EML light keep coming on but no fault code

bretti_kivi said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AutoDia-...m23959c93e0:g:3E4AAOSwfVhaOM10&frcectupt=true is the first one I find, it's the same cable I have.

- Bret
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks for the link. I was curious and asked the mechanic today, how much would be to replace and reprogram the EGR, he said let's clean it first. I said to him, it's an electric one and manual says cleaning can damage the seals, so needs to be replaced and reprogramed. He was like, they haven't got the software to reprogram it then. He said I gotta take it go an Audi dealer to get it done.
How's that possible, if with the cable you sent me in the link, even I'd do it easily and cost like £30, but a garage that works on expensive cars, can't do it? Cheers
 
bretti_kivi said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AutoDia-...m23959c93e0:g:3E4AAOSwfVhaOM10&frcectupt=true is the first one I find, it's the same cable I have.

- Bret
Click to expand...
Hi Bret, the description is in Deutsch. Can I change it to English somehow? Ad says it doesn't come with the full software, can I still do the EGR reset with the lite version? This might be the full version from same seller, for 80 instead of 25.

www.ebay.co.uk

AutoDia K509 + Software CarPort STANDARD-Edition Diagnose KKL+CAN+UDS+OBD2 | eBay

AutoDia K509 + Software CarPort STANDARD-Edition. folgende Protokolle werden von dem "AutoDia K509" unterstützt Für den Betrieb der Software wird das AutoDia K509 benötigt. Der Einstieg in die Diagnose für alle VAG PKW-Fahrzeuge.
www.ebay.co.uk
Thanks
 
for the light reset you just need OBD2. The starter pack of the software is free, but for measuring blocks and therefore the adaptation you'll need the pro version, apparently. https://carport-diagnostics.com/en/order

As far as the garage is concerned, it's possible they don't want the hassle, they don't know it can be done, or they don't want the work. Just because we say it's easy doesn't mean it is and others only trust the instructions they have from the manufacturer themselves... they may have to honour guarantees and are therefore not interested in doing "interesting" stuff.

- Bret
 
bretti_kivi said:
for the light reset you just need OBD2. The starter pack of the software is free, but for measuring blocks and therefore the adaptation you'll need the pro version, apparently. https://carport-diagnostics.com/en/order

As far as the garage is concerned, it's possible they don't want the hassle, they don't know it can be done, or they don't want the work. Just because we say it's easy doesn't mean it is and others only trust the instructions they have from the manufacturer themselves... they may have to honour guarantees and are therefore not interested in doing "interesting" stuff.

- Bret
Click to expand...
Okay thanks, I'll look into it. Ive looked it up and adaptation doesn't look too difficult.
I actually had to mention it to them the EGR is electric, because he kept saying let's clean it first instead replacing. Then he said gotta take it to audi dealership. I wonder if I didn't tell them, what would they have said why the engine throwing up fault codes, when the egr is already cleaned. Anyway, thanks Bret
 
Last summer our ~180k 1.4i was idling rough and had various throttle body and EGR complaints picked up on the ODBII reader. Proper Pierburg brand TB & EGRs were priced at an arm and a leg respectively (ie, significantly more than the car was worth!), so I took a punt that getting both from Aliexpress may not be as good as paying for the full fat versions, but would probably work better than originals that were full of crud and / or worn out. I made sure that I had the correct metal gaskets for fitting in both cases by obtaining them from TPS - I ended up with a substantial handful of the TB gaskets as they didn't separate when being picked which was quite handy in the event I needed to do it more than once.

EGR replacement proved simple as part of the TB replacement process - unbolted the original, fitted the new one, put it all back together- the securing nuts were a bit tight to begin with mind you so I gave them a good WD40 soaking before attempting. Took off the original TB which was indeed full of tar and left that to soak with carb / EGR cleaner ; gave the ring that fits below it a good clean, then reassembled with the new TB & gaskets.

Put everything back together. Using the ODBII reader without starting the engine, I then performed an actuator test on the engine ECU channel which made various whirring and clicking noises happen as it went through the different valves one by one, and then cleared faults before having a go at starting. All the EGR faults disappeared straight away and have never come back - so that was definitely just scrap and well worth changing. Throttle body took a few goes at adaptation and eventually cleared to the point where it was eminently driveable (to begin with it was very rough / jerky around 1600rpm). It still intermittently gets confused and throws a TB adaptation error code, but never gives an engine light or the rough running experienced previously although the fuel consumption is still quite heavy (various thoughts in mind being that I maybe didn't do enough cleaning in / around the TB area, need to check for air leaks in the induction pipework, and could do with replacing the presumably original knackered injectors which is my next "to do" bit of DIY when the weather gets better). Alternatively it could be that the Aliexpress TB isn't the best - but either way, it works and passed an MOT so that's all that matters for the moment.

