Sylvester
Member
Any idea why adaptation keep failing?
EML light keep coming on but no fault code
- Thread starter Sylvester
- Start date
audifan
A2OC Donor
You have connected everything back up after the rebuild?. Make sure all disturbed plugs don't have any bent or corroded contacts. Next after verifying all plugs are good, I would disconnect the battery for a couple of hours. While it is disconnected give it a good charge. Reconnect the battery and then rerun adaptation. If still refuses to work, run adaptation on old valve to prove not software or cable issue. If old works then starting to sound like a fault in the new valve.
Sylvester
Member
On old egr adaptation works good, but on both new ones, one wasn't compatible though, always the error message with the very low voltage numbers, like I'm the pics. Battery is 12.3v that'd be good, all pins connected properly but the head is a bit different as they don't click on. I have to send both she back now, and I'm thinking just to get a used one from ebay, that'd be definitely compatible. Thanks
ajsellors
A2OC Donor
Hi,
as you spotted, the first adaption is indicating the same voltage for both fully open and fully closed. Your old EGR validates the wiring so it looks like the new EGR valve is probably faulty, either jammed and doesn't move or has a faulty potentiometer that doesn't register the movement. You should be able to hear a click as the flap moves during the adaption. No click, no movement and the valve is faulty. Either way, that's a fail! The ECU needs to know the correct potentiometer readings for the opened and closed positions from the adaption otherwise it may end up energising the solenoid all the time to try and get it to move to where it thinks it needs to go and never reach there. When this happens the solenoid can get very hot and potentially burn out, ruining the EGR. That's why its important to always run with a valid adaption for the EGR fitted.
regards
Andrew
Sylvester
Member
Hi Andrew, thanks for the detailed info. I'm sending the EGR back, sent pictures as well to them. The clicking was fine, opened and closed, but still didn't want to accept the adaptation.
When I removed the faulty new one and had to do adaptation for the old egr, it keeps saying "run" and after few clicks "ok" for a second, then ok-run goes in a loop every 10 seconds or so. So I found it working good if I quit adaptation, when it says "ok". Just need good timing.
I did this 2 weeks ago too when I ordered wrong one first, 503R and I needed 503M, and I went on holiday next day. I did Bournemouth-Luton, 10 days later same back from airport, so 350+ miles and it worked good. Eml came on the way back, but that happens over 60mph for a few months hence I need a new one, so it was good that didnt happen on the way there.
I don't trust these aftermarket egrs now, the genuine new ones cost a lot, so went on eBay and found a few original unused, but they we're made 2000-2005. My question is, are they gonna work good, if they haven't been used for nearly 20 years? Cheers
ajsellors
A2OC Donor
As long as it has been handled and stored OK (i.e. not dropped, been under water etc.) then it should be fine stored for a long time.
Its the adverse conditions of having to handle high temperature exhaust gasses, soot and vibration during use that eventually causes them to fail.
Perhaps the problem ones you got were being sold off at a low price because they were production QA rejects? Or they are just really badly made!
If you still get problems, I have a lightly used OEM EGR in my garage that's the wrong one for my car. I'm not sure of the part number without looking but its the one with the black plastic body rather than the metal.
regards
Andrew
Sylvester
Member
The cheap ones definitely waste of time and money, so I won't risk buying another one, even if there's plenty.
Thanks for the offer, the EGR I need has metal body, serial number ends with 503M.
I order a new-old one from ebay and see how that goes. Thanks
Sylvester
Member
So I've adapted the new egr valve, the idle speed is still around 630 and after a week or so, the eml with egr insufficient flow P0401 code appeared again..just like with the old egr. I start to think the valve wasn't the issue here. It was a bit dirty but opened-closed good.
Someone mentioned it in another topic, that code can mean a lot. MAP or MAF, (not sure what the 1.4 petrol has, I've looked it up but found different answers) sensor dirty or vacuum leak or even blockage in the throttle body. If I delete the eml it only re-appears again, when I drive over 45-50mph, just like with the old Egr.
Where shall I start the inspection and where's this MAP or MAF sensor? Thanks
Someone mentioned it in another topic, that code can mean a lot. MAP or MAF, (not sure what the 1.4 petrol has, I've looked it up but found different answers) sensor dirty or vacuum leak or even blockage in the throttle body. If I delete the eml it only re-appears again, when I drive over 45-50mph, just like with the old Egr.
Where shall I start the inspection and where's this MAP or MAF sensor? Thanks
No longer a member
Banned
Poor flow through EGR isn't the valve.....take the throttle body off have look at the alloy spacer plate below it, there are a couple of hose connections (one is the metal pipe to the EGR valve and the other a rubber breather hose)......clean them out, I bet they're clogged with carbon.......... I've just done it on Poppy, she was throwing EGR low flow fault codes even with a new EGR valve fitted by the previous owner, since doing it no problems or fault codes. You may also want to clean the metal pipe with an airline as its a pain to remove from the engine.
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Banned
Not too sure about VCDS lite have a look on the Ross Tech website .....I can do it with my Delphi set up as well as my full VCDS.... quite a few garages have the Delphi gear as its multi manufacturer with good tech support (I use the truck software mainly)..
Sylvester
Member
Mine is on 680 as well, cleaned the thr. body and got new egr too but no change. It can be adjusted with vagcom, but there's different infos about it when I checked around the net, so until I find out exactly how I just leave it.
Try holding the gas a second longer before lifting off from the clutch, the gas pedal electrically controlled, not wired, and has a well-known bit of delay.
Have you looked at the misfire counter while the engine is running (idle)? From memory, using the VAG401 go into the Engine ECU (1), then measurement blocks (?5?), then open channel 14. About the third piece of information displayed is the total misfire counts. Moving forward onto channel 15 shows you the individual counts for cylinders 1-3, then on #16, cylinder 4.
On ours there were regular but infrequent small misfires on cylinders 1-3, but 4 got worse as time went as the engine warmed up until the ECU switched off cylinder 4 and put the engine light on - before that there was no EML or only very occasional. It turned out to be a combination of dirty injectors (not ideal), but more probably that the ignition coil was cracked and worn out structurally, sparking to earth through the casing as it warmed up. Since fitting a new coil and cleaned injectors (with already new leads and plugs) the car is running massively better with much better fuel economy.
TB adaptation once the old one had been replaced was necessary to get the twitchiness out of pulling away in first - have you cleaned / adapted your throttle body yet?
On ours there were regular but infrequent small misfires on cylinders 1-3, but 4 got worse as time went as the engine warmed up until the ECU switched off cylinder 4 and put the engine light on - before that there was no EML or only very occasional. It turned out to be a combination of dirty injectors (not ideal), but more probably that the ignition coil was cracked and worn out structurally, sparking to earth through the casing as it warmed up. Since fitting a new coil and cleaned injectors (with already new leads and plugs) the car is running massively better with much better fuel economy.
TB adaptation once the old one had been replaced was necessary to get the twitchiness out of pulling away in first - have you cleaned / adapted your throttle body yet?
Cars runs smoothly at idle, no shakes at all. Once i checked misfires for all cylinders and there were 0 on four of them.
TB not cleaned yet, still not finding someone with registered VCDS. Too afraid to remove it and not being able to calibrate with battery off.