Fault codes P057100 and P140100

[Troender]

The Check engine light and the EPC light came on at the same time on a long drive last week, on my 2001 A2 1.4 AUA with 110,000 kilometers under the belt. When I read fault codes I get P057100 and P140100. Brake light switch and EGR valve. At the same time, I have discovered that fuse 31 has blown.

I have ordered a new EGR valve and brake light switch.

But is it that simple?

P057100

Cruise/Brake Switch (A) Circ. Malfunctio

P140100

EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve Short-circuit to groun

 

[JavaGreen]

The Check engine light and the EPC light came on at the same time on a long drive last week, on my 2001 A2 1.4 AUA with 110,000 kilometers under the belt. When I read fault codes I get P057100 and P140100. Brake light switch and EGR valve. At the same time, I have discovered that fuse 31 has blown.

I have ordered a new EGR valve and brake light switch.

But is it that simple?

P057100

Cruise/Brake Switch (A) Circ. Malfunctio

P140100

EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Valve Short-circuit to groun

Brake light switch is between clutch and brake peddle - half hour job. Search for brake switch in the search, some marvellous advice. Do not throw original away as the shaft might just require some silicone grease or similar to get it working, keep as spare.

 

[Troender]

Brake light switch is between clutch and brake peddle - half hour job. Search for brake switch in the search, some marvellous advice. Do not throw original away as the shaft might just require some silicone grease or similar to get it working, keep as spare.

Tanks!

To replace The Brake light switch is both easy and cheap. The new switch costed me 15 euro. My car does not have Cruice Control!

To replace The EGR-valve seems
seems more complicated, but still relatively simple and cheap. Bought an original VAG EGR valve for only 70 euros.

But what I'm wondering is whether anyone has had similar problems, and whether it's as simple as just replacing these parts?

 

[Sylvester]

110k km is rather low imo, mine is on 250k+ and she goes strong, drives nicely.
1st issue as mentioned above, 2nd code indicates the blown fuse. EGR itself might not be the issue, short to ground usually indicates open/split wires. Check the EGR and brake light switch wires, rust or damage on them could've overloaded the fuse. The 2 issues could be connected. Also check the earthing points, loose/rusty bolts can cause many issues.
Unfortunately driving isn't recommended till you find what's blown the fuse. Change the parts, clear codes and scan again.

 

[PlasticMac]

110k km is rather low imo, mine is on 250k+ and she goes strong, drives nicely.
1st issue as mentioned above, 2nd code indicates the blown fuse. EGR itself might not be the issue, short to ground usually indicates open/split wires. Check the EGR and brake light switch wires, rust or damage on them could've overloaded the fuse. The 2 issues could be connected. Also check the earthing points, loose/rusty bolts can cause many issues.
Unfortunately driving isn't recommended till you find what's blown the fuse. Change the parts, clear codes and scan again.

I think a blown fuse would give open circuit. Short means the sensor wires are either shorted together, or shorted to earth, such as wires chaffing against metal?
Mac.

 

[Sylvester]

I think a blown fuse would give open circuit. Short means the sensor wires are either shorted together, or shorted to earth, such as wires chaffing against metal?
Mac.

Yes could be as well, I'm not an expert but the open wire could've caused short and blowing the fuse. Even a roden could've chewed on it or so. It definitely needs checking before driving.

 

[Troender]

I will be looking for Potentional wear and tear on the electrical harness, and earth faults.

The problems seem to have appeared at the same time. So there is a connection, somehow.

When I called the workshop at the Audi dealer where I live, and told them about the EPC and the Engine management light, they asked if the car was running normally. When I said I don't notice any problems, they said it's not dangerous to drive. They didn't have time to diagnose until after the summer holidays, so I bought a diagnostic device on my own.

I discovered the bown fuse after the scan. I erased the error codes, and replaced the fuse town a new one. It turned off the lights for some minutts, and then it came back. Blown fuse and all.

 

[Sylvester]

When I said I don't notice any problems, they said it's not dangerous to drive.

No mechanic with commom sense would say that with confidence, as they don't actually know and seen any details, like the blown fuse, driving like that could cause electric fire, that's no joke. Then they'd just say it's not their fault. Yes avoid them.

It turned off the lights for some minutts, and then it came back. Blown fuse and all.

That's a problem, clearly shows it wasn't a one-off. Don't drive the car, and start looking for the damaged wires, earthing points. It might be something small, lose bolt or damaged wire touching something, but it's crucial to the system, it's not like a dirty egr, you'd drive with that for a while, but electrical issues which especially on cars aged around 20 years, must be taken very seriously.

 

[Troender]

Found this old, and closed interresting post:

»Last week I fixed my father's A2, which had a nasty problem.
If you ever have the same problem, hopefully you remember this post, as my fathers dealer has been working on this for a day without finding the solution. ($$)
The EPC and engine MIL were on and fuse 31 melted.

Reading the codes from the ECU:
16955 P0571 Cruise/Brake Switch (A) Circ Malfunction
17809 P1401 EGR Valve Circ Short to Ground
17851 P1443 EGR Valve Position Sensor Signal too low

Fuse 31 is described as being for the EPC.

After some measuring, it turned out to be the PCV heating element.
N79(036 906 391A) The heating element was internally shorted.

The part is not expensive (about 40 euro's) and replacing it is very easy (10 minutes work), but if your dealer wouldn't find it in reasonable time, it could still be an expensive repair.»

 

[Troender]

The post mentioned above was spot on!

It is the crankcase ventilation heating element that was the source of the error messages.

I replaced the brake light switch, and replaced fuse 31. The error messages came back, and the fuse blew.

Then I disconnected the connector on the heating element on the crankcase ventilation, replaced the fuse, and deleted the error messages.

Voila! The car has no error messages and warning lights. Now I just need to find a replacement part and plug it back in before winter comes...