In short - especially for the EGR none of this is stuff that you can't do yourself with some basic mechanical aptitude and the huge amount of information at A2oc. As many here have said having decent diagnostics for backup and assisting with the adaptations would be a significant step in the right direction. Best of luck!
 
Hi guys, so finally I got to the point of changing the EGR and all went good for like 2 minutes. Kinda getting normal nothing is going smoothly when it comes to the A2.
Anyhow, I sprayed wd40 on the rusty nuts before and the left one came off easy with long screw attached/stuck together. The right one's nut came off too, but the long screw didn't, stayed in place and doesn't seem it wanna move at all.
That yellow u-shape tube bellow it, doesn't seem to be flexible at all, didn't wanna pull it much, don't wanna break it for sure.
How can I remove that long screw? The other end has threads too. Cheers
 
Get 2 nuts the same size as the one you have taken off. Screw the first nut onto the thread, then screw the second one onto the fist and tighten on to it with 2 spanners. Now by slackening the first nut with a spanner you should be able to extract the thread due to the 2 nuts being locked together..
 
audifan said:
Get 2 nuts the same size as the one you have taken off. Screw the first nut onto the thread, then screw the second one onto the fist and tighten on to it with 2 spanners. Now by slackening the first nut with a spanner you should be able to extract the thread due to the 2 nuts being locked together..
Click to expand...
I completely forgot about that method, thanks a lot. I just don't get they designed it this way. Anyhow now I gotta leave it for tomorrow. Cheers
 
audifan said:
Get 2 nuts the same size as the one you have taken off. Screw the first nut onto the thread, then screw the second one onto the fist and tighten on to it with 2 spanners. Now by slackening the first nut with a spanner you should be able to extract the thread due to the 2 nuts being locked together..
Click to expand...
I need help ASAP PLEASE!!!!
I've put the egr back and went for a ride, but the ride was harsh and idle was 1200. After 10 min I realized I forgot to put back the small black tube!!
I put it back on the side of the road, but it was still the same! After 20 min drive a big red triangle came up and loud beeping noise!! I stopped the car and restart it to pull into a pubs driveway!
Íve plugged vag com on and fault code came up; 17961 Barometic/ manifold pressure signals, implausible correlation sporadic!!! Please help I'm in the car park and freaking out!! Have I damaged the engine???
 
Sylvester said:
I need help ASAP PLEASE!!!!
I've put the egr back and went for a ride, but the ride was harsh and idle was 1200. After 10 min I realized I forgot to put back the small black tube!!
I put it back on the side of the road, but it was still the same! After 20 min drive a big red triangle came up and loud noise!! I stopped the car and restart it to pull into a pubs driveway!
Íve plugged vag com on and fault code came up; 17961 Barometic/ manifold pressure signals, implausible correlation sporadic!!! Please help I'm in the car park and freaking out!! Have I damaged the engine???
Click to expand...

Hi,

you won't have broken the engine, but it sounds like the EGR isn't performing correctly or you have a leak somewhere.

The black rubber tube is just a vent to the inside of the valve and it doesn't do much so don't worry about it.

Either, there is a leak on the connection between the EGR and the throttle (the brass looking tube) or the EGR isn't opening / closing correctly.

Did you replace the metal sheet gaskets? They are meant to be single use and should be replaced for reassembly.

Have you performed the ECU EGR adaption? If you don't, the ECU won't control the open / closed positions of the new valve properly and will cause bad running. It can also result in the EGR solenoid burning out. See http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Exhaust_Gas_Recirculation_(EGR)_Valve_Adaptation

regards

Andrew
 
ajsellors said:
Hi,

you won't have broken the engine, but it sounds like the EGR isn't performing correctly or you have a leak somewhere.

The black rubber tube is just a vent to the inside of the valve and it doesn't do much so don't worry about it.

Either, there is a leak on the connection between the EGR and the throttle (the brass looking tube) or the EGR isn't opening / closing correctly.

Did you replace the metal sheet gaskets? They are meant to be single use and should be replaced for reassembly.

