fault p1031
- Thread starter weeda
- Start date
Hi there. I have learnt a lot in this thread, although I confess to finding the tables of VCDS readouts bewildering.
Obviously I have an A2 with a P1031 fault (or I wouldn't be here) and my friendly local mechanic seems concerned that my beloved A2 will shortly become quite the moneypit. I understand him to be telling me that the whole manifold may need to be replaced, and he isn't sure where or if he can even source such a thing. I'm hopeful that he might be a little pessimistic, as from this thread is seems a relatively cheap part and substantial labour is all that is required.
Lacking a VCDS, or substantial tools or time to dismantle the engine bay, can I realistically reach the actuator to carry out the tippex diagnostic? I took off the bonnet earlier today but I'm not entirely sure where to look, and there were lots of cables, pipes and ducts in the way. While I am not entirely useless with mechanics, and I do like a tinker, I can't afford to have the A2 off the road for a prolonged period, so I have to be able to reassemble anything I take apart. What can I reasonably achieve by myself, and failing that, what should I say to my mechanic to gently prod him in the right direction?
Obviously I have an A2 with a P1031 fault (or I wouldn't be here) and my friendly local mechanic seems concerned that my beloved A2 will shortly become quite the moneypit. I understand him to be telling me that the whole manifold may need to be replaced, and he isn't sure where or if he can even source such a thing. I'm hopeful that he might be a little pessimistic, as from this thread is seems a relatively cheap part and substantial labour is all that is required.
Lacking a VCDS, or substantial tools or time to dismantle the engine bay, can I realistically reach the actuator to carry out the tippex diagnostic? I took off the bonnet earlier today but I'm not entirely sure where to look, and there were lots of cables, pipes and ducts in the way. While I am not entirely useless with mechanics, and I do like a tinker, I can't afford to have the A2 off the road for a prolonged period, so I have to be able to reassemble anything I take apart. What can I reasonably achieve by myself, and failing that, what should I say to my mechanic to gently prod him in the right direction?
It's too late to reply fully, will do so tomorrow if needed. Meanwhile read this thread and my post #19 in this thread to answer one query.
Inlet Manifold Help
Hello All, I hope that someone can help me. After a long search for an A2 I finally got one a couple of months ago. All went well to begin with but being an 1.6 I was expecting the engine light to come on. When it did, my local mechanic found out that the previous owner had forgotten (!) to...
www.a2oc.net
Andy
Follow the steps in post #197 and let us know what you find.
PlasticMac
Member
hello everyone I was finally able to take care of the problem a bit, so I cannot dismantle the actuator to see its condition, it is compulsory to dismantle the plastic intake manifold and the aluminum manifold which contains the flaps to get there
-I did the suction test of the engine actuator on and the values are the same as I posted in photos
-I also did the test with the tipex and the rod must move about 10 mm, it is difficult to access so I did not measure
I’m going to disassemble the plastic intake manifold which is easy to do, so I would have access to the aluminum manifold or there are the flaps I could run my fingers to see if something is bothering, or if the joint between the engine and this collector is misplaced, I will take photos
I will not dismantle the aluminum collector with the shutters because it is necessary to disconnect the fuel lines and I do not want to touch this
-I did the suction test of the engine actuator on and the values are the same as I posted in photos
-I also did the test with the tipex and the rod must move about 10 mm, it is difficult to access so I did not measure
I’m going to disassemble the plastic intake manifold which is easy to do, so I would have access to the aluminum manifold or there are the flaps I could run my fingers to see if something is bothering, or if the joint between the engine and this collector is misplaced, I will take photos
I will not dismantle the aluminum collector with the shutters because it is necessary to disconnect the fuel lines and I do not want to touch this
Hi,
Good of you to report back.
As to the 10mm movement of the actuator arm I am reluctant to comment. As I said the 7zap parts diagram for your BAG indicates a difference in the orientation of the vacuum actuator from our A2 BAD vacuum actuator, and maybe the 10mm movement is correct (as opposed to the 15mm of the A2 BAD) , maybe it is wrong for your BAG setup, I simply do not know.
It is good you have a plan of action, "I’m going to disassemble the plastic intake manifold". Our A2 intake manifold is all aluminium so again I am at a loss to comment as your intake sounds different. It sounds as though your upper intake manifold is plastic and there is sufficient room in your golf engine compartment easily to remove it, in which case it sounds a good plan to give some access to the flaps. (Our A2 upper intake manifold is not so easy to remove).
Still have a suspicion of what went wrong when your mechanic reassembled your lower intake manifold.
Andy
Good of you to report back.
As to the 10mm movement of the actuator arm I am reluctant to comment. As I said the 7zap parts diagram for your BAG indicates a difference in the orientation of the vacuum actuator from our A2 BAD vacuum actuator, and maybe the 10mm movement is correct (as opposed to the 15mm of the A2 BAD) , maybe it is wrong for your BAG setup, I simply do not know.
