False floor alloy captive nuts wanted.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Hi everybody, finally i've managed to obtain all i need to do the twist false floor swap but need these 3 alloy captive nuts. Has anyone got any that i can have?

Massive thanks to Steve Birchall if it wasn't for Steve talking to me about something on ebay i would never have come across the false floor.

Cheers Mark.

 

[A2Steve]

I think they are welded as part of the bracket from memory Mark.

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

I think they are welded as part of the bracket from memory Mark.

I can't say Steve, all i know is that pic i used is from A2 cars that i found on here when researching and according to Tony they need a special tool to put them in. They could be just a press fit?

 

[Neil50]

I can't say Steve, all i know is that pic i used is from A2 cars that i found on here when researching and according to Tony they need a special tool to put them in. They could be just a press fit?

They may be rivnuts which use a special tool for application.

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

They may be rivnuts which use a special tool for application.

Hi Neil,

Your onto it i just couldn't remember the exact term so i went digging and found the post by A2 cars i'll quote.

"Just an added note on the false boot floor.
Vehicles that are not fitted with this feature during manufacture do not have all of the locations populated by captive nuts, only the positions in the wheel arches do.

When we carry out false floor upgrades, we have a special tool to insert captive riv-nuts to all the empty locations ensuring the correct fitment of the support brackets. This guarantees no rattles and the floor can be used to its full capacity - yet another little detail that sets A2 Cars above the rest."

 

[Birchall]

Hi Neil,

Your onto it i just couldn't remember the exact term so i went digging and found the post by A2 cars i'll quote.

"Just an added note on the false boot floor.
Vehicles that are not fitted with this feature during manufacture do not have all of the locations populated by captive nuts, only the positions in the wheel arches do.

When we carry out false floor upgrades, we have a special tool to insert captive riv-nuts to all the empty locations ensuring the correct fitment of the support brackets. This guarantees no rattles and the floor can be used to its full capacity - yet another little detail that sets A2 Cars above the rest."

It is so easy to just use an ordinary nut and bolt (with washers of course) You have access to the rear of the bracket (as you can see in the picture above) and so there is no need for captive nuts.

I imagine they only used captive nuts for speed of assembly, nuts and bolts are all that is needed

You only need one or two each side even, the bracket is very secure anyway and these bolts at the end are really only needed to prevent rattles etc.

Steve B

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

It is so easy to just use an ordinary nut and bolt (with washers of course) You have access to the rear of the bracket (as you can see in the picture above) and so there is no need for captive nuts.

I imagine they only used captive nuts for speed of assembly, nuts and bolts are all that is needed

You only need one or two each side even, the bracket is very secure anyway and these bolts at the end are really only needed to prevent rattles etc.

Steve B

Yep that would be the easy way Steve, trouble is they need to be Aluminium nuts to avoid cathartic corrosion if that's the word. No it's not the word but you know what i mean. Lol
I have no idea what size these are which really doesn't help me, i was just hopping someone had a few lying around and they are obviously buyable as A2 cars buys them in.

 

[Birchall]

Yep that would be the easy way Steve, trouble is they need to be Aluminium nuts to avoid cathartic corrosion if that's the word. No it's not the word but you know what i mean. Lol
I have no idea what size these are which really doesn't help me, i was just hopping someone had a few lying around and they are obviously buyable as A2 cars buys them in.

You can use ordinary nuts as long as you use an alloy washer (much easier to buy) or other insulation. The bolts are not aluminium either, they are VERY heavy and cannot be aluminium, but I guess they have been treated somehow?

Surely it is easier to find nuts that are used on the A2 (all over) than find captive nut systems and special tools?
Even easier to find aluminium washers!

Steve B

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

You can use ordinary nuts as long as you use an alloy washer (much easier to buy) or other insulation. The bolts are not aluminium either, they are VERY heavy and cannot be aluminium, but I guess they have been treated somehow?

Surely it is easier to find nuts that are used on the A2 (all over) that find captive nut systems and special tools?

Steve B

Yes your right mate, an alloy washer might be the trick.