Have you performed the ECU EGR adaption? If you don't, the ECU won't control the open / closed positions of the new valve properly and will cause bad running. It can also result in the EGR solenoid burning out. See http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Exhaust_Gas_Recirculation_(EGR)_Valve_Adaptation

regards

Andrew
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks so much for quick reply! I just unscrewed he egr but didn't change it as one of the bolts were stuck. So I just put it all back. Just I case I did adaptation but coolant was 90 and not 50 degree as it was suppose to be, the adp. run and adp. ok kept changing after few seconds so a min later I just unplugged it, it was on side road as well. Shall I try adaptation when engine cools down to 50 degree? Can I drive either way if it cools down? I'm like 15 mi from home? Thanks a lot
 
Sylvester said:
Hi, thanks so much for quick reply! I just unscrewed he egr but didn't change it as one of the bolts were stuck. So I just put it all back. Just I case I did adaptation but coolant was 90 and not 50 degree as it was suppose to be, the adp. run and adp. ok kept changing after few seconds so a min later I just unplugged it, it was on side road as well. Shall I try adaptation when engine cools down to 50 degree? Can I drive either way if it cools down? I'm like 15 mi from home? Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
This may be of use...

1.4 16v bby epc 17961 & 17604

Replaced the water pump and timing belts but forgot to disconnect the battery. Coolant is low as I was unable to refill properly without the engine up to operating temp (stat open). Throttle body was removed for inspection. Engine started up immediately and ran a couple of mins before the EPC...
forums.seatcupra.net forums.seatcupra.net
 
damadgeruk said:
This may be of use...

1.4 16v bby epc 17961 & 17604

Replaced the water pump and timing belts but forgot to disconnect the battery. Coolant is low as I was unable to refill properly without the engine up to operating temp (stat open). Throttle body was removed for inspection. Engine started up immediately and ran a couple of mins before the EPC...
forums.seatcupra.net forums.seatcupra.net
Click to expand...
My epc light isn't on, well yet, the egr is definitely the reason. I just hope it didn't do damage to anything else..he red triangle was not fun at all. Thanks
 
ajsellors said:
Hi,

you won't have broken the engine, but it sounds like the EGR isn't performing correctly or you have a leak somewhere.

The black rubber tube is just a vent to the inside of the valve and it doesn't do much so don't worry about it.

Either, there is a leak on the connection between the EGR and the throttle (the brass looking tube) or the EGR isn't opening / closing correctly.

Did you replace the metal sheet gaskets? They are meant to be single use and should be replaced for reassembly.

Have you performed the ECU EGR adaption? If you don't, the ECU won't control the open / closed positions of the new valve properly and will cause bad running. It can also result in the EGR solenoid burning out. See http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Exhaust_Gas_Recirculation_(EGR)_Valve_Adaptation

regards

Andrew
Click to expand...
I did all the bits I just dont understand what does it mean switch to back to measure block as last step. Does it mean I enter 74 code in measure blocks first, wait for ok, then same 74 in basic settings, wait for adp ok again and back to measure blocks and do same 74 again? Or just back to measure blocks and stay there without any code? On my xtool vag com there's no menu 6 either, so just back to mai menu? Thanks
 
I drove home from the pub'd car park, the warning light came up 3 times in less than 10 min drive. I stopped the car a few seconds later and waited like a min and drove off again.
I've noticed when the red triangle light comes on, the EML, EPC, traction control all come up at once... I tried the adaptation again, but when I go to basics from measure blocks, the sign adp. OK never stops, just a few seconds then adp. RUN for a bit, then OK, but 3 seconds later RUN again. Not good. I try to change the egr tomorrow and adaptation again, if not bus to work and call dealership as my local mechanic says, they can't do EGR adaptation. Not great at all.
 
Hi guys, my EGR adventures just keep getting better. After receiving a wrong type one, who knew they made 3 different kind for 1.4 petrol, I've ordered the correct one. But of course things like NEVER go as they should, so this one isn't adapting either. Why would it ...
20190717_181346.jpg

20190717_183609.jpg

First image is with "new" one, second with old one.
The new one's MIN and MAX is the same. Eml comes on right away. But, if I change to the old one, doing adaption, (which isn't prefect either, because it's keep running, I just quit adaptation when it stops for a second on ADP OK, otherwise it'd just keep going continuously) and then change it to new one and only go to Measuring Blocks and check values, then all are good and says ADP OK.
Afte going to basic setting to do adaptation, triggers system right away and says error again.

The new EGR with this method did good during a 5 min test drive, but when I got back it was very hot.

After that I tried adaptation again, with same error result, so I just put old one back AGAIN, stop system on ADP OK, and now I gotta send the "new" EGR back too. Really great.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top