fault code advice

Davidkinton

Davidkinton

Member
Could anyone help with the following fault codes detected through VCDS LITE:

4 Faults Found:

16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected

P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals: Implausible Correlation

P1553 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17912 - Intake Air System: Leak Detected

P1504 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17566 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Implausible Signal

P1158 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Car is a 1.4 petrol AUA. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Rostech web site for the fault code descriptions and a likely reason for the code

What engine is in your A2


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Hi, use the Ross Tech Wiki.
For example, code 16686:

16686/P0302/000770 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com wiki.ross-tech.com

Gives you :

16686/P0302/000770 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes
Ignition system
Fuel injectors
Fuel pressure
Running out of fuel
EVAP canister purge valve
Evaporative emission system
Low compression
Base engine problems
Controle Module damaged
Special Notes
This feature search for engine misfire in a specific cylinder. Most of the time the cause for a misfire is a lack of combustion in a cylinder due to absence of spark, poor fuel metering, or poor compression.

Mac.
 
depronman said:
Rostech web site for the fault code descriptions and a likely reason for the code

What engine is in your A2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Car is a 1.4 aua. I’ve already cleaned throttle body and egr valve, replaced coil pack leads and plugs, cleaned injectors, new map sensor and oil separator. I suspect there may be a vacuum leak somewhere.


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With the engine running, spray WD-40 direct to suspect leak sites, listen for change in engine note, if WD-40 (or other similar flammable aerosol products) is sucked into inlet, via a small leak.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
With the engine running, spray WD-40 direct to suspect leak sites, listen for change in engine note, if WD-40 (or other similar flammable aerosol products) is sucked into inlet, via a small leak.
Mac.
Click to expand...
I’ve already tried this, but found it hard to get at some of the vacuum hoses, namely the one which goes to the charcoal canister and the one which feeds the brake servo.
 
If you don't have a vacum gauge, you could rig up a manometer. Bit fiddly, but, if you can tee into a vacuum line, connect a long (3 - 4 mtrs) piece of clear pvc tube. Form the open end into a U shape, and use cable clips to fix it to a board, to make a U tube manometer, about 1 mtr high. Add enough water to give a column height of about 500 mm. The engine should pull about 5 - 600 mm of vacum, so the difference between the two sides of the manometer will be around this. Once you have this, switch off, and if the column of water drops quickly, you will know for certain that you have a leak. It'll confirm a fix too. As long as you create a column of water, any lack of elegance doesn't matter.
Beats looking for a non existent leak!
Sounds OTT, but it's only a tube with water in it.
Mac.
 
For what its worth clear the codes and drive the car for a few miles.......
Then read the codes again......I've known cars to have faults repaired but the fault codes not cleared for one reason or another......
It may save hours tracking faults that don't exist....
 
Clear faults rinse repeat. Intermittent faults could be very old or new no way to tell from your post. Were the parts changed for these faults or for another reason?
 
audifan said:
Clear faults rinse repeat. Intermittent faults could be very old or new no way to tell from your post. Were the parts changed for these faults or for another reason?
Click to expand...
I’ve already cleared them but they have reoccurred and the car does seem to struggle to tick over smoothly, so I do think there’s an issue.
 
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