It is good you have a plan of action, "I’m going to disassemble the plastic intake manifold". Our A2 intake manifold is all aluminium so again I am at a loss to comment as your intake sounds different. It sounds as though your upper intake manifold is plastic and there is sufficient room in your golf engine compartment easily to remove it, in which case it sounds a good plan to give some access to the flaps. (Our A2 upper intake manifold is not so easy to remove).
Still have a suspicion of what went wrong when your mechanic reassembled your lower intake manifold.
Andy
So, taking advantage of some good weather (I hope you have all avoided the flooding. My commiserations if not) I have had a look under the bonnet. The actuator arm seems secure; I poked it with a little spanner since I couldn't get my fingers past the fuel pipes and I don't have an appropriate pair fo pliers, and it didn't wobble or give, so I think it's probably intact. When revved up to 3k rpm and down again it flicked up and down reassuringly, and due to a small moulding mark I feel pretty confident that it moved the full 15mm.
I've not removed the vacuum pipe as it seems very secure, and I thought I'd check here for a technique, rather than just applying brute force and ignorance.
The potentiometer insn't accessible without some dissassembly it seems, so I'll have a go at that when I've checked the vacuum (assuming I can get it off without breaking it).
In mechanic news, my local guy tells me that Audi say they no longer make A2 manifolds, and that the flaps on mine have been destroyed. Can this happen? Or have I misunderstood, and this is mechanic talk for "seized beyond reasonable repair"? He mentioned that a manifold could be obtained on the second hand market, but didn't seem all that confident.
Can anyone recommend an experienced A2 mechanic in the NE Leicestershire area?
I've not removed the vacuum pipe as it seems very secure, and I thought I'd check here for a technique, rather than just applying brute force and ignorance.
The potentiometer insn't accessible without some dissassembly it seems, so I'll have a go at that when I've checked the vacuum (assuming I can get it off without breaking it).
In mechanic news, my local guy tells me that Audi say they no longer make A2 manifolds, and that the flaps on mine have been destroyed. Can this happen? Or have I misunderstood, and this is mechanic talk for "seized beyond reasonable repair"? He mentioned that a manifold could be obtained on the second hand market, but didn't seem all that confident.
Can anyone recommend an experienced A2 mechanic in the NE Leicestershire area?
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PlasticMac
Member
Typically, if the manifold flaps are the problem, they'll be seized, partially or completely. The manifold can, usually, be be removed, cleaned and restored to normal operation. Used manifolds come up on here, in the Market too.
Your mechanic's comments are typical, as A2 in general, and FSI in particular, knowledge is not common.
It would be very helpful if you could get VCDS connected, and monitor the potentiometer (and, hopefully the flaps), movement. See @Andrew and @lfield posts in this thread for "how to" info. You can then see what is going on.
Edit: Just a couple of degrees of missing flap spindle rotation (as measured by the potentiometer), will cause a P1031 error.
I'm sure you will get more responses soon. Don't despair, it'll get sorted.
Good luck.
Mac.
Your mechanic's comments are typical, as A2 in general, and FSI in particular, knowledge is not common.
It would be very helpful if you could get VCDS connected, and monitor the potentiometer (and, hopefully the flaps), movement. See @Andrew and @lfield posts in this thread for "how to" info. You can then see what is going on.
Edit: Just a couple of degrees of missing flap spindle rotation (as measured by the potentiometer), will cause a P1031 error.
I'm sure you will get more responses soon. Don't despair, it'll get sorted.
Good luck.
Mac.
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Hi @ornot,
Yes the weather is against us, but some progress. To be honest it is is very difficult to inspect the actuator arm with any level of certainty, so much is hidden, more a case of testing for any blatant breakage and yours has passed this test. Any breakage is likely at the the linkage at the end out of sight end, I have even seen a video by Mr. Broons done with an endoscope and all looks healthy but turned out not to be.
The small rubber pipe to the actuator does just pull off, best with more a wriggle/tug and fingernail at the end if possible but no need to investigate further - your observation the arm moves 15mm with engine running > 3000rpm is sufficient to conclude the actuator is working (and the N316 valve), but might still have a broken linkage.
Next is to look at flap movement as reported by the potentiometer but without VCDS you will have to check with a multimeter described above by lfield. I am not an eclectric man and had better not comment further but its all in a post above somewhere.
More general points.
The mechanics comment sound to me more like they do not want to get involved. I do not think Audi have discontinued the manifold, in fact I am sure a few members have in the last year purchased from Audi, but you do not want this as they are £450!!!! Flaps destroyed sounds over dramatic, but not impossible, but more like they can't be bothered to decoke it and they always like to fit new to offer the guarantee, understandable really.
As to garage you are very fortunate you are quite near, at least on a national scale, to WOM, one of the few leading A2 specialists. They deal with dozens and dozens of A2's, are highly regarded - just read the accolades on here.
