oxygen molekyl reaching the camber)
  • Ensure there are no leaks between turbo and inlet manifold ( a leak here cause reduced efficiency )
  • Fresh engine oil (I have used the same MOT guy for the last 20 years. In 2001 we started to measure before and after oil change... we were surprised wrt the results... over here I can do MOT 4 months early or one month late so it is fairly easy to match maintenance scheme with the MOT)
  • Ensure diesel filter is in good condition (flow restriction affect the map)
  • If the car have not reached nominell temperature, do not let the MOT tester start the test.
Last barriers:
  • Check the calibration of the MOT equipment if you fail
  • Consider alternative fuels (lamp oil, canola, low sulphur diesel gives less soot, if you add petrol go for 1% 2 stroke oil too because petrol is too dry for the tight tolerances in the PD injectors or CR pumps... )
Thanks to google translate for the hard work... though reed this with a dash of ironi ( I could not find the ironi button...)
Cheers
dieselfan
 
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From May this year, the limits are:

First registered before July 2008 - 2.5 (non-turbo), 3.0 (turbo)
Registered after 1July 2008 -1 Jan 2014 - 1.5 (any vehicle)
Registered after 1 Jan 2014 - 0.7 (any vehicle)

In all cases, if the makers plate specs a lower value, this will be used instead.

Thanks, hopefully I'll be ok - mine showed 2.47 last Oct although it's getting worse each year.
 
Great, thrash your car to pass the MOT and pick up a speed awareness course.

When are those numpties in Government going to realise it probably takes more energy to build a car than it burns in its life time. Be environmentally friendly and run an old motor.
 
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