Exhaust heat shield, any tips on fixing.

carbore

carbore

Member
Hi,

My heat sheild is flapping around. I had a quick look at the MOT and its a combination of ripped shield and rusted fixings.

Whats the best way to attack the fixings, im assuming they are into the petrol tank so not a lot of room for alternate locations (drilling would be scary). Hopefully ill be able to get my good mole grips on them and wind them out, but im assuming some will snap flush to the plastic.

Any advice and tips appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I’m doing the same job just now. I’ve looked it and there is no saving it and the brackets on the exhaust side are shot too. So I’m going to use metal fasteners to hold it to the exhaust. The screw to tighten type, not sure of the “official” name.


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HI, thanks, ill consider that although mounting to the exhaust might be a recipe for rattles. Great youtube channel BTW, helped me on a few jobs so far and a source of inspiration.
 
When my fuel filter heat shield was ripped back when I got caught in hidden flood water back in February I replaced the torn off studs with these big headed stud fasteners glued on with Silkaflex

1605475855056.png


1605475913787.png

I used plastic nuts to tighten the heatshield into place on the new studs.
 
Ahh sorry I was talking about the manifold heat shield which will be the only way I can think of to fasten it. Ill drop in a pic of what I ordered.

Thank you so much re the videos. Glad to help. I’ll be putting up one of the heat shield soon hopefully.


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When heatshield weldstuds snaps, which they do quite often to me since my cars are longrunners (400.000km+)
My experience is as following:

Heat shields are normally secured with the largeheaded plate nuts as shown below
Heatshield nut.jpg


When these weld studs snaps, they often leave an almost 1/4 inch pieace (5-6mm), then one can use these flat clips from A1, A3 and A8 to secure up to two layers of heatshield, by using a 3/8 inch socket to knock the clips onto the remaining peace of weld stud with a plastic hammer.
(Do not knock directly on the clips please)
image_2020-11-15_235258.png

For those broken screws located in the tank I just drill a new 3.5 mm hole besides the old hole or further away from the tank.
(To get out the broken screw, one need a miracle so it is to me better to just grind flat and drill a new hole)
A2 tank leppe alt hull.jpg


I then use a standard large headed torx screw to secure the tank side of the heatshield.

Chassyskruer.jpg

A general advice is to apply water resistant grease to screws and clips underneath the car especially if you use the car in an area where roads are salted during the winter.... That grease increase life of screws, bolts, nut, clips do to reduced ingress of chlorides. You will notice that 2 years later it is possible to disassemble without breaking every screw.... ?
I hope that was possible to understand....

cheers
dieselfan
 
Last edited:
I wrote up a guide how I fixed my heat shield using rivnuts and roofing washers

Fixing the weather / heat shield - another thread

Recently I fixed my weather / heat shield with the help of Matt's (wilco184) excellent thread from earlier in the year: http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?30198-Rivnuts . I had some variations in the materials used and fixing. ======= Focus of work ======= The main focus was the...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net
 
I liked Alan’s method. I used JB Weld epoxy to stick bolts to the underside of the car (using a large washer and some aluminium tape so I could get a good area of contact for the epoxy. It avoids any drilling into the body which was scary to me.

I then used some aluminium plate cut into the right shapes to catch the remains of the heat shields and hold them up.

It worked really well. And is holding firm so far. I had four sections of heat shielding dropped down.

Previously I had used stainless steel ‘cable ties’. They did an okay job but there was a fair bit of slack due to a lack of anchor points.

Good luck!


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