My strong advice is contact them and arrange a visit.
Andy
Yes the weather is against us, but some progress. To be honest it is is very difficult to inspect the actuator arm with any level of certainty, so much is hidden, more a case of testing for any blatant breakage and yours has passed this test. Any breakage is likely at the the linkage at the end out of sight end, I have even seen a video by Mr. Broons done with an endoscope and all looks healthy but turned out not to be.
The small rubber pipe to the actuator does just pull off, best with more a wriggle/tug and fingernail at the end if possible but no need to investigate further - your observation the arm moves 15mm with engine running > 3000rpm is sufficient to conclude the actuator is working (and the N316 valve), but might still have a broken linkage.
Next is to look at flap movement as reported by the potentiometer but without VCDS you will have to check with a multimeter described above by lfield. I am not an eclectric man and had better not comment further but its all in a post above somewhere.
More general points.
The mechanics comment sound to me more like they do not want to get involved. I do not think Audi have discontinued the manifold, in fact I am sure a few members have in the last year purchased from Audi, but you do not want this as they are £450!!!! Flaps destroyed sounds over dramatic, but not impossible, but more like they can't be bothered to decoke it and they always like to fit new to offer the guarantee, understandable really.
As to garage you are very fortunate you are quite near, at least on a national scale, to WOM, one of the few leading A2 specialists. They deal with dozens and dozens of A2's, are highly regarded - just read the accolades on here.
My strong advice is contact them and arrange a visit.
Andy
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hello, I was finally able to dismantle my plastic intake manifold, unfortunately I saw nothing special I neither saw nor felt anything either which could slightly hinder the shutters
The car works very well so I will go to the garage before the technical inspection in 6 months
The car works very well so I will go to the garage before the technical inspection in 6 months
katalin21k
New Member
Hi guys,
Same p1031 actuator problem but on vw golf 4 1.6 fsi 81kw engine (BAD). It toked me some time to get access to the actuator rod (cheap plastic) that is down by default cus of the rubber membrane from top and when it needed it pulls up using vacuum to suck. Since is broken and not require so much force to pull the leader up i used superglue and went ok for 2-3 km
I will buy a new one because it sure not much max 20-25 euros but the problem is other is hidden near distribution, i needed to open the plastic cover and the bottom bolt of actuator is hidden there (need to know when new part comes for replacement).
Same p1031 actuator problem but on vw golf 4 1.6 fsi 81kw engine (BAD). It toked me some time to get access to the actuator rod (cheap plastic) that is down by default cus of the rubber membrane from top and when it needed it pulls up using vacuum to suck. Since is broken and not require so much force to pull the leader up i used superglue and went ok for 2-3 km
I will buy a new one because it sure not much max 20-25 euros but the problem is other is hidden near distribution, i needed to open the plastic cover and the bottom bolt of actuator is hidden there (need to know when new part comes for replacement).
PlasticMac
Member
Hi @katalin21k
Welcome to the A2OC. You should check that the flaps (shutters) inside the manifold are moving freely. The actuator rod often breaks because the flaps are seized, so replacing the rod will not fix the problem. Read this thread, for information on checking the flaps. YMy FSI is an A2, not sure about the FSI Golf, but I think you will need to use spanners
Mac..
Welcome to the A2OC. You should check that the flaps (shutters) inside the manifold are moving freely. The actuator rod often breaks because the flaps are seized, so replacing the rod will not fix the problem. Read this thread, for information on checking the flaps. YMy FSI is an A2, not sure about the FSI Golf, but I think you will need to use spanners
Mac..
katalin21k
New Member
Mac they are completely the same Mk4 Golf, Vw Bora, Audi A2 same engine code BAD. Mine is broken to bottom where is connected to the other part of the mechanism, But since is down it should require not much force similar with a vacuum suck force to move up and open. Maybe is because of carbon deposits idk. I've cleared egr yesterday from carbon..2-3 mm thin layer and took me 2 h and still the down part that goes to valves i believe is still with carbon, used a tooth brush and gas and spray it to remove but is a long way down. The Egr flap moves freely now but since the rod is broken no difference (when i glue it worked ok 2-3 km). I think i will get to a person that can create me a metal rod similar to that one and with the bottom part that moves so it won wear the other plastic.
Have got the p1031 fault showing on vcds ( I've only got the unregistered version). There is no eml light on and the car seems to drive OK with no hunting at tick over. The fault only appears on vcds when no throttle, even a gentle revs kept above 1200 or more the fault does not show.
Have checked the rod action and looks good. Next steps advice please, I'm thinking of trying a can of egr cleaner first.
Does anyone know the resistance of the potentiometer to check offline.
Have checked the rod action and looks good. Next steps advice please, I'm thinking of trying a can of egr cleaner first.
Does anyone know the resistance of the potentiometer to check offline.