 

[Birchall]

Better still, the articles I have been searching seem to indicate that it is ok anyway

Quoting from https://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

It states

"Although aluminium is anodic to stainless steel, large relative surface areas of aluminium to stainless steel can be acceptable, dependant on local conditions. Stainless steel fasteners in aluminium plates or sheets are normally considered safe"
Basically it is saying on large aluminium structures (such as a car body) a stainless fastener is no problem, but an aluminium faster on a large stainless sheet would react

Another site indicates the following
"It is unusual to see galvanic corrosion on aluminium in contact with stainless steel (passive)."

So stainless nuts may be another option.

Steve B

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Thanks a million mate that puts my mind at rest.

 

[Birchall]

And the fact that it is an area that is nice and dry unlike anything bolted in the wheel arches or under the car, means that it is even less of an issue.

Steve B

 

[Andrew]

And the fact that it is an area that is nice and dry unlike anything bolted in the wheel arches or under the car, means that it is even less of an issue.

Steve B

In fact, your link states corrosion CANNOT occur if dry.

Also the first sentence basically says corrosion only occurs if wet so a good blob of paint on head and nut rules out atmospheric moisture.

Andy

 

[spike]

For anyone interested in alloy rivnuts, Matt (Wilco) found a source on ebay with the link in this post - https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/rivnuts.30198/post-252156
Other posts from the same thread cover his repair of the heat shield mountings with info on the riveting tool etc

Cheers Spike

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

For anyone interested in alloy rivnuts, Matt (Wilco) found a source on ebay with the link in this post - https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/rivnuts.30198/post-252156
Other posts from the same thread cover his repair of the heat shield mountings with info on the riveting tool etc

Cheers Spike

Many thanks spike exactly what i'm looking for cheers Mark.

 

[ca2n]

A bit of a sway from the topic and I apologise, but..

I'm planning on carrying out a false floor install that I bought from A2Steve some time in the future as well. On to the removal of the trim panels (or any other trim panel for that matter), is the use of trim removal tools of any benefit in anybody's experience? Something like:

After some nerve-racking experience of removing a door trim, I was wondering if these tools can be useful. Any help appreciated.

 

[Pinkythelabrat]

I was going to say I think it’s galvanic corrosion but Steve is already in there!
You need an electrolyte to facilitate the electron movement between the metals so, as Steve says, a dry, salt free environment is fine. You could also put a little paint between the surfaces or a rubber washer or Vaseline or anything really to avoid an issue even if it was a bit moist (ooeer) near the contact point.
Isn’t electrochemistry fascinating!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Birchall]

Isn’t electrochemistry fascinating!

Shockingly good.

But then it is "Current" technology

Steve B

 

[Darren C]

A bit of a sway from the topic and I apologise, but..

I'm planning on carrying out a false floor install that I bought from A2Steve some time in the future as well. On to the removal of the trim panels (or any other trim panel for that matter), is the use of trim removal tools of any benefit in anybody's experience? Something like:

After some nerve-racking experience of removing a door trim, I was wondering if these tools can be useful. Any help appreciated.

I have that very set and have used them successfully to remove trim a number of times; the largest one on the right most recently to remove the top (side) section of the bumper last weekend.

As with any such kit, choosing your weapon of choice is key. They are durable, but will flex if you opt for the wrong size for example. I'd recommend them as an essential bit of kit. Take your time, think about what you are removing and what tool(s) will work best and you shan't go far wrong.

 

[ca2n]

A bit of a sway from the topic and I apologise, but..

I'm planning on carrying out a false floor install that I bought from A2Steve some time in the future as well. On to the removal of the trim panels (or any other trim panel for that matter), is the use of trim removal tools of any benefit in anybody's experience? Something like:

After some nerve-racking experience of removing a door trim, I was wondering if these tools can be useful. Any help appreciated.

I have that very set and have used them successfully to remove trim a number of times; the largest one on the right most recently to remove the top (side) section of the bumper last weekend.

As with any such kit, choosing your weapon of choice is key. They are durable, but will flex if you opt for the wrong size for example. I'd recommend them as an essential bit of kit. Take your time, think about what you are removing and what tool(s) will work best and you shan't go far wrong.

Thanks